Zen Mod- yes, as a DIY’er I am very value orriented and sensitive to being price gouged. My Duelund speaker cables I assembled cost me $200 for a sound quality I would have had to spend at least $1500 and probably more. Very surprised how good they sounded paired with the Sonido’s. My USB / IC cables cost $400 /$529. After researching this new company I thought I would give their cables a try since they had a 30 day money back guarantee. The SQ of these cables were just stunning and the largest improvement I have made and they just took the Sonido’s to a completely different level. Worth every $. These are an exceptional value compared to crazy expensive brands. I couldn’t make this level of quality that sound this good for less. (Prototypes, silver connectors, Occ silver/Occ copper hybrid wires, metal sleeves and proprietary expertise) I thought my cables were quite good and didn’t feel they were a high priority but I was wrong. Cables make a huge difference was my education here.
JD- The Duelund/Coherent Tinned Copper with oil impregnated sleeve is a copy of the Vintage Western Acoustic wire not made anymore. I used 12Ga twisted together with a cotton sleeve for internal wiring. Speaker wire was 10Ga twisted with a cotton sleeve and a stretch weave covering for aesthetic's. Such a great realistic tone. Just so life like with excellent bass, mids and clear highs.
I was lucky enuff to get a similar experience. Our member Duo built a couple and i got to live with one for a bit. Every loudspeaker we tried preferred a slightly different setting.
dave
Out of interest what happens when you swap in something like 24g solid copper? https://www.takefiveaudio.com/products/907-neotech-upocc-24-awg-teflon-insulation-cryo-treated/
dave
hear you ........ so, that's what personal tastes are
had exactly that, obsolete, NOS WE wire
was bloody excited like Kiddo in Candy Store...... what later did show as ancient junk
go figure ..... nothing can beat 0.1mm foil, my ears and my brain
All I know is that class D works well with heavily oxidized cable where chloride in the PVC insulator seems to react with the copper after long-term storage. I assume the switching noise helps overcome the stand-off voltage.
I was debugging a prototype class A amplifier that didn't want to connect to the speakers at all, so as a sanity check I used a class D amplifier to check if the speakers were OK, and voila!
I was debugging a prototype class A amplifier that didn't want to connect to the speakers at all, so as a sanity check I used a class D amplifier to check if the speakers were OK, and voila!
Dave and Zen Mod- I initially used 2 twisted strands (per run) of 18 Ga solid OCC copper with silver plating in teflon and they sounded quite good with a tad of harshness on upper mids. Switching to the Duelund expanded the 3D soundstage, removed all minor fatigue and increased how real, engaging and lifelike the music sounds. Significant improvement. I am sure there are better wire like the foil but I feel synergy plays a very important roll in matching the wire to the drivers, speaker cables and cabinet. I am just sharing my experience with Sonido Swr960FC on my system and it is an excellent match. Changing out the cabinet wires is easy so I may try others. What foil wire do you recommend?
Oh I forgot to mention my prior speaker cables were Goertz MI 3 copper ribbon cables and they were a bad match and fatiguing…had to move on from them.
0.1mm thick, no more than that
width to give you mm^2 as you wish
copper or silver, depending of wallet and enthusiasm
easy to make, recipes on several places on web
important is - PTFE tape ditto on both sides of foil, rest is almost irrelevant
now ......... with foil cables/wires, especially if silver, they're veeeery neutral and you can't use them (as many other) to mask deficiencies somewhere else in system
disclaimer - my ears, my brain, my recipes .......... so Absolute Truth
I made a copper pair of those 2 years ago…not sure the thickness but I was following a DIY recipe…it was difficult finding the PTFE tape. They did not sound very good just very average and I ended up disposing of them. My Goertz MI -3’s sounded much better on my Ohm speakers but not on the Sonido’s.
I am not trying to mask, change or color the sound with cables I just want them to perform the opposite. I felt my previous cables caused fatigue. All is good now.
I am not trying to mask, change or color the sound with cables I just want them to perform the opposite. I felt my previous cables caused fatigue. All is good now.