Low harmonic distortion. Linear on-axis. Lots of micro details. Well controlled cone breakup.
It has some issues at 1.4kHz, visible on-axis and impedance.
Purif PTT6.5W04-01A and SBA SB17NBAC rank quite high.
I am going to quote Teachmeaudio.com which did a good job explaining it.
Source: Audio Spectrum Explained - Teach Me Audio
To some, only 500Hz>2kHz qualify.
Source: Audio Spectrum Explained - Teach Me Audio
that's why one need to say so eah time 😉 ... it's not for me, I ask for your search.
for myself the trebles beginn at 2000 hz... mostly because tdays o many drivers do it easily... some years ago it was more 3000 hz, etc.
Sure that 500 hz to 2 Khz will not give you the same list than 250 hz to 2 Khz.
So you're looking for 250 Hz to 4 kHz ? much less choices !. In the drivers world y understanding is mid-woofer is not the same as midrange, hence the precision must be given to the reader to understand... sad world !
for myself the trebles beginn at 2000 hz... mostly because tdays o many drivers do it easily... some years ago it was more 3000 hz, etc.
Sure that 500 hz to 2 Khz will not give you the same list than 250 hz to 2 Khz.
So you're looking for 250 Hz to 4 kHz ? much less choices !. In the drivers world y understanding is mid-woofer is not the same as midrange, hence the precision must be given to the reader to understand... sad world !
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As a clean midrange, I prefer Accuton or Seas metal cones 😎
Paper cones just sound a little bit dull in my ears. FR can be flat - but maybe it's because of the pistonic movement in hard cones, that I like and the softness in paper that sucks up unwantet resonanses, simply "steals" some of the deatils.
Paper cones just sound a little bit dull in my ears. FR can be flat - but maybe it's because of the pistonic movement in hard cones, that I like and the softness in paper that sucks up unwantet resonanses, simply "steals" some of the deatils.
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The "best" speaker doesn't exist at all... There is YOUR favorite one only.
The "best" term is nonsense if the awarded speaker is being discussed out of its neighbors in a loudspeaker.
The sound signature consonance between speakers in loudspeaker is more important, perhaps, than "best of the best" of each separately. The understanding of that becomes with years and experience only.
The "best" term is nonsense if the awarded speaker is being discussed out of its neighbors in a loudspeaker.
The sound signature consonance between speakers in loudspeaker is more important, perhaps, than "best of the best" of each separately. The understanding of that becomes with years and experience only.
I built a 2-way with the SB15NAC30 ported running up to around 2kHz. Midrange is excellent - detailed and clean. For a 5 inch the bass is exceptional. Not quite as clean as for a larger driver, but punchy and deep (legitimately gets into the low 40Hz range).
Based solely on subjective listening, I'd say that covering such a wide range causes some IMD problems, because it sounds very clean with less complicated music (acoustic strings for example) but put on something more busy with loud, low bass, (power metal, more complicated orchestral pieces, etc) and there's definitely a loss of detail and cleanliness.
If it were used just as a midrange in a 3 way, I think it would be an excellent option and a candidate for "best" if we are including performance for the price as a criteria in our definition of best. No doubt Satori, accuton, etc can beat it though if price is not a factor.
Edit: I should also mention that in terms of Hofman's Iron Law, the place this driver sacrifices in my design is in both efficiency and max volume - reaches xmax around 94 dB at resonance (43 Hz I think). And efficiency is around 84 or 86 dB (can't remember which)
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Thanks for the input.
I am planing a 4-way active loudspeaker. My choices so far:
Tweeter: Bliesma T25B-6 (2.5kHz >)
Upper Midrange: SBA 2.5” MD60N-6 (>800Hz-2.5kHz<) (I have not heard this one, but I hope its good)
Upper Bass, lower midrange: SBA SB17NBAC35-4 (>150-800Hz<)
Sub Bass: SBA SB23NRXS45-8 (dual opposing configuration) (>20-150Hz<)
I'm a bit worried that there might be a mismatch between the Be, textile mid and BNAC due to different materials. If the harmonic content between MD60N-6 and SB17NBAC, they might be a nice match.
Only way to find out is to actually test all of them together.
I am planing a 4-way active loudspeaker. My choices so far:
Tweeter: Bliesma T25B-6 (2.5kHz >)
Upper Midrange: SBA 2.5” MD60N-6 (>800Hz-2.5kHz<) (I have not heard this one, but I hope its good)
Upper Bass, lower midrange: SBA SB17NBAC35-4 (>150-800Hz<)
Sub Bass: SBA SB23NRXS45-8 (dual opposing configuration) (>20-150Hz<)
I'm a bit worried that there might be a mismatch between the Be, textile mid and BNAC due to different materials. If the harmonic content between MD60N-6 and SB17NBAC, they might be a nice match.
Only way to find out is to actually test all of them together.
If you're concerned about material mismatch, would it be worth swapping the sb17nbac to their paper cone model to mitigate that?
I paired my sb15nac30 with an sb26stac and it seemed to match well despite material mismatch, for what it's worth.
I paired my sb15nac30 with an sb26stac and it seemed to match well despite material mismatch, for what it's worth.
The thing is, I like hard cone drivers for the midrange and up. So I kinda need to have that to be happy. Dayton RS52 is an Al mid, but it has a 1.7kHz peak which is due to a tiny cone breakup. Might be able to work around it.
The 4" SB12CACS25-4 can be crossed at 2.5kHz, so a candidate.
Why don't you buy Dayton RS52AN and save yourself a lot of money ? If you're goimg active, you don't need the higher sensitivity that is only advantage over RS52AN.
Edit: Your post wasn't here when i started to write.
Edit: Your post wasn't here when i started to write.
I'm not worried about the cost. Anyway, by the time I am ready to work on the loudspeakers - aka buy drivers - I am sure there are some reviews out for the MD60N-6.
I am currently working on my amplifiers for them 🙂
I am currently working on my amplifiers for them 🙂
First of all, my apartment is fairly small, have lots of neighbors and have to limit my low fr output. Besides, 8" sounds fairly nice.
I can always go larger at a later time. Planing to move in a few years anyway.
cost no object : you could swap the the sb17 for the Seas magnesium cone which is excelent below 750 hz- see Mark K tests with the way back web engine and Linkwitz tests about no storage energy.its paper sibling sounds good too if you want smoother uper XO.
edit : if aera is enough to move the speaker a little away fro the front wall - more than 1 meter - there is also a cool ESL kit in Australia that play 150 hz to up and work fine with metal cone sub à la ScanSpeak...
edit : if aera is enough to move the speaker a little away fro the front wall - more than 1 meter - there is also a cool ESL kit in Australia that play 150 hz to up and work fine with metal cone sub à la ScanSpeak...
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It also all depends on context, and how it's being used.
I wouldn't use a 1,5" full-range in as PA-system and a 21" woofer as a small bluetooth speaker.