Solid State Relay for an amplifier mains power switch

Their own ears and brain were enough.
There is also a consensus between those people when listening to each other systems about how they sound. Not 40 differing perceptions with 40 different sounds.


Then there are many people who condescendingly question why we have hi-fi as to them all the notes are in the same order and it all sounds the same. They lack the brain processing. Music might not exist if the human species consisted only of people like that.
 
Wrong. Switches don't have coils. So more BS from the king of it.
You think that people are so dumb they don't know that a simple off / off main switch doesn't have a relay coil. Why did you waste some of your life posting that. You surely must have some better things to do.
You must have terrible gear.
A close pal went though 30 amplifiers, up to about £10,000, they all sounded various shades of different and most sounded better on the super spur than the wall socket. He's had £millions in liquid assets, could have any hi-fi, and is just one of so many people I know who also know that super spurs work for them, plus I expect many many thousands of others. You are the ridiculous one, insulting them all spouting trite puerile retorts, everyone reading them knows it.
 
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Remedy was to make some measurements
Thanks for making the effort. 🙂 I think it's fair to assume that your test equipment is not as good as the human ears and brain at detecting the sonic changes in complex music signal emitting from the speakers during music play.
What is the reason to not reveal this wealth of information to other members?
I don't have any here now. And I don't need or want to. My question is very specific. I don't need anyone attempting to prove that we all can't hear what we so obviously can.


If you can't, and your hi-fi plays a recorded acoustic guitar or female vocal back to you so well there seems a solid image at the end of you room that you can reach out and touch, that they're there are in the room playing to you personally, then very good, my gear was so bad that it needed all that work done to it to make it sound that good.
 
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Are you for real?
A large helping of Snake Oil for me please as I know my amplifier produces a better sound wednesday evenings.
Are you for real, or just a figment of your imagination? I've soldered 15mm and 22mm copper pipe too.


To solder, here's how it done, the short version, clean the joint to be, flux, warm it, ad solder. 🙂 Really fu**ing easy.


Have you never heard your amplifier hum when there's mains noise from neighbours, when they come home in the evening and turn on a hair dryer? Soooo many people have. Just not you. You gear is soooo perfect. Or you aren't.
 
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Hi, I have tried SSR's in a large energy distribution installation and was surprised the leakage of various types is so high that the installation was not to be called safe when switched off. In other words: we had still lethal voltages on stuff in off state. The installation was then rebuilt with ... relays. On the other hand I've seen them used to switch on heaters with no ill effects.
Thank for that. 🙂
BTW soldering of 25 mm2 cables is not standard and certainly not better than crimping.
Others might find to the contrary, I really don't care, as my experience, and that of my degree qualified graduate engineer friends, is that soldering mains plugs on is always better sounding than just crimping with the screws in the plug.

I won't waste my time saying what the changes are. So many of my friends now know this for themselves having done theirs. And one recording studio. He has maybe 50 boxes on racks, state of the art. Tried one lead, was straight away convinced, he masters audio professionally so has great audio processing skills in his brain, far better than most people, and is also a degree educated classical and rock musician.
 
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The thought of DIY SSR's being possibly better than ready made SSR's is somewhat comical
That assumes everyone who makes their own stuff is too stupid to make one!!

And that commercial SSR's are not made to the lowest cost possibly possible.
Mercury switches.
Are / were used to frequently cycle on and off high current commercial deep fat fryers in restaurants and takeaways all over the world.

Durakool Mercury Contactors
Durakool Mercury relays – StartersandContactors.com
 
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IEC and Schuko terminations.
Sometimes it's better sounding to have a captive lead soldered into the equipment and a UK mains plug at the other.
My personal experience with trench mosfets in either speaker or DC rail switching duties has not been positive. As much as i was hoping to use them, it was just not possible.

It is easy to experiment with mosfet power line switches in a country with 110v mains, but for 240v i would expect to use 600v mosfets and these, when low Rdson, quickly get expensive.

Commercial SSRs...forget it, the chances these will be even remotely transparent are nil. If you want to experiment buy suitable mosfets and create your own SSR. Have a look at the Evolve power amps for circuit inspiration.
Excellent. Thanks. 🙂
Unfortunately no relay can get anywhere close to a Shallco attenuator.
I used Shallco 20 years ago. A good bit better than other switches I / we tried, but not nice either. So I soldered two Vishay bulk foils into the amp end of each lead and changed volume by changing leads.
 
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Food appliances would be the last place I would use mercury wetted switches. I’ve only ever seen mercury used in relays for low level signals.
So you have a lack of experience then! That doesn't make the rest of he world wrong just because you don't know something. They're not mercury wetted switches. Go and find out what they are and what they switch (switched) restaurant electric fryers with and why.

There's no mercury leaking out the switch from the industrial mains supply, up and into the food!!! In the UK anyway, the switches, supplies and installations will have originally been designed by engineers, fitted by qualified technicians, then inspected by regulating authorities.
 
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In a radio studio here we had a red "On air" light that lighted up continuously when a microphone was open (as intended) and kept flashing when all microphones were off (not intended at all). It turned out to be due to the built-in RC snubber network of a solid-state relay that drove the lamp. It conducted a few milliamperes when off, which slowly charged the power supply capacitor of the "On air" LED lamp until it reached a high enough voltage to flash. In the end I solved it by connecting the series connection of two 4.7 kohm, 5 W wirewound resistors in parallel with the lamp, that was just enough to keep the voltage below the level where the lamp ignited.
Good info for me. Thanks very much. 🙂


I fitted a 0.3uF appropriately rated capacitor across from the IEC to the transformer, had the same effect, when switched off it carried just enough current to keep a low voltage in the amplifier, which would either play music very very quietly or hum. But the good was the sound quality, the amount of extra treble loudness and apparent better musical communication. Hence a captive lead and no switch or IEC.
 
If I replaced a power cord or power switch and heard a difference in the sound produced by my audio system, my first thought would be that one of the devices (either the original or the replacement) was defective and not operating to specifications.
If examination and measurement of the devices showed that neither was defective then I would assume some other factors confounded the listening tests.
If I continued to hear a difference when replacing only a (non-pathological) power cable or switch, under controlled conditions, then I would NOT conclude that my amplifier was exceptionally revealing, but rather that the amplifier had a defect that made it exceptionally sensitive to power delivery systems. That defect would make the amplifier unuseable to me.

But that's just me.
Yeah, me too. But then when you and you friends have tried dozens of amplifiers and dozens more players, preamps, etc., and they all suffer the same, then maybe yes they are all faulty and need a fundamental paradigm shift in the way they function.


It's beyond me to achieve that, so I have to do what I can and for me and thousands of others with rubbish equipment costing £hundreds or £thousands per box, a super spur works very well. And is usually a lot less costly than a fancy mains regenerator made for hi-fi.
 
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Having read most of the thread, don't even bother with an SSR ....output of an SSR WILL have extra pulses due to the ways SCRs (or TRIACS) turn on and off.
I presumed they would hard on when they're on. Not flickering.
In your case just use a big fat relay to turn on your amp. There will be NO change in waveforms to the amp.
As I said in post 1, been there, fat as I could get, there's probably fatter, I don't know.
zero crossing
Thanks 🙂 Isn't that only when they switch on and ramp up to the working voltage. I was only looking at zero crossing ones. I have lighting wall switches that do that.
If you get 50/60 Hz quirks I would look at the actual diodes in the bridge and add snubbers to clean up the quirks.
🙂 Mostly the amps have some or other standard 35 amp, or so, bridge rectifier with one or a two or four capacitors, 0.1uf or so, but not calculated snubbers. I had an amp recently that was being passed around, that people were finding too lean in the bass and a bit forward, that might have had snubbers. It had more bass and sounded more tonally balanced, more musical, when I plugged in my big cable from the super spur. That used a soft start and mains relay.
 
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Your only choice is to have NO switch, just a straight wire. It's a no brainer. Simply have the amp on continuously and wire it directly, no plug.
I didn't switch the amps off for 10 years. 🙂

But the electricity became more expensive so I needed to switch them off when not is use. And that's most of the time now. In the 1990's they were in use every day and evening.
 
Hi ya IanAS
Hiya 🙂
I am quite concerned
Thanks, no need to be. Some people know what they're doing in that regard 🙂
I employ a soft start of my own design and it does not change my satisfaction with the system sound. Similarly my own design, I use separate solid state relays to protect my speakers and output transistors. These have an Rds(on) of a couple of milliohms compared to the 50milliohm current sense resistors. Again, no discernible insertion effect.
Thanks. Did you try a few of them before finding ones that had no effect or did any do it just as well? What current and type mains switching SSR do you use? I have a old amplifier here from a pal that I'm resorting and that needs a soft start as it's gradually evaporating the mains plug by arcing each time he plugs it in.
 
I think we can all agree that any change in sound must mean that there is a change in the electrical output of the amp (excluding some alien mind control effect ;-).

In this thread, the only thing you are changing is the mains filtering, cabling and switching. So this must then cause some electrical change at the amp output.

A change in the mains cabling etc. can presumably cause a change in the voltage that appears on the supply voltage to the amp. Since changes on the supply are generally attenuated before they have an impact on the amp output, those supply voltage changes must be more than subtle.
They should be measurable.

Has anybody done that, or know of a measurement someone did?

Jan
🙂

I can add that I measured the capacitance of various mains leads, and interconnects, and logged some sonic changes with those. I couldn't measure the inductance and well, that might have been interesting.
Cable length was also found to be a factor. Longer sounder better. It's not what I expected. Someone else found that, of the various people who were testing the effects of mains cables with me in the 1990's onwards.

I wondered if it was the earthing. So made a separate earth soldered to the earth star and direct to the super spur, and just swapped the live and neutral. In that test, which was far from extensive, it did make a little bit of difference but the L & N were still the big deal.

Conductor gauge was a big part of it. And it seemed that there was a filtering effect from some cables that improved the sound in some circumstances.

I know someone who measured and published the time delay in signal prorogation over 5 metre cables and the effect of inductance and capacitance of the signal smearing and time delay.

I'd rather not discuss it here on DIY Audio as every post will be attacked, our intelligence, integrity, scientific method, personality, that of our friends, relatives, etc., will be flamed, ridiculed, belittled, grossly insulted and accused of having a belief system so severe it's obliterates any alacrity or lucidity, which for me at least couldn't be more laughable diametrically polar opposite to the fact, by clueless people with nothing useful to contribute and all that counted as valid technical discussion.
 
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Going to let you guys in a little secret of mine. Enough time has passed and I'm comfortable with this information getting out. Consider yourselves lucky to be reading this.

My power cables are made from 1/2" copper tubing. I have been running a continuous supply of liquid nitrogen through them since 1997. Sure it's been expensive over the years but the sound quality is worth it. You have to use pre war copper tubing due to slight contaminants from atomic bomb testing.
 
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