Hey guys, I have a preamp that I am doing some modifications on, mainly adding some new single ended connectors. However I am having a hell of a time soldering the ground wires to the connectors.
I am by no means a professional but have done my fair share of soldering over the years on PCBs and just wiring in general, this however is obviously something I am not knowledgeable in.
The wiring is bare solid copper. The connectors have a nipple which is slotted for the wiring to slide in to. For starters, I cannot tin the solid copper, it just does not stick. Then when I try and put the wire in the slotted part of the connector, the solder just doesn't flow into the slot and around the wiring.
I am using some form of cardas solder, though i'm not sure exactly which.
What could I be doing wrong? Is there a special method or type of solder to use when working with solid copper and this style of connector? Do I need flux?
Any help or advice would be very greatly appreciated.
I am by no means a professional but have done my fair share of soldering over the years on PCBs and just wiring in general, this however is obviously something I am not knowledgeable in.
The wiring is bare solid copper. The connectors have a nipple which is slotted for the wiring to slide in to. For starters, I cannot tin the solid copper, it just does not stick. Then when I try and put the wire in the slotted part of the connector, the solder just doesn't flow into the slot and around the wiring.
I am using some form of cardas solder, though i'm not sure exactly which.
What could I be doing wrong? Is there a special method or type of solder to use when working with solid copper and this style of connector? Do I need flux?
Any help or advice would be very greatly appreciated.
If the lug is a substantial chunk of metal your soldering iron may simply have inadequate wattage.
Hi, The problem is not enough heating. A common thing with that solder. I prefer a rather high temperature (725F) to use it. At that temperature it flows well and the actual duration of the time heat is applied is short thus preventing damage to components. An iron or soldering station of around 40 watts works well with it. I find that except for small components on PCBs the high temperature smaller irons will not be satisfactory.
The copper wire could have a coating on it. Scrape it with a knife real good and try again and don't be afraid to hold the iron on it a couple of seconds after the solder melts. Allow the flux to do its thing..
Thanks for the advice guys, don't know why I didn't think of that. The iron I have is a 25W weller, guess I will stop and pick up a 40W today in my travels.
I like a hotter iron even with boards. I am using a Weller 40 watt. Much quicker with less time on the components but you need to be quick. I can make a good connection and the component will not even get warm. I believe you are more likely to damage a component with a 25 watt keeping the iron on the part too long trying to get the solder to flow. Much can be said about electric welding. When your rod sticks and does not melt you turn up the heat and then the rod will start flowing.
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For large connections, a little extra flux always helps. I prefer to use paste flux lightly applied with a cotton swab.
Yeah, I use an old 67? W/1 k+ temp Hakko, Stay-Brite flux and silver solder to make quick work of soldering terminal connections or similar and have plenty on tap when I want to solder larger products.
GM
GM
I prefer a hot iron myself. The technique is learning how long to hold the heat to whatever you are connecting..
Silver solder is good but standard Kester "44" works just as well. Doesn't look as Purdy but..
Silver solder is good but standard Kester "44" works just as well. Doesn't look as Purdy but..
I normally set my iron to 290 to 300°C when using 184°C eutectic 63/37 flux cored solder.
When soldering to ground planes, that do not have the slots to increase thermal resistance, I turn up to 320°C to pre-solder the pad and then pass the component lead through and complete the joint while the ground plane is still hot.
Soldering chunky copper/brass (terminals, speaker lugs & 2mm to 3mm copper wire) I go anywhere between 330 and 400°C and even then the thicker part needs some pre-heating and pre-soldering before I bring the thin component/s into contact for the final joint.
When soldering to ground planes, that do not have the slots to increase thermal resistance, I turn up to 320°C to pre-solder the pad and then pass the component lead through and complete the joint while the ground plane is still hot.
Soldering chunky copper/brass (terminals, speaker lugs & 2mm to 3mm copper wire) I go anywhere between 330 and 400°C and even then the thicker part needs some pre-heating and pre-soldering before I bring the thin component/s into contact for the final joint.
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