TNT,
Did you notice any difference with the spidf and the USB ?
Did the short break the AMANERO ? I hope it doesnt !
I find difficult to manage a good isolation : have hassle to manage the thermal tubes on the little pins of the connector I bought ! I work with a thin 50 ohms coax Mogami RG 174 U for the 3 I2S signals as the spidf signal as well! I have the Pulse transformer shown on the links I gave in first page ! I'm little busy in this moment and very slow to avoid the short connections but I believe I can testimonie in one day or two about the spidf SE input via a SqueezeBoX Duet.....
Did you notice any difference with the spidf and the USB ?
Did the short break the AMANERO ? I hope it doesnt !
I find difficult to manage a good isolation : have hassle to manage the thermal tubes on the little pins of the connector I bought ! I work with a thin 50 ohms coax Mogami RG 174 U for the 3 I2S signals as the spidf signal as well! I have the Pulse transformer shown on the links I gave in first page ! I'm little busy in this moment and very slow to avoid the short connections but I believe I can testimonie in one day or two about the spidf SE input via a SqueezeBoX Duet.....
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So I succesfully flashed the Amanero. But still not recognized by the SBT 🙁
I did once a SSH installation with an early version of the Triod mod - wonder if that somehow hang around and mess up things....
/
I did once a SSH installation with an early version of the Triod mod - wonder if that somehow hang around and mess up things....
/
Could members please post some pics showing how they made connectors wiring works for the I2S input to avoid shorts ?
Need some inspiration 🙂 Mini coax cables are hard to use due to the shielding (put some isolation is not easy between the shield and the hot wire of a coax is not easy ! )
Better to use non 50 ohms coax cable but 2 wires tweasted togethers ?
How non 50 ohms links can affect the signal between a I2S board and the input of the DA1201 ?
Giving up the plugs and solder wires on the DAC input vias ?
thanks
Need some inspiration 🙂 Mini coax cables are hard to use due to the shielding (put some isolation is not easy between the shield and the hot wire of a coax is not easy ! )
Better to use non 50 ohms coax cable but 2 wires tweasted togethers ?
How non 50 ohms links can affect the signal between a I2S board and the input of the DA1201 ?
Giving up the plugs and solder wires on the DAC input vias ?
thanks
Good idea and then try to connect the USB out to another dac if you have one. Just to check if the Amanero is the problem. Also try different USB cables.
see here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...magnitude-24-bit-384-khz-106.html#post4201154
Use sufficient flex insulation.
At one point, I connected a Raspberry Pi to my DAC via I2S with short twisted pair wires, it worked fine, I don't think you need 50 ohm coax, but I would try to keep them as short as possible.
Thanks Sébastien and Randy,
I was to sell my board on the SWAPMET... all those connections works are borring me !
So ok, no coax 50 ohms needed if the wire stay short !
Sébastien I already saw your picures : do you use a connector or solder on the pins connector (the last is my understanding as I saw a little melted plastic above the black plug !)
I was to sell my board on the SWAPMET... all those connections works are borring me !
So ok, no coax 50 ohms needed if the wire stay short !
Sébastien I already saw your picures : do you use a connector or solder on the pins connector (the last is my understanding as I saw a little melted plastic above the black plug !)
There are no need for coax, short wires are fine, that what I use.... In principle you might end up with more jitter, but thanks to the input fifo and reclocking on the dam1021 it just doesn't matter....
I soldered some standard cat. 5 ethernet cable straight on to the pins. In twisted pairs. Not much space I agree but with a steady hand and some swearing it's doable.
SBT factory reset, updated FW on Amanero, new install of the USB out applet. No. :-/
When conected to DAM, the green led stops flashing so the DAC sees the SB somehow.
But in Settings/Audio Settings/Digi Out/A+D and AO... nothing more...
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When conected to DAM, the green led stops flashing so the DAC sees the SB somehow.
But in Settings/Audio Settings/Digi Out/A+D and AO... nothing more...
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Have you checked if the USB port works at all? i.e. try to use it the way it was originally intended by connecting a stick or a hard drive w. music files. see if it shows up at all.
Good thinking!
I'll check it. But the DAM is recognizing the USB connected as it stop flashing thelock led once hokked up.
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I'll check it. But the DAM is recognizing the USB connected as it stop flashing thelock led once hokked up.
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No its: USB & SD Storage / Devices / USB Disk: None with a stick attached 🙁
So my SB is faulty.
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So my SB is faulty.
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Has anyone tried using DC power?
My board is on the way and it seems you just "plug" into the proper spots?
I am going to use the A123 batteries - one for 3.3 and two (regulated down) for 5.
Will not be using the buffer so can I ignore the +/- 12 volts? Sure hope so.
Any re-assurance would be appreciated!
My board is on the way and it seems you just "plug" into the proper spots?
I am going to use the A123 batteries - one for 3.3 and two (regulated down) for 5.
Will not be using the buffer so can I ignore the +/- 12 volts? Sure hope so.
Any re-assurance would be appreciated!
I was under the impression that you don't need 3.3 and 5 volt supplies, just the 7-8V AC or 12VDC to run the board...
Du you plan to inject these voltages in J2? Is J2 "south" of any onboard regulation i.e. sees the loads?
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