Soekris' DAC implementations

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I broke my Serial-USB adapter and had to buy a new one. I got this
Ugreen usb adapter
Which is advertised to support "remote wake up and power mangement". Infact it seems to do something like that, as I can listen music with the DAM for say one hour and then change the volume with the serial connetion (a thing that was not possible with my old adapter which was not able to wake the DAM serial port from energy saving mode).
 

I have a couple of TPA Toslink modules that I believe are using the TORX147 (I'll try to confirm that when I get home).

They are indeed working at 192K, but if you look at their output s/pdif signal on an oscilloscope it looks nothing like a square wave. It's more of a distorted triangle / sine thing.

At 96K (and below) the output looks fine.

I wouldn't really trust them with 192K material.
 
I broke my Serial-USB adapter and had to buy a new one. I got this
Ugreen usb adapter
Which is advertised to support "remote wake up and power mangement". Infact it seems to do something like that, as I can listen music with the DAM for say one hour and then change the volume with the serial connetion (a thing that was not possible with my old adapter which was not able to wake the DAM serial port from energy saving mode).

Ohh... That’s so tasty looking one just eager for the next firmware update.
…hang on now… there are several reason for that wish :p

Wondering if PL2303 chip is responsible for how it does power-mangling? I have this on order.
PL2303TA USB TTL to RS232 Converter Serial Cable Module for Win XP Vista 7 8 8 1 | eBay

Where I read that PL2303TA incarnation of this chip are more reliable on Win8.
 
Just to complete the confusion Mouser did actually sell a part called TORX147PL(25M,F,T)
Not sure what the 25M imply as specification and datasheet connected for this item still list 15Mbps.
The PL notation I’ve found are the version with shutter. L version have dummy plug.
TORX147PL(25M,F,T) Toshiba | Mouser

Not sure if anyone have searched for TORX147 over at AliExpress? Lots of hits. Most of them obvious scams. Or used parts painted and tinned. One seller didn’t even bother to use fake pictures, but posted images of the AX device I probably would get in the mail.
 
Ohh... That’s so tasty looking one just eager for the next firmware update.
…hang on now… there are several reason for that wish :p

Wondering if PL2303 chip is responsible for how it does power-mangling? I have this on order.
PL2303TA USB TTL to RS232 Converter Serial Cable Module for Win XP Vista 7 8 8 1 | eBay

Where I read that PL2303TA incarnation of this chip are more reliable on Win8.

The one that you have on order will definitely not work. It has TTL output. You will also need one of these to make it work: Mini RS232 MAX3232 Level to TTL Level Converter Adaptor Module Board 115200BPS | eBay
 
Ohh... That’s so tasty looking one just eager for the next firmware update.
…hang on now… there are several reason for that wish :p

Wondering if PL2303 chip is responsible for how it does power-mangling? I have this on order.
PL2303TA USB TTL to RS232 Converter Serial Cable Module for Win XP Vista 7 8 8 1 | eBay

Where I read that PL2303TA incarnation of this chip are more reliable on Win8.

The one linked by me has a FTDI chipset, which has the advantage, that its driver is already included in the later OS X versions.
 
The one linked by me has a FTDI chipset, which has the advantage, that its driver is already included in the later OS X versions.

Strange. Is Amazon is playing tricks with me? I can’t read much German so I copied the item number from your link and pasted into amazon.co.uk and got the same image as in your listing. But the item declaration differ somewhat doesn’t it?
Ugreen USB to RS232 DB9 Serial Male Converter Adapter: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

edit: UK and German seller is the same. Reading the German listing describe both chips? Are you able to see what driver is loaded when you plug in the cable?
 
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Strange. Is Amazon is playing tricks with me? I can’t read much German so I copied the item number from your link and pasted into amazon.co.uk and got the same image as in your listing. But the item declaration differ somewhat doesn’t it?
Ugreen USB to RS232 DB9 Serial Male Converter Adapter: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

edit: UK and German seller is the same. Reading the German listing describe both chips? Are you able to see what driver is loaded when you plug in the cable?

Mine is a UGREEN GROUP LIMITED 20221, EAN: 6957303822218
and yes my computer reports it as FT232R USB UART, manufacturer FTDI.

I see at amazon.uk that its colour is FTDI :)

P.S. my broken adapter had also an FTDI chipset. It worked fine for 5 min or so after powering the DAM but did not wake up the DAM serial connetion once in energy saving mode .... so that allone is not the criterion
 
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Dam dac

Just wanted to give a 1 month update on the 1020. I use jriver and a sdtrans384 via i2s most of the time. An Amanero usb for the pc. I tried the bnc input for a while with the sdtrans384 and tired of it quickly. Back to the i2s input. No plops with the jriver setting to eliminate it on the pc. Some noise occasionally with the sdtrans384 between tracks. Not a bad sound though. Still on the stock firmware and I think it sounds great!!!!!. 16/44 has a true, clear, pure tone. If the recording is good, good sound, bad =bad. Sonic youth-A thousand leaves is so good. Butthole Surfers-Independent worm saloon has a full, rich drum and bass that wasn't as engaging before. The dac needs time to burn in. Its too simple to sound this good. A pic of Gibby in Seattle years ago.
 

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I haven't tried the clock slave yet. I am in the middle of building 2 Salas sslv ps for the placid so I can't compare now. I like the Dam 1020 very much, maybe more than the buff but when the buffalo as 5 Salas ps powering it it should be very good also. No dropouts when using the electric stove with the Dam. That's a big plus. It will probably be the primary dac in the man cave for that reason alone. Can't cook and listen to the buffalo! Big waf issue.
 
Maybe try typical networking software recovery methods (e.g. power down for 30 seconds before powering it up again)

Sorry not able to help more - even when my transfer froze midway for the filter file the DAC was always perfectly fine and locking on my i2s signal.

I don't believe this is a big problem because I had the same thing happen to me when my serial program (xc) failed to upload the firmware intact causing the port to freeze. Upon power cycle the DAC would not lock to anything at all however I was still able to get into umanager with +++ and reupload the firmware, which using another program (minicom) worked fine.

DAC is working back!
Look like DAC have protection it self when update firmware.
I succeed to connect to DAC with my old USB cable, just with some change in setting, make an update firmware to 0.9 and then the DAC lock the signal as good as brand new!

Here is my some new setting compare with others:
- Set the baurate to 115200, and disable the buffer option in the hardware setting of Window XP
- Use 1KXmodem for transfer instead of Xmodem (I use HyperTerminal on window XP)
- And very important: sometime you do not see anything after you turn on DAC but it really connected, and some time you do not need to type +++ to get into uManager, it get there automatic after I turn on DAC! I do not know why but that is how I connect to Dac.

Lastly, I confirmed that the 5V output of serial USB is good to work with DAC.

Now I am playing with filters, very exciting, huge change in the sound :)

Cheers!
 
So I've been messing around with some mods to the DAM1021... I haven't tried a super low-noise regulated DC yet (next on the list).

I am testing out a simple CLCLC supply with parts I already had lying around (talking really generic stuff... 1N5822 diodes...470uF NHG Panasonic caps...dale dc inductors - didn't even bother with a snubber at this stage). I decided on this because there were already a lot of regulators onboard and thought some pre-filtering may make a difference instead of just putting another regulator on top of things.

There is a slight improvement in clarity (was not expecting this), but I started to notice ringing on some tracks (For robotech/macross fans... the song Voices especially). I thought I fked up this make-shift supply and intended to lug the scope over to the speaker rig to try and see what was wrong this coming weekend... only to find...

That the ringing is actually a part of the track! I just hadn't noticed it as clearly with my other DACs... until I knew where to listen for it (on my headphones setup). I'll pull out the clclc supply again to test this weekend and hope I can get some time with a 5nV noise regulated supply I currently have in my 9018 DAC.

From Nigel and Normund's reports of the 3.3V line (I don't have another supply in, yet) I tried to use the existing LDO on the DAM1021 for the amanero (didn't work) so I could use my existing TPS7A4700 supply to supply the DAM1021. I ended up just putting a 220uF cap to see if could improve things. Well, it "rounded" the sound for me but also made the music more veiled for me (it's just some ELNA cap I have lying around so maybe a better one may make a bigger difference?). Because of how a small cap could make a difference, I'm going to order another TPS7A4700 to supply my two boards.

All that said, the filters still make a bigger, more noticeable difference to me than any of the mods above. I'm not sure it's worth tweaking with hardware mods until we've all "settled" (will we ever?) on the filters...

Anyways, hope to hear more results of experiments from others!
 
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I made a simple circuit to keep a relay powered that has NC contacts shunting the output when the coil is off, the relay only engages when the DAC has a solid LED output (lock) and the input voltage from the +/-12V power supply is good.

End result, no more speaker pops/crackles during sample rate changes , has a good delayed power on function since the DAM takes a bit of time to boot/lock at powerup, and the poweroff PLOP happens after the relay has already shunted the output.

I can do a schematic later but its just a simple rise/falltime config that feeds an NPN darlington that acts as the 12V coil switch and a normal jellybean NPN used to invert the LED output along with some resistors, diodes and a capacitor. I simply power it off one of the legs of DC power input.
 
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