As I said above, after you remove the bottom, you have access to the screws to the top from the INSIDE. You need to go through some cutouts through the PCB to reach the screws for the top lid. There are 4 screws near the corners. You need a hex screwdriver. They are located where the red circled areas are (access from other side).
Are you having the same issue with the clock dropping out?
Are you having the same issue with the clock dropping out?
It’s an easy fix if you are used to working with small surface mount parts. You need a hot air desolder / rework tool. (Hot air pencil). Solder paste. Copper braid and liquid flux and flat chisel tip iron to clean up pads from old solder before installing new part. Good tweezers. Binocular magnifiers or a stereo microscope. Good luck!
You mean since it is open it doesn’t suffer from overheat issue?
Maybe a small heatsink stick on cooling fin may help?
I think the part used may be a questionable fake which is why it doesn’t work well in long term use.
Hi, I also have the same DAC but i got some disconnection in coaxial input. happened a few times and now no longer working. checked with a different source also still not working and say "No Signal". but my USB in is working. any idea what could be the problem is? this cant be the same chip that you mentioned because your coaxial is working without this IC. appreciate your help!
@manjulajay this looks like a problem with the optical cable. Did you try another cable? Also have a look inside the optical connector to make sure there is no dust/dirt inside. All interfaces use this clock chip that was defective but if your DAC works on USB, it's not the clock generator. It seems like a cable/connector issue to me.
@horias2000 I tried a few cables, checked inside, and changed the input device, still the result is same. USB and optical is working perfectly. only the coaxial input give up 