Original:
(Now I am getting messed up here too. Its the SG3524 and SG3525)
As with a lot of things, there are many different choices
available. A good suggestion is to visit the manufactures web site and download as much info as possible. Many datasheets contain a wealth of info as well as a list of typical applications.
A scope is a definite when dealing with circuitry such as this.
(Now I am getting messed up here too. Its the SG3524 and SG3525)
As with a lot of things, there are many different choices
available. A good suggestion is to visit the manufactures web site and download as much info as possible. Many datasheets contain a wealth of info as well as a list of typical applications.
A scope is a definite when dealing with circuitry such as this.
I've to rebuild...
I've to rebuild the sg3524 part..
Now following this schematic as shown on datasheet of 3524...
now i'll rewind the transfromer...
I hope now all will run perfectly...
I was forgetting...
f =1.18/(RT*CT)
where:
RT is in Kohm
CT is in uF
f is in KHz
so if i've done the right calc the 3524 should run around 53Khz right?
Is it a good freq?
I've to rebuild the sg3524 part..
Now following this schematic as shown on datasheet of 3524...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
now i'll rewind the transfromer...
I hope now all will run perfectly...
I was forgetting...
f =1.18/(RT*CT)
where:
RT is in Kohm
CT is in uF
f is in KHz
so if i've done the right calc the 3524 should run around 53Khz right?
Is it a good freq?
Re: I've to rebuild...
That is a good idea. After doing research I decided to forget so many types of controllers and came up with one universal way of controlling the pulse width to the mosfets which doesn't involve much fuss, and how it works is simple.
"A scope is a definite when dealing with circuitry such as this."
The scope makes the process possible.
Here is hoping...
The calculation seems correct to me. You're moving along steadily to get it working.
Symx said:Original:
(Now I am getting messed up here too. Its the SG3524 and SG3525)
As with a lot of things, there are many different choices
available. A good suggestion is to visit the manufactures web site and download as much info as possible. Many datasheets contain a wealth of info as well as a list of typical applications.
That is a good idea. After doing research I decided to forget so many types of controllers and came up with one universal way of controlling the pulse width to the mosfets which doesn't involve much fuss, and how it works is simple.
"A scope is a definite when dealing with circuitry such as this."
The scope makes the process possible.
MaXiZ said:I hope now all will run perfectly...
Here is hoping...
I was forgetting...
f =1.18/(RT*CT)
where:
RT is in Kohm
CT is in uF
f is in KHz
so if i've done the right calc the 3524 should run around 53Khz right?
Is it a good freq?
The calculation seems correct to me. You're moving along steadily to get it working.
sure
I'm working on SMPS from about 1 year. I can't stop now! 🙂
Then where sould i've post my trouble with audio amplifier exactly on the forum? Becouse surely i'll have some problem! 😎
It's nice to see all this help! 🙂 Rellay thanks i've never thought to have all this!Here is hoping...
I need it for my DIY car audio system..You're moving along steadily to get it working.
I'm working on SMPS from about 1 year. I can't stop now! 🙂
Then where sould i've post my trouble with audio amplifier exactly on the forum? Becouse surely i'll have some problem! 😎
Re: sure

My first idea would be that amp questions would go under Solid State. But Car Audio may be appropriate instead. But let's concentrate now on getting the power supply going. You will always have the option of using chip amps later if you like.
It helps to be appreciated.MaXiZ said:I need it for my DIY car audio system..
I'm working on SMPS from about 1 year. I can't stop now! 🙂
Then where sould i've post my trouble with audio amplifier exactly on the forum? Becouse surely i'll have some problem! 😎

My first idea would be that amp questions would go under Solid State. But Car Audio may be appropriate instead. But let's concentrate now on getting the power supply going. You will always have the option of using chip amps later if you like.
Hi Folks
Just moving this to Solid State, as it seems to have absolutely nothing to do with Pass Labs.😉
Just moving this to Solid State, as it seems to have absolutely nothing to do with Pass Labs.😉
Since my tranformer is a little small could i use a 2 enamelled copper wire instead of 6 as i'm using right now?
So i could made more turn for primary/secondary?
So i could made more turn for primary/secondary?
Pinkmouse,
That is cool. We were thinking of of that.
MaXiZ,
Sure, it won't hurt to wind it with more turns of lighter wire for now to try to get some results. Then you can always rewind it later. To find the optimal number of turns for my cores, I did a lot of experimentation.
That is cool. We were thinking of of that.
MaXiZ,
Sure, it won't hurt to wind it with more turns of lighter wire for now to try to get some results. Then you can always rewind it later. To find the optimal number of turns for my cores, I did a lot of experimentation.
I've winded the transformer and now all seems to run correctly except for this..
If i connect the bridge correctly i've no output instead if i connect only half bridge (negative side) all run correctly...
I'm confused...
Why?
If i connect the bridge correctly i've no output instead if i connect only half bridge (negative side) all run correctly...
I'm confused...
Why?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Check your feedback circuit. It seems that your zener diode/diodes in the circuit in series with the diode of the optocoupler are in some way problematic.
What's??? I build the schematic but i don't know the part name! 🙁 Sorry!Check your feedback circuit.
???????????????????????????our zener diode/diodes in the circuit in series with the diode of the optocoupler are in some way problematic.
Ok, try these things instead, on second thought. Make sure your ultrafast bridge is in the circuit correctly. Also check C5 and C8, and C6 and C9 to see if you can tell that any of them are getting hot to the touch. One of them could be in backwards or could be shorting out because of an internal defect.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
What's maybe wrong?
Aseems that it will continue go up on positive side...
And the capacitors is rated at 63V may explode?
You are correct about what can happen if you let the voltage keep rising without disconnecting power. Do you have positive and negative voltage now? You should always have some load connected to the output. I often use 120vac light bulbs for testing purposes. You will need one for each polarity output.
Yes as u can see... +63/-60! Finnally.. i were thinking that i'll never get that result! 🙂Do you have positive and negative voltage now?
(excuse for my poor english 🙄 )
120vac?? But i've dc not ac... anyway how should i connect them?I often use 120vac light bulbs for testing purposes
+/-?? +/0??
Congratultions😎. Just connect wires onto them and solder them across the output capacitors. This way they are in parallel with the capacitors.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Do u mean this??
If so can i say my SMPS is ok an fully ok?
How can i test ho many Ampère did it produce?
If i would connect more than an amplifier should i only sum the voltage of each amplifier or what? 🙂
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