I think the wiring to the secondaries should be B-G-B-G and NOT as marked on the board.
I think the error is that the transformer wiring colours do not match the board markings.
Thank you! and also FREAX,TAURO0221, and Brian for helping with this.

Its ok I would've made the exact same mistake. This should be a lesson to everyone that Color coding is never trustworthy.
Dual voltage regulator circuits make me nervous even at the best of times.
Thanks for sticking it out with me Freax. I'll sleep better tonight🙂
Just curious, did you power this up using a variac?
Or did you hook it up and flip a switch like I did?😱
You see the entire circuit in the picture. Just plugged it in.
Also, heed this advice. It will keep your house from burning down.
Hi,
Also I recommended you to add a fuse just in case. By adding the fuse it will blow it and not the bridge.
Also, there is no need to use a larger bridge. 2A 100V is totally fine for this circuit.
I am curious as to why you are using such a large transformer. 50VA would be more than enough.
I am curious as to why you are using such a large transformer. 50VA would be more than enough.
Also, there is no need to use a larger bridge. 2A 100V is totally fine for this circuit.
I am curious as to why you are using such a large transformer. 50VA would be more than enough.
Same here.
The peak output of that transformer would be enough to weld a metal rod together and pop the tops off those capacitors if anything were to go seriously wrong.
The power consumption of the transformer while idle alone would be enough to make me reconsider using it in this manner.
As I've said before Fusing of the secondary is highly suggested.
Just be careful, you did say earlier that the traces on the PCB were nearly burnt off because of this. Check the capacitors for shorts. (Charge them with a battery and measure it with a voltmeter, if the voltage drops quickly or it doesn't hold a charge at all then you have a shorted capacitor.) And... install a fuse onto the secondary winding.
As I said in the previous post (edited) I would just go back to having a 100VA winding.
The traces on the PCB may not be up to handling more inrush current, basically you've reached the limits of the circuit.
Don't say you weren't warned! 🙂
Also, there is no need to use a larger bridge. 2A 100V is totally fine for this circuit.
I am curious as to why you are using such a large transformer. 50VA would be more than enough.
I Will use a fuse for sure.
Antek was out of stock on any 15v smaller than 200va. I plan to get a 50va in December when they get more. I knew it was way more than I needed but got impatient. I will not be hooking this transformer back up. I'll test and repair the circuits and PATIENTLY wait for a smaller transformer.
Last edited:
I Will use a fuse for sure.
Antek was out of stock on any 15v smaller than 200va. I plan to get a 50va in December when they get more. I knew it was way more than I needed but got impatient.
Well I'm sure it will get reused, 15vAC is a very common voltage for other projects.
I'm going the R-Core route though.
I Will use a fuse for sure.
Antek was out of stock on any 15v smaller than 200va. I plan to get a 50va in December when they get more. I knew it was way more than I needed but got impatient. I will not be hooking this transformer back up. I'll test and repair the circuits and PATIENTLY wait for a smaller transformer.
Power Transformers
I've had great luck lately with Triad Magnetics made toroids, they are more compact and quieter in operation than the Antek, and still not too unreasonably priced even though they are more expensive.
VPT30-5330 Triad Magnetics | 237-1347-ND | DigiKey
Antek has been out of stock repeatedly when I have looked for transformers lately, and have not responded to my queries about when they will again be available, consequently I will avoid them in the future.
VPT30-5330 Triad Magnetics | 237-1347-ND | DigiKey
Antek has been out of stock repeatedly when I have looked for transformers lately, and have not responded to my queries about when they will again be available, consequently I will avoid them in the future.
So, about the fuse. Is a fuse before the transformer sufficient?
I've looked at alot of Gainclone builds and it seems standard to fuse before the trans.
I've looked at alot of Gainclone builds and it seems standard to fuse before the trans.
Last edited:
If you only have one fuse, it should be on the mains power, to protect you from electrocution. Additionally, it could put a fuse after the transformer to protect the circuits, but if it blows, there is generally another problem already.
I would only put one on the primary. A fuse on the secondary is sometimes useful initial testing - but it adds resistance and thus ripple at PS inputs - so its best to remove it after you are comfortable. Only if something is seriously wrong(a short or say a mistake in assembly) would such a fuse blow.
BTW the bridges on the Placids are very definitely appropriately sized for their purpose.
BTW the bridges on the Placids are very definitely appropriately sized for their purpose.
I would only put one on the primary. A fuse on the secondary is sometimes useful initial testing - but it adds resistance and thus ripple at PS inputs - so its best to remove it after you are comfortable. Only if something is seriously wrong(a short or say a mistake in assembly) would such a fuse blow.
BTW the bridges on the Placids are very definitely appropriately sized for their purpose.
Thanks Russ and Brian. I while back I had the TP PS powering a ESP preamp, phono stage, and a sub filter, Basically 8 opamps. I had a 1.5 amp slo blo fuse on the primary. Seemed to work great but I was just guessing on the fuse size. Any thoughts?
This is pretty good guide:
http://www.optifuse.com/PDFs/FuseSelectionGuide_RevA.pdf
You should measure you're actual current draw and adjust your fuse accordingly.
http://www.optifuse.com/PDFs/FuseSelectionGuide_RevA.pdf
You should measure you're actual current draw and adjust your fuse accordingly.
If you only have one fuse, it should be on the mains power, to protect you from electrocution. Additionally, it could put a fuse after the transformer to protect the circuits, but if it blows, there is generally another problem already.
A fuse is not to prevent electrocution. A fuse is there to clear the line in the event of an overcurrent. It is a safety element. And you are correct, it belongs on the mains power. Hot, not neutral.
jn
A fuse is not to prevent electrocution. A fuse is there to clear the line in the event of an overcurrent. It is a safety element. And you are correct, it belongs on the mains power. Hot, not neutral.
jn
"Preventing electrocution" gets the point across though 🙂
"Preventing electrocution" gets the point across though 🙂
Yes, I agree. However, it may mislead some into thinking that it is sufficient in that aspect. Unfortunately, it tends to bypass the actual entity responsible for preventing electrocution, the safety ground. Th only reason I chipped in is because compromising the safety ground is a typical practice when hum is involved. I'd really hate to have somebody believe that if they insert a fuse into the hot line, that they can get rid of the ground and still be safe from electrocution. You did not say that of course, but some may come away with that nonetheless.
It really hit me in the face when the NEC guy explained that a fuse or circuit breaker is NOT there to prevent electrocution. It is ONLY there to protect the wires. Period.
That's why I'm so sensitive to the fuse thingy. Not your fault.
jn
I agree 100%. It is tough to list out the proper way of doing it in every thread it comes up in, but it is probably worth my while to do so.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- More Vendors...
- Twisted Pear
- Smoking Bridges