They interest me 6 as payment and as much as is the total cost in mexico?
excuse my english thanks 😀
excuse my english thanks 😀
"DJK,
do you still have the original 70s Leach article ?"
Right click and save:
http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/papers/lowtim/feb76feb77articles.pdf
do you still have the original 70s Leach article ?"
Right click and save:
http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/papers/lowtim/feb76feb77articles.pdf
Thanks DJK,
the first one on the pdf was the one i desired.
The only one i had in the 80s was the 3d version, i had no idea the Leach amplifier went through so many revisions.
Isnt the internet wonderfull !
(humbly bowing my head for not seeing it on the M.Leach homepage)
the first one on the pdf was the one i desired.
The only one i had in the 80s was the 3d version, i had no idea the Leach amplifier went through so many revisions.
Isnt the internet wonderfull !
(humbly bowing my head for not seeing it on the M.Leach homepage)

Parts
Hi,
I get almost all the parts that I need from my local shop www.el-supply.dk. They are cheap, and I get shipping for free 🙂
I might be interrested in Micas and Bipolar caps from digikey.
I have all the semiconductors I need.
\Jens
Hi,
I get almost all the parts that I need from my local shop www.el-supply.dk. They are cheap, and I get shipping for free 🙂
I might be interrested in Micas and Bipolar caps from digikey.
I have all the semiconductors I need.
\Jens
Jens,
how much are the 15032/15033 at el-supply.dk ?
A search in their online catalogue gives me "Ingen" result.
I cant think of a replacement for these types, any other 50 watt MJE device has horrible current ratings at +100Vce.
There is not enough room on the board to place anything other than a TO220, so a Toshiba 1301/3280 is a no-go.
Overhere the 15032/15033 are extinct, i was thinking of ordering 2 50-device rails for $0.80 the piece from Digikey.
I am interested in Silver Mica's too, lots of 'M
If we are close to the 100 board mark i'll take 2 more boards to reach the number.
how much are the 15032/15033 at el-supply.dk ?
A search in their online catalogue gives me "Ingen" result.
I cant think of a replacement for these types, any other 50 watt MJE device has horrible current ratings at +100Vce.
There is not enough room on the board to place anything other than a TO220, so a Toshiba 1301/3280 is a no-go.
Overhere the 15032/15033 are extinct, i was thinking of ordering 2 50-device rails for $0.80 the piece from Digikey.
I am interested in Silver Mica's too, lots of 'M

If we are close to the 100 board mark i'll take 2 more boards to reach the number.
Jens,
Jacco,
Anyway, may i ask a REALLY STUPID question ?
How is the payment going to be made ? I'm really in the dark about this.
Lucky you.I get almost all the parts that I need from my local shop www.el-supply.dk. They are cheap, and I get shipping for free
I have all the semiconductors I need.
Jacco,
If you are having trouble with these, i'm in deep s**t, literally. I can get some BD243C/244C pcs, also some 15030/31 but hey... they are ... hmm ... not worthy ?I cant think of a replacement for these types, any other 50 watt MJE device has horrible current ratings at +100Vce.
There is not enough room on the board to place anything other than a TO220, so a Toshiba 1301/3280 is a no-go.
I'm not a very rich guy but i'm willing to 🙂"SACRIFICE"🙂 myself into buying more boards (depending on total cost) if that's what it takes to reach those numbers.If we are close to the 100 board mark i'll take 2 more boards to reach the number.
Anyway, may i ask a REALLY STUPID question ?
How is the payment going to be made ? I'm really in the dark about this.
I had to phone them for the transistors, they can get them if you want them, prices are about:
MJE15032/33 = 11 dkkr/pcs
MJL4302/MJL4281 = 55 dkkr/pcs
MPSA42/92 = 3,75 dkkr/pcs
MJE340/350 = 5 dkkr/pcs
\Jens
MJE15032/33 = 11 dkkr/pcs
MJL4302/MJL4281 = 55 dkkr/pcs
MPSA42/92 = 3,75 dkkr/pcs
MJE340/350 = 5 dkkr/pcs
\Jens
JD,
the 15030/15031 are 50 watt devices too, but have a much lower voltage rating than the 32/33.
At 100Vce and above, current capability of these devices is very low, derated there is nothing left to drive the output devices.
I already asked Jens for a quote in Denmark for the MJL devices you desired.
The price Jens posted for the MJE's is 2.5 times the Digikey level. If there is no group effort for these parts i'll order a 50 rail of each from Digikey, and can send you the number you need at Digikey cost.
The MPSA42/92 are 0.09 Euro at Reichelt ( <0.70 Dkkr)
Unless i order them from the US at a lower tag i'll place another order at Reichelt for a substantial number of them.
(if there is not another web deal made)
the 15030/15031 are 50 watt devices too, but have a much lower voltage rating than the 32/33.
At 100Vce and above, current capability of these devices is very low, derated there is nothing left to drive the output devices.
I already asked Jens for a quote in Denmark for the MJL devices you desired.
The price Jens posted for the MJE's is 2.5 times the Digikey level. If there is no group effort for these parts i'll order a 50 rail of each from Digikey, and can send you the number you need at Digikey cost.
The MPSA42/92 are 0.09 Euro at Reichelt ( <0.70 Dkkr)
Unless i order them from the US at a lower tag i'll place another order at Reichelt for a substantial number of them.
(if there is not another web deal made)

Big J. you're a saver.
If i had the resources i would have bought 1000 pcs of whatever and put them to the diy community's disposal at the same price. But i don't have those resources. 🙁
As for the MPSAs i was seriously considering BC546B/556B but now ...
And for the 15030/31 i know they're wherabouts and that they're no good for this.
C.U.
PS
Man you sure edit your posts fast. I can barely keep up with replying.
My hands are starting to hurt typing and syncing with the latest "developments" 🙂
If i had the resources i would have bought 1000 pcs of whatever and put them to the diy community's disposal at the same price. But i don't have those resources. 🙁
As for the MPSAs i was seriously considering BC546B/556B but now ...
And for the 15030/31 i know they're wherabouts and that they're no good for this.
C.U.
PS
Man you sure edit your posts fast. I can barely keep up with replying.
My hands are starting to hurt typing and syncing with the latest "developments" 🙂
Better to save than to be sorry !
My partner refers to me as a "screap" , i call her a "pocketfilling medical specialist mobster" .
(my internet connection at home was "out of order" for nearly 2 weeks, i need to push up my post average, alas i am off to do labor in 5)
(i know i am a re-write nerd, no need to emphasize it !)
As for the 10K caps you need, i am checking JEA capacitors in the US regularly for a package of high voltage caps.
IF so, hopefully get him to send the caps package without insurance value on the box.
That cost me over 30 % taxes for the ones i got from K-Amps.
I have ordered Chevrolet parts from the good USA a couple of times, without a sticker i got them free of import-tax (didnt even have to pay sales tax)
My partner refers to me as a "screap" , i call her a "pocketfilling medical specialist mobster" .
(my internet connection at home was "out of order" for nearly 2 weeks, i need to push up my post average, alas i am off to do labor in 5)
(i know i am a re-write nerd, no need to emphasize it !)
As for the 10K caps you need, i am checking JEA capacitors in the US regularly for a package of high voltage caps.
IF so, hopefully get him to send the caps package without insurance value on the box.
That cost me over 30 % taxes for the ones i got from K-Amps.
I have ordered Chevrolet parts from the good USA a couple of times, without a sticker i got them free of import-tax (didnt even have to pay sales tax)
One of the reasons for making Jens's PCB by hand was that i could modify it to place 2x4700uF instead of one 10K cap.
That was because these caps are pretty lousy (the ones that i can get).
But now, i guess i can live with the better PCB
Hey, what do you know, 4 to go to reach 50.
YEAH

That was because these caps are pretty lousy (the ones that i can get).
But now, i guess i can live with the better PCB

Hey, what do you know, 4 to go to reach 50.
YEAH


I'll look into modding the board so you can fit 2 small caps instad of one big.
What size diameter [mm] should I go for? and what pin distance [mm]
\Jens
What size diameter [mm] should I go for? and what pin distance [mm]
\Jens
ok I added 2 more boards for me. I would like to make a 4 devises version also, but does'nt matter. Besides as Jens says:
"why DIY? becouse it's fun" So 2 more for 50........
By the way I have a little problem with film caps (1u/63V, 1u/100V) Most of the times I use tin foil or polypropylene caps from SCR, WIMA, and others. So Jens what can be the max. available space on the board for C6 and the other 1u film caps?
"why DIY? becouse it's fun" So 2 more for 50........
By the way I have a little problem with film caps (1u/63V, 1u/100V) Most of the times I use tin foil or polypropylene caps from SCR, WIMA, and others. So Jens what can be the max. available space on the board for C6 and the other 1u film caps?
Hmmm, no need for such thing. I'm allready with 4 pcs for the current version.I'll look into modding the board so you can fit 2 small caps instad of one big.
I intended to build the PCB by hand because, well, it was easyer for me (than making an international order).
And since i was going to make it myself (hey, i'm mostly a hardcore diy-er) i said, hey, what the heck, i'll extend it to put 2 4.7K of these cheap lousy caps instead of some EXPENSIVE 10K ones.
But then, i thought, hell no. Why should i put any cheap/cr*p component into such a beautifull design ?
So i came here and signed myself for at least 4pcs of the 6tran version.
I can live with longer times to finish this (to procure all right parts).
PS
I have no problem in modding ANY kind of schematic or PCB or making them myself (of course, PCBs won't look very PRO).
Besides, Jens, What about the following trademark :
Poweres by JRD
I kinda like it. Will make all my friends WTF?
And i, well dudes, you can't get better than this ( by much).😀
legend
JRD - Jens Rasmussen Design
Spirtos,
I initially wanted the 10 transistor version. Initially i would have mounted only 4 MJLs and later, if needed, the rest. It's a great upgrade solution.
You might try the 6pc version but place only 4 transistors.
I wonder if there would be any problems with this solution (except the looks). I can't think of any.
EDIT
OHHHH, now it hit me
THE SIZE !!!
I initially wanted the 10 transistor version. Initially i would have mounted only 4 MJLs and later, if needed, the rest. It's a great upgrade solution.
You might try the 6pc version but place only 4 transistors.
I wonder if there would be any problems with this solution (except the looks). I can't think of any.
EDIT
OHHHH, now it hit me


THE SIZE !!!
you can place 1,2 or 3 pairs of output devices on the board.
The 10-device boards i got from Jens arent that big for a 1-board design with 10 output transistors.
You'll need space for the PS too, i would not place that shoe-fit close to the pcb.
I am using 1000uF/200V Sprague's on the 10 device boards with at least 100k on the chassis bottom, instead of 2 times 10K om the pcb.
The 6-device boards will have the same sprague's too, with 2 times 10k at the PS, and a total of 100uF of MKT,MKC, MKP after the electrolytics.
The 10-device boards i got from Jens arent that big for a 1-board design with 10 output transistors.
You'll need space for the PS too, i would not place that shoe-fit close to the pcb.
I am using 1000uF/200V Sprague's on the 10 device boards with at least 100k on the chassis bottom, instead of 2 times 10K om the pcb.
The 6-device boards will have the same sprague's too, with 2 times 10k at the PS, and a total of 100uF of MKT,MKC, MKP after the electrolytics.
Jacco and Jondoe,
of course you're right, I just don't want to leave unused space,
and of course I don't want to need more.. I prefer "compact " solutions. That's one more reason that I like designs like Jens, as my skills in cad software are very limmited, and my home made boards (I do it for at least 15 years) of course are not in this level
like a pcb by professional manufacturer.
Spiros
of course you're right, I just don't want to leave unused space,
and of course I don't want to need more.. I prefer "compact " solutions. That's one more reason that I like designs like Jens, as my skills in cad software are very limmited, and my home made boards (I do it for at least 15 years) of course are not in this level
like a pcb by professional manufacturer.
Spiros
Man, you've stolen my ideaI am using 1000uF/200V Sprague's on the 10 device boards with at least 100k on the chassis bottom, instead of 2 times 10K on the pcb.


I wanted to do similar stuff but replacing the 1uF/trannie with at least 1000uF. But i guess your ideea is better, somewhat.
My biggest plus is that i have no hindrance from WAF. My enclosure can be whatever it wants to be.


Hm, i see that we're still at 48pcs. I guess i'm not cut for waiting.
imo, the most compact solution for a mono block is to place the pcb upside down with the output section above the transformer.
With a decent toroid you'll need the 6 device space.
Same with a stereo setup; the transformer in the center with both pcb's placed vertical, the toroid between the output device area of both boards.
That way the big capacitors on the board are in front of the toroid.
If you place small caps on the pcb and bigger capacitors at the transformer, you will need the length of the 6-device board for the full powersupply.
If i take the area of 6 devices off the 10 device boards i have i can not see how a powersupply can be placed that makes the chassis volume even smaller.
The only way i see how to build very compact is with twin boards: a front-end board and one or two output boards.
Spirtos, i beat you by 10 years of diy-pcb making, Jens's 10 device Leach boards are marvellous.
Admitted, the mono block chassis for the extended Leach i am making have a volume of 2750 cubic inches, estimated weight till now is 135 Lbs each.
With a decent toroid you'll need the 6 device space.
Same with a stereo setup; the transformer in the center with both pcb's placed vertical, the toroid between the output device area of both boards.
That way the big capacitors on the board are in front of the toroid.
If you place small caps on the pcb and bigger capacitors at the transformer, you will need the length of the 6-device board for the full powersupply.
If i take the area of 6 devices off the 10 device boards i have i can not see how a powersupply can be placed that makes the chassis volume even smaller.
The only way i see how to build very compact is with twin boards: a front-end board and one or two output boards.
Spirtos, i beat you by 10 years of diy-pcb making, Jens's 10 device Leach boards are marvellous.
Admitted, the mono block chassis for the extended Leach i am making have a volume of 2750 cubic inches, estimated weight till now is 135 Lbs each.

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