Because its Vas [compliance] is a tiny 3.91 L, so fairly stiff for even a small driver.
27 L is acoustically way too large except for a small horn, but does allow for a ~14 L tapered TL tuned to ~39 Hz with enough Xmax to handle ~ 100 dB/m/13 W, though recommend just folding it in half rather than a complex folding to get it into a cube.
GM
Kyrk,
It seems like you're running around in circles a bit.
The good folk here have advised you that the 5" driver mentioned earlier won't be much use in a 12" cube. The box is too big for the driver unless you get fancy with horns or quarter-wave resonators.
For a 12" cube, I'd recommend an 8-10" driver. For home use, if you're not looking to throw parties, I'd also recommend sealed boxes, and having some EQ available. A Behringer NX3000D is a good starting point - just fit a silent fan.
FWIW, I don't worry about the simulated curves so much when it comes to home use. The reason is this: the room dominates. Hugely. My room adds over 10dB at 40Hz - you can imagine how much of a mess that makes of any simulated curve.
For outdoor use (my business is in live sound), then the cabinets usually follow what's simulated very nicely.
So, find an 8-10" driver with a reasonable amount of Xmax and sensible T/S parameters, build a sealed box and see how you like it.
If you're near Sheffield, gimme a shout - I have a spare Tannoy TS10 driver sitting in a 27cm cube which I'd let go for cheap.
Chris
It seems like you're running around in circles a bit.
The good folk here have advised you that the 5" driver mentioned earlier won't be much use in a 12" cube. The box is too big for the driver unless you get fancy with horns or quarter-wave resonators.
For a 12" cube, I'd recommend an 8-10" driver. For home use, if you're not looking to throw parties, I'd also recommend sealed boxes, and having some EQ available. A Behringer NX3000D is a good starting point - just fit a silent fan.
FWIW, I don't worry about the simulated curves so much when it comes to home use. The reason is this: the room dominates. Hugely. My room adds over 10dB at 40Hz - you can imagine how much of a mess that makes of any simulated curve.
For outdoor use (my business is in live sound), then the cabinets usually follow what's simulated very nicely.
So, find an 8-10" driver with a reasonable amount of Xmax and sensible T/S parameters, build a sealed box and see how you like it.
If you're near Sheffield, gimme a shout - I have a spare Tannoy TS10 driver sitting in a 27cm cube which I'd let go for cheap.
Chris
Yes, T/S theory 'says' that a driver with a Qts > ~0.403 will have a > Vas net volume [Vb] tuned < Fs, but what I posted originally as a default will perform ~identically in a typical HIFI/HT app.
The TQWT I posted is basically a small box with a big, long vent morphed into a taper for ease of build and a bit of horn loading gain to support the ~39 Hz tuning of a ~57 Hz Fs driver.
GM
So a GRS 8SW-4 8" (GRS 8SW-4 8" Poly Cone Subwoofer 4 Ohm) in a vented/sealed 30ish Liter box is a good idea?
Qts is a bit high - it'd need plenty of stuffing and almost certainly some EQ (as any subwoofer ought to have), but if it'll move enough air to meet your SPL requirements, then yes, it'll be fine in a sealed box.
At this price point, there's only so much you're going to get. What're you going to drive the sub with?
Chris
At this price point, there's only so much you're going to get. What're you going to drive the sub with?
Chris
i just want to make a 2.1 for my computer. For starters I was going to use a TPA3116D2 board ( Bluetooth 4.2 Digital 2.1 Audio Amplifier Board DC 12-24V 100W+50W+50W TPA3116D2 | eBay ) it has a high pass and a variable xover for the sub. If it proves to be really bad i guess i will move up to a dayton audio 2.1 sub that uses the same chip or use two amps one mono and one dual channel. You prefer sealed rather than vented? Why? My problem with big subs is that I am not sure how they are going to fair with the small satellite speakers for the tops probably 2 PS95 dayton audio full range drivers with an rms of 10 w
Given up to 30L to work with, and the fact that you're considering using one of those chip amps that does better into 4 ohms, I'd suggest having a look at DIY subwoofers based on the Dayton DCS205-4 driver. There are quite a few available on the 'net, including my own "Boom Unit" build, at the link below. I use it under my desk as part of my 2.1 computer audio system.
The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : The Boom Unit
Attachments
You have 2 separate volume controls for the sub and tops amps and a master volume control. Other 2 knobs are treble and sub low-pass frequency and the little switch in between the knobs is a 200Hz high pass for the tops.
So all will be fine.
You can even connect 2x 4ohm subwoofers (in parallel makes 2 Ohm) as it is stable down to 1.6 Ohm. You never have to many subwoofers. 😀
One 8" sealed will keep up fine with your little tops when placed in a corner or at least at a wall. Placed in the middle of a big room or Outdoors you might want the 2 subs for maximum bass volume.
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Alright but hwy sealed? I thought vented for subs is better because they go lower this way
Sealed is smaller, sounds better (tighter/cleaner), easier to build (no tuning to get right, no high pass needed), has a rolloff on the low end that compensates for the room gain, so you won't get boomy bass (to much low end).
If you don't need the extra/maximum output on the low end, sealed is the way to go IMO.
Vented looks better in specs (louder is better?) and without room gain involved.
If you don't need the extra/maximum output on the low end, sealed is the way to go IMO.
Vented looks better in specs (louder is better?) and without room gain involved.
What do you mean no high pass needed, why would i want a high pass in my sub?
Anyhow, it's been over a week since my first post, i guess it time for me to order the parts and go forth with the project. Thank you for your help, I will keep you posted about how its going to turn out.
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