I wan to make a 2.1 system, for the sats i have choose the Dayton audio PS95 full range [https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...oint-source-full-range-driver-8-ohm--295-349]. I am having problems with the sub. I dont want something really big so i was looking at the Peerless by Tymphany SDS-135F25CP02-04 5-1/4" [https://www.parts-express.com/peerl...f25cp02-04-5-1-4-paper-cone-woofer--264-1658] will it work out as a sub? I could not find anything better for a sub this small under 30ish dollars.
Hi, by looking at the resonant frequency, which is > 50 Hz, it shows that it's not a speaker to be labeled as a "sub". Probably also the excursion is in the 5 mm range. It depends on the power applied, as the excursion follows the voltage.
I'd pick the driver from the Subwoofer section of PE, you'll see the relevant parameters that makes a sub rather than a woofer.
I'd pick the driver from the Subwoofer section of PE, you'll see the relevant parameters that makes a sub rather than a woofer.
Check this project out. A friend of mine built one and I was very impressed. It does not go down to 20hz but it is strong down to 30hz.
The Triska Sub | Parts Express Project Gallery
The Triska Sub | Parts Express Project Gallery
Hi, by looking at the resonant frequency, which is > 50 Hz, it shows that it's not a speaker to be labeled as a "sub". Probably also the excursion is in the 5 mm range. It depends on the power applied, as the excursion follows the voltage.
I'd pick the driver from the Subwoofer section of PE, you'll see the relevant parameters that makes a sub rather than a woofer.
But it is from the sub section of parts express. If you look at the drivers description it does state that it could be used as a sub. I can see that it's not really a sub but still I don't know what is hold pick. I dot want the sub box to be very big(otherwise I would go for a cheap GRS). Do you want any recommendations?
Check this project out. A friend of mine built one and I was very impressed. It does not go down to 20hz but it is strong down to 30hz.
The Triska Sub | Parts Express Project Gallery
Looks great but, 8' is propably too big for my project.
It cannot bedefined as a sub, sorry.
I mean, I do have a 14 cm -same as 5 1/2 inches- that fulfills as a sub, being in a BR box with a 20 cm (8") passive.
Being stereo, they make a lot of volume.
🙄
So mine has half mass, half linearXmax, higher Fs ( I read 75 Hz from the DS, but should be less...mmmh...mass coupling !? ) and bombs like a sub, sooooo
the SDS-135F25CP02-04 is definitevely a sub
😀
😱
I mean, I do have a 14 cm -same as 5 1/2 inches- that fulfills as a sub, being in a BR box with a 20 cm (8") passive.
Being stereo, they make a lot of volume.
🙄
So mine has half mass, half linearXmax, higher Fs ( I read 75 Hz from the DS, but should be less...mmmh...mass coupling !? ) and bombs like a sub, sooooo
the SDS-135F25CP02-04 is definitevely a sub
😀
😱
It cannot bedefined as a sub, sorry.
I mean, I do have a 14 cm -same as 5 1/2 inches- that fulfills as a sub, being in a BR box with a 20 cm (8") passive.
Being stereo, they make a lot of volume.
🙄
So mine has half mass, half linearXmax, higher Fs ( I read 75 Hz from the DS, but should be less...mmmh...mass coupling !? ) and bombs like a sub, sooooo
the SDS-135F25CP02-04 is definitevely a sub
😀
😱
Roit so it turns out the one I was talking about is a sub. Therefore should i go again and do it. I mean it will have much better base than the deyton audio ps95 alone.
https://www.parts-express.com/peerl...f25cp02-04-5-1-4-paper-cone-woofer--264-1658] will it work out as a sub? I could not find anything better for a sub this small under 30ish dollars.
Bad link: pdf: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1658--tympany-sds-135f25cp02-04-spec-sheet.pdf
Not really, Fs too high even though it advertises 20 Hz capability, so basically only strong mid bass and some upper bass, though probably good enough for bass guitar in some form of TL.........
So, how big can you tolerate? Otherwise a ~3.91 L [net] box tuned to a 57.7 Hz Fs with a 2.5" i.d. x 22.6"/57.4 cm pipe vent.
GM
Bad link: pdf: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1658--tympany-sds-135f25cp02-04-spec-sheet.pdf
Not really, Fs too high even though it advertises 20 Hz capability, so basically only strong mid bass and some upper bass, though probably good enough for bass guitar in some form of TL.........
So, how big can you tolerate? Otherwise a ~3.91 L [net] box tuned to a 57.7 Hz Fs with a 2.5" i.d. x 22.6"/57.4 cm pipe vent.
GM
3.91 L that seems extremely small.In my mind I had something like 30x30x30 cm box so like 27 L.
Depending on your location you might want to look for a second hand car sub. They need relative small boxes and often have a lower impedance or even dual voice coils. I like the older JBL gto804 8" and 1202/4D 12" woofers and they are fine in sealed boxed of 10 and 30 liters.
Maybe the consideration is what "small" means. No way to make a box for a sub real small unless you are creative in how to camouflage it among your furnishings. Only volume but not shape matters.
Going OB with an odd size or location of the baffle - again thinking how to sequester the rear wave in a camouflaged location.
B.
Going OB with an odd size or location of the baffle - again thinking how to sequester the rear wave in a camouflaged location.
B.
Only volume but not shape matters.
Actually, that might not be quite true. Shape might have some impact on the subwoofer's THD vs. Frequency at a particular SPL level, based on some measurements I've taken. It can also impact Fb a bit (if we're talking about a vented subwoofer).
Could you post your controversial findings because they deserve a new thread for discussion....Shape might have some impact on the subwoofer's THD vs. Frequency at a particular SPL level, based on some measurements I've taken. It can also impact Fb a bit (if we're talking about a vented subwoofer).
B.
Maybe the consideration is what "small" means. No way to make a box for a sub real small unless you are creative in how to camouflage it among your furnishings. Only volume but not shape matters.
Going OB with an odd size or location of the baffle - again thinking how to sequester the rear wave in a camouflaged location.
B.
I don't get it. Why 20-30 liters are considered small for a sub 8 inch driver? Most of the consumer subs I see have smaller boxes than what an enclosure design software would have simulate.
For what? It says RTFM in broken english........Check this guide for help: How to Set up a Subwoofer: Connecting AMP to Car
.... JBL gto804 8" and 1202/4D 12" .... sealed boxes of 10 and 30 liters.
I don't get it. Why 20-30 liters are considered small for a sub 8 inch driver? Most of the consumer subs I see have smaller boxes than what an enclosure design software would have simulate.
It depends on the woofer and type of box, how big the box needs to be. A 5" sub won't go loud and/or low; the bigger, the louder and/or lower a driver will play.
Bucket sub
This sub, "invented" by Ed Schilling of The Horn Shoppe and endorsed/promoted by Transcendent Sound, is small, pretty easy to put together (don't be put off by the concrete), sounds good, and has the advantage (for me, at least) of no woodworking. Total cost (without amp), about $75, and it takes about an hour to put together.
lBucket Sub
Discussion threads are here:
Transcendent Sound Forum
Build the FFRSMark 4:20i. plans/parts here!
Hope this helps,
Pete
This sub, "invented" by Ed Schilling of The Horn Shoppe and endorsed/promoted by Transcendent Sound, is small, pretty easy to put together (don't be put off by the concrete), sounds good, and has the advantage (for me, at least) of no woodworking. Total cost (without amp), about $75, and it takes about an hour to put together.
lBucket Sub
Discussion threads are here:
Transcendent Sound Forum
Build the FFRSMark 4:20i. plans/parts here!
Hope this helps,
Pete
Looks great but, 8' is propably too big for my project.
I don't think you will get "Sub" freqs out of anything smaller. Anything smaller will be in the woofer range.
Could you post your controversial findings because they deserve a new thread for discussion.
B.
I don't have enough measurements to come to any firm conclusion on the matter. However, I have noticed that the THD measurements that I'm doing don't quite match what I'd expect to see.
For example, I expect that the use of vents will introduce some even-order distortion (due to the terminations usually being different for each end of the vent) and that odd-order distortion will increase as a driver approaches its excursion limits, and therefore, for the THD of a vented box for example, as frequency drops, I'd expect to see odd-order distortion increase as the driver approaches its maximum excursion point in the passband, then decrease towards Fb, then increase below that, and likewise I'd expect to see an increase in even order distortion as Fb is approaches (as output from the vent increases). However, several measurements I've done of my builds so far suggest that, while I might be correct about what happens around Fb, what happens above Fb doesn't match my expectations. Something else is impacting the "distortion profile" in that region.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Subwoofers
- Small sub