I've got a couple of pairs of Scanspeak driver here and they all measure different to the Scanspeak datasheets. Mine are well run-in and always warmed up with pink noise before taking measurements. I have a WT2, WT3 and a DATS V2.
Warming or not warming also makes a difference-> higher Qts -> need for bigger box. There is an interesting paper from PHL Audio about this....
Trouble is "low level"/ small signal is too low to give realistic TS params measurements, but question is also what is the correct level ( in Volts) to make a realistic TS measurement? 10mV, 100mV, 1V, 10V?
As said, you can take this the usual and useless theoretical way, or the more useful empirical one, forgetting about sims and build a cheap prototype and test the real thing in real conditions. Best for me, simply wait before applying veneer...
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Warming or not warming also makes a difference-> higher Qts -> need for bigger box. There is an interesting paper from PHL Audio about this....
That's why I warm them up.
Trouble is "low level"/ small signal is too low to give realistic TS params measurements, but question is also what is the correct level ( in Volts) to make a realistic TS measurement? 10mV, 100mV, 1V, 10V?
Other drivers from different manufacturers that I've measured have pretty much matched the datasheets. It's only Scanspeak that are a long way off.
Other drivers from different manufacturers that I've measured have pretty much matched the datasheets
Almost none of the drivers i have measured match the data sheets (100s). But the boxes built from the factory data almost always work as planned.
dave
Almost none of the drivers i have measured match the data sheets (100s). But the boxes built from the factory data almost always work as planned.
dave
Some one also wrote a paper on this... Higher Cms makes higher Qts, but also lower Vas, so that things evenly come together.
But some guys also manipulate their data. Consistently build from batch to batch a 5' driver with a Fs of 30Hz ( that is with extremely soft spiders) is not easy, hence possible issues with all parameters badly derailing. And similar issues with magnets.
SS drivers, at least the Revelator line, "always" have much higher qts than specified.
Another example: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?35407-SS-26W-test-data
Another example: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?35407-SS-26W-test-data
SS drivers, at least the Revelator line, "always" have much higher qts than specified.
Another example: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?35407-SS-26W-test-data
T/S paranoia...😀
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That's a big difference. I'm sure those two boxes will sound very different. I use mine in closed boxes calculated with sdl2112's numbers. Works fine that way.
If t/s don't matter, why publish them at all?
If t/s don't matter, why publish them at all?
That's a big difference. I'm sure those two boxes will sound very different.
😱 If it works +/- the same, why should it sound so different?
Buff, it seems that T/S params are definitely more dangerous that ACME stuff...😀

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Ha. These drivers are nearly identical. The K01 just has a smaller magnet. 🙂
The 83dB, 24L vas,0.41 Qts 15w-8530k01
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8530k01.pdf
The 85dB, 24L vas, Qts 0.31 15w-8531k00
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8531k00.pdf
8530 means shiny coated cone, 8531 means uncoated matt finish. K00 and K01 describe magnet size which is more significant for bass tuning.
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/carrera
You'd just make the port smaller for the K01, wouldn't you? Or lose it altogether, or line it with felt. And take the tweeter down 2dB. Not rocket science. 😀
The 83dB, 24L vas,0.41 Qts 15w-8530k01
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8530k01.pdf
The 85dB, 24L vas, Qts 0.31 15w-8531k00
http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8531k00.pdf
8530 means shiny coated cone, 8531 means uncoated matt finish. K00 and K01 describe magnet size which is more significant for bass tuning.
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/carrera
You'd just make the port smaller for the K01, wouldn't you? Or lose it altogether, or line it with felt. And take the tweeter down 2dB. Not rocket science. 😀
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If t/s don't matter, why publish them at all?
It's not that they don't matter. It's simply that this stuff is not intended to be used as an accountant balancing his books...
Firstly I think SS is a very proffesional company who do not try or want to cheet with T/S parameters.
Secondly I have listend some to the SA Pandion 2, which uses the 15W-85xxxxx.
It might be a littel different from the two suggested units, but probably not by much.
My 2 cent is; go for sort of same volume as that Pandion (surely not less) and go for vented (only go for closed if your intention is to use a sub).
With a vent, and enough power, it is simply amazing how much good bass this unit can produce ... and still keeping the mid really detailed and sweet.
/Baldin
Secondly I have listend some to the SA Pandion 2, which uses the 15W-85xxxxx.
It might be a littel different from the two suggested units, but probably not by much.
My 2 cent is; go for sort of same volume as that Pandion (surely not less) and go for vented (only go for closed if your intention is to use a sub).
With a vent, and enough power, it is simply amazing how much good bass this unit can produce ... and still keeping the mid really detailed and sweet.
/Baldin
Yes SS15W is probably the ideal driver, goes deep while retaining a sweet midrange. Could be crossed to more or less any tweeter. 🙂
Got those exact drivers sitting on the table in front of me. Undoped/large magnet. Anyone used with HDS tweet?

Got those exact drivers sitting on the table in front of me. Undoped/large magnet. Anyone used with HDS tweet?
That's what I call "speaker porn" Sir! Gorgeous and yet I'm very envious of your stuff right now.
Got those exact drivers sitting on the table in front of me. Undoped/large magnet. Anyone used with HDS tweet?
I haven't used the 15W8531K00 but have used the 18W8531G00 with the Peerless 810921 and SS D2608/913000. Very nice match and I imagine the 15W would have similar sonics to the 18W. The Peerless worked better than the SS 970000 I used previously but maybe it was just more suitable for the xo type. I had a look and the 15W is not a drop into the xo I used.
The Peerless tweeter does take some work due to the rising response, but a simple zobel (3uF + 5R6) works a treat in an AR series xo.
Got those exact drivers sitting on the table in front of me. Undoped/large magnet. Anyone used with HDS tweet?
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Hi Bill,
You got an enclosure in mind? Most of the designs I have found are mostly between 10-15 liters, sealed and bass reflex boxes...
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