what does damping mean, then?
Does it help that my room is practically almost high-end echo dead?
Does it help that my room is practically almost high-end echo dead?
In that context he meant damping as opposed to boosting, that is, cutting.
I think for a closed box or BR a deadish room is considered best......Not for my beloved OB though haha....
I think for a closed box or BR a deadish room is considered best......Not for my beloved OB though haha....
Last edited:
In that context he meant damping as opposed to boosting, that is, cutting.
I think for a closed box or BR a deadish room is considered best......Not for by beloved OB though haha....
you and your ob's...
Yeah.....boxes are history man![]()
How come that's the state of your mind when thinking of speakers? (boxed)
The conversion took a while....I jest, I'm not totally anti them, I like TL's, I have a Jordan VTL I built with a removable back panel so I could make it into an OB. I use it both ways. On it's own as a TL, and with subs when OB. Variety is the spice of life they say. I really like the open spacious sound of OB though it's not to everyone's taste.
mmm, no I wouldn't say precise, it depends what you mean, I would say a closed box is probably more precise. It's hard to describe.....OB is probably best for reproduction of acoustic or live recordings where ambiance and realistic soundscape is more important.
If you have the space to let them be out in the room, an OB will fill that room with the most life-like representation. Problem is...me included, we don't have a large room that is as wide as it is long to do that. So we make a compromise (on most speaker designs) to put smaller speakers in a box (sealed or ported) so we can use them in a much smaller room, in a much smaller package, much closer to boundaries all while getting really good reproduction. OB are nice, I just don't have the room for them myself.
Soo back to the Tangos.. Can someone help me get dimensions on the placement positions of the drivers? c:
Yes, space is the bottom line. Mainly distance from walls, my room is only 12ft by 15ft, I just about get away with it and listened at lowish volumes which helps.
The beauty is they are easy and cheap to experiment with if you are interested as to how they sound
Eh? What? I was miles away.................................................
The beauty is they are easy and cheap to experiment with if you are interested as to how they sound
Eh? What? I was miles away.................................................
I didn't mean the boxes. I meant the speaker drivers inside the cabinets. How do I lay out the front panel? 😛
But now that I think of it, Dayton Audio knows of the 'wearing in' of the driver and they sell replacement diagphrams for about 25 bucks a piece which is a good price for something you won't replace every year.
https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=11381
Yeah, the crux of the matter is every room is acoustically different and everybody hears the same, yet not so much and some of the worst measuring speakers pretty much owns the world's consumer market, so go figure.
Bottom line to my way of thinking is you either accept JB's choice or use the silk and tweak it if need be to mimic the alum. as a potentially safer choice than maybe needing to tweak the alum. IOW, between boosting, damping an audio signal, the latter is always the better choice.
GM
But now that I think of it, Dayton Audio knows of the 'wearing in' of the driver and they sell replacement diagphrams for about 25 bucks a piece which is a good price for something you won't replace every year.
https://loudspeakerfreaks.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=11381
Not to continue your torture - having built Paul Carmody's "Core 2-way" https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/core-2-way which uses the same components, I think you will be happy you waited, the combination is very, very good, with remarkable bass and the tweeter is quite good at twice the price.
He also shows a XO for the "A" and "F" versions of that tweeter. So you can decide yourself if you want the "F" now, or "A" later, but I really like the larger cabinet - that 7" woofer has a lot of low-end grunt in a bigger box.
He also shows a XO for the "A" and "F" versions of that tweeter. So you can decide yourself if you want the "F" now, or "A" later, but I really like the larger cabinet - that 7" woofer has a lot of low-end grunt in a bigger box.
So you're saying my Tangos are worse than the Core 2Way design by Paul? 😛 jk
I do see though that if I were to ever want to convert my bookshelves into a floorstander, that paul's got the line.
I do see though that if I were to ever want to convert my bookshelves into a floorstander, that paul's got the line.
[urgent] Slot ported version of The Tango
Not at all... just different. I tried them in a smaller box but went back to the floor-stander. I missed the bass!
Not at all... just different. I tried them in a smaller box but went back to the floor-stander. I missed the bass!
Not at all... just different. I tried them in a smaller box but went back to the floor-stander. I missed the bass!
Good to know. Now I know what to make next year.
Soo back to the Tangos.. Can someone help me get dimensions on the placement positions of the drivers? c:
Sure. Are you going to rebate them?
Sure. Are you going to rebate them?
I can get the hole sizes myself. I just need to know the centre point positions haha
Gotcha. Well I can do it from the driver sizes and an accurate estimate of their positions from the available pictures on-line, I can't find anything giving their exact positions but it's not going to need to be millimetre perfect. Is that ok, or do you want to wait to see if someone knows their exact position, maybe Bullitts knows, he seems to be familiar with them?
Well the spacing between the tweeter and woofer defines the phasing stuff so that's important and some of that is the same on the tangos as on the core2's
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Slot ported version of The Tango