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I honestly doubt it's worth chasing the now obsolete/faked C-grade parts. Greg is the expert and he may feel otherwise but I don't think it will make a difference to the sound or reliability to use B-grade parts that are readily available. I'm willing to bet Greg a beer, mostly because I expect he'd be a hoot to have a beer with :-0
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Joined 2009
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I'm having real issues with my build. I have been over and over the boards. I have measured every resistor at least 5 times. Checked the orientation of all the electros and transistors. I just went through and replaced the small transistors for the third time. I matched all of them as closely as possible and still I cannot get the amp to power up. I have it running through a light bulb and the amp will only come up to 3.8V on the positive rail and 4v on the negative. R10 is dropping almost almost 3V. I've run out of places to look so I am posting some pictures in hope that one of you eagle eyes will see something I am not. Thanks
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/croppedclose_zps76ca50e1.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/backlet_zps5b6538b7.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/backright_zpsd6768c89.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/foilside_zps9dbf66b7.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/slantedleft_zps2f3a3f0b.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/frontright_zpsb7c2d412.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/front_zps83cd85f3.jpg)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/upperleft_zps62a5d47f.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/upperright_zps3f6be535.jpg)
![](https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/still4given/SKA%20GB150/slantedright_zpsd551350c.jpg)
What does that mean and how do I check for that. I have measured the outputs with and ohm meter and diode test and they seem to read fine. Tell me how to check and I will be happy to.Chances you have blown your output stages upper and lower 70%
Thanks, Terry
I'm hoping that you're not using BCs in there, right? The correct parts for Q1 to Q4 is Q1 are 2SC2240BL/2SA970BL or compatible.
What about D5 and D6? You haven't installed those.
Do
I assume BC's are OK except for pinout? Or are there other changes to Jim's version to allow the change from BC's?
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Joined 2009
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There shouldn't be 3V across R10, if you are measuring this kind of drop you have 3mA flowing through the current source whereas it should be more like 1/2 mA - at least in my version that is what I would expect.
If the power rails won't come up - too much voltage drop across the bulb or too much current draw by the amp.
As Paulo says, maybe you have the bias pot adjusted to full-open-throttle which is encouraging the output devices to suck a lot of current and pull the rails down through the voltage drop across the series bulb.
If the power rails won't come up - too much voltage drop across the bulb or too much current draw by the amp.
As Paulo says, maybe you have the bias pot adjusted to full-open-throttle which is encouraging the output devices to suck a lot of current and pull the rails down through the voltage drop across the series bulb.
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