R1 and R14 are Vishay VAR, 100R and 47K respectively. C3 is Obligatto Premium Gold 0.1uF, C4 is Mundorf MCap ZN KP (?) polypropylene film and tin foil 2.2uF. (Both were on sale in the "bargain basement" at PartsConnexion.)
Mouser just got some Wima MKP4 4.7uF back in stock, so C2x will be those. I ordered a pair of Hammond 56VA 36V transformers. They were out of 470uF Nichicon KZ, so I ordered some FG's.
All parts are still on sale (20%) at Partscon till end of this month. I just received all missing parts and already installed them. 100R Vishay VAR is still on back-order and should have a pare in 2 weeks or so.
My C3 and C4, both, are Mundorf Supreme SIO.
I guess I can start testing without 100R load.
Salas, what do you think?
My C3 and C4, both, are Mundorf Supreme SIO.
I guess I can start testing without 100R load.
Salas, what do you think?
Attachments
Excellent builds. Of course you may start testing for your quirky spec cart. 220R position should be indicative.
Screw terminals give good "gas-tight" joints.
Excellent for music transmission.
It's wide spaced (not close coupled) wires/traces/terminals that can pick up interference.
Excellent for music transmission.
It's wide spaced (not close coupled) wires/traces/terminals that can pick up interference.
He has lots of tests to do because he does not know the real output of his cart, the company gives a vague spec over a huge range of loads. He may end up changing gain. So connectors come handy. He can solder wires directly in the end. Me I had no problems by using similar connectors in the proto BTW. They did not loosen till recently I checked.
Have you done the LEDS cap C8 and coax substitution tests on yours by now? Any better?
Screw terminals are ok if you terminate the wires properly with Cable End Sleeves like those from WBT or others less expensive.
Just terminate the cables and screw them tight..
Hi Salas,
in the pcb-Guide you recommend using red LED for the LED-chains.
Why is that? What is against yellow oder green ones?
Greetings uLf
in the pcb-Guide you recommend using red LED for the LED-chains.
Why is that? What is against yellow oder green ones?
Greetings uLf
Aha, great - thanks.
I thought that i read some time ago that the noise was different
when using different-coloured LEDs. And to my mind the yellow
ones where the ones with lowest noise. Any ideas about that?
Greetings ULf
I thought that i read some time ago that the noise was different
when using different-coloured LEDs. And to my mind the yellow
ones where the ones with lowest noise. Any ideas about that?
Greetings ULf
Red Leds and yellow Leds are generally safer bets for low noise, still it differs a bit in manufacturers. C8 filters enough nonetheless.
I'll take that under advisement; the ZN's were expensive enough! Meanwhile I think I'll build with what I have and see how it sounds. Your advice is always appreciated though.
If the order was irreversible OK. Dry Supreme and ZN did not differ for price significantly on that vendor though.
They did when I bought them about a month ago. They had a few ZN's with short leads (not too short, but I assume they had been used) in their bargain basement; they were about $10/unit less.