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V1.2R the most influential cap is C1, if you can afford use teflon film & foil, I very good combo I am using is an Auricap 1uF bypassed with a FT-3 0.1uF Russian teflon film & aluminum foil, simply amazing....
Hi,
and thanks for all those ideas.
I´ll first order some 15nF Caps and measure them to find a pair at exact 15nF.
Then i´ll try the new regulator. Any recommendations on selected bjt´s?
What hfe and what idss at the 2sk170 ?
Did you stick with Pana FC at C2 position?
Greetings Ulf
P.S. Will i need a bigger heatsink for 1.2r or will my copperplate
5mm*135mm*210mm be enough?
and thanks for all those ideas.
I´ll first order some 15nF Caps and measure them to find a pair at exact 15nF.
Then i´ll try the new regulator. Any recommendations on selected bjt´s?
What hfe and what idss at the 2sk170 ?
Did you stick with Pana FC at C2 position?
Greetings Ulf
P.S. Will i need a bigger heatsink for 1.2r or will my copperplate
5mm*135mm*210mm be enough?
Hi,
and thanks for all those ideas.
I´ll first order some 15nF caps and measure them to find a pair at exact 15nF.
Then i´ll try the new regulator. Any recommendations on selected bjt´s?
What hfe and what idss at the 2sk170 ?
Did you stick with Pana FC at C2 position?
Greetings Ulf
P.S. Will i need a bigger heatsink for 1.2r or will my copperplate
5mm*135mm*210mm be enough?
You can buy 15nF & 47nF for RIAA teflon film & aluminum foil here:
Surplus USA Film Capacitors Teflon Polycarbonate Polyester Polypropylene
Ask Mark matched pairs for RIAA e-mail:marko@33audio.com
About mosfets & semis use exact as per schematics don't need any kind of selection hfe & Idss.
Yes C2 Pana FC 63V because Salas designed with it.
About heatsink I'm using one for each mosfet like this:
Digi-Key - HS276-ND (Manufacturer - 529802B00000)
Cheers
Felipe
Hi Salas,
well thats really funny to read because my sense while listening was
opposite to yours concerning the sound of wimas (well my experience
with cap-comparison where at my friends system). Wimas where
allways the ones with open more fluent and detailed sound. I never
thought that there must be so much of synergy within the system.....
By the way, what are your system components you compared the caps
with? My friend system is Audioplan contrast (heavily moddified), LA-
audio pushpull 6550, and LA audio pre-clone with e83cc. DAC is PSaudio.
Greetings Ulf
My system is DIY. DCB1 was driving my KT88 triode amp (own design), either from my NJFET phono or my Benchmark DAC1 (upgraded for internal signal caps) during those cap tests. Was listening comparing to DC coupling and each cap type by changing outputs. Bird on a wire track from famous blue raincoat. I wanted to use my FKP1 blue caps in a build that is why I set up some comparison to decide over stuff I had stashed, wasn't prejudiced against. But I got underwhelmed. That is just anecdotal experience since you asked, don't get affected. If it works for you with Wima, no worries. Just bypass those output Wima with FT2, to see if it changes anything to your better liking, just for fun.
Hi Salas,
okay, ill do the bypass and then listen. On the other hand, i found a pair of
those green russian pios in my box, I could try these as well. Unfortunately
they are quite big and i really tried to keep everything close on my pcb.
@ all anyone has some ideas how to arrange the v1.2r ptp on solderstripboard
to get maximum performance and no oscillation ?
Gruss Ulf
okay, ill do the bypass and then listen. On the other hand, i found a pair of
those green russian pios in my box, I could try these as well. Unfortunately
they are quite big and i really tried to keep everything close on my pcb.
@ all anyone has some ideas how to arrange the v1.2r ptp on solderstripboard
to get maximum performance and no oscillation ?
Gruss Ulf
Keep short the base resistors for mosfets Q1 & Q5, care special attention to layout & ground, use teflon cap for C1 or try bypassing C1 with FT-3 or FT-2 russian teflon 0.1uF & let us know.
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You may recall I had some problems with resonance and brightness with my boozhoundlabs/Le Pacific phono preamp. While constructing one for an audio club member I realised, in mine, I had used the equiv. of a 0.0034uf cap where a 0.034 cap should be.
Once the paid job is finished and tested I will replace the errant caps. Here is Martin's build so far.
Once the paid job is finished and tested I will replace the errant caps. Here is Martin's build so far.
Attachments
had the BOM and schematic specified 34nF and the components marked as 33nF + 1nF, the mistake would probably never occur.I had used the equiv. of a 0.0034uf cap where a 0.034 cap should be.
I really have to take the blame here for not being more carefull. I'm usually spot on with my values but on this build I buggered two.had the BOM and schematic specified 34nF and the components marked as 33nF + 1nF, the mistake would probably never occur.
Old resistors
It's been a while since I posted here, been lurking, though! I ran my Salas for a while, but ran out of time to play with it. Needs some serious updating; much has progressed here since 2008.
Just wondering if anyone has used old-school wire-wound precision resistors. Are they suitable for my Salas phono stage? Shallcross, IRC, etc. I've got a box full. Pic attached.
Fly not a resistive element! 😀
-Kent
It's been a while since I posted here, been lurking, though! I ran my Salas for a while, but ran out of time to play with it. Needs some serious updating; much has progressed here since 2008.
Just wondering if anyone has used old-school wire-wound precision resistors. Are they suitable for my Salas phono stage? Shallcross, IRC, etc. I've got a box full. Pic attached.
Fly not a resistive element! 😀
-Kent
Attachments
I don't remember anyone reporting about having used such parts. If some are wound in a non inductive manner and you can tackle the layout nicely due to their bulk considerations, why not. The cart load resistor and the series in Riaa filter one are the most detectable, you may try on those even on your existing phono and decide if they are doing something positive.
Ok. I might give them a spin.
In my 1960 parts catalog, only IRC is represented. Nowhere in their WW precision resistor data do they mention the word "inductive".
Any way to find out if they are non-inductive wound? Like giving them some DC and see if it moves a compass?
In my 1960 parts catalog, only IRC is represented. Nowhere in their WW precision resistor data do they mention the word "inductive".
Any way to find out if they are non-inductive wound? Like giving them some DC and see if it moves a compass?
LCR bridge. Even if bifilar there can be some uH due to not perfect cancellation of the windings. Don't use them between the source pins and grounds for degeneration at least where is local feedback.
hello
i`ve received 2sk170 are but they are GR.i`ve selected them in a few pairs with idss from 3.5ma to 6.2ma.on the schematic of Simplistic RIAA i saw i need BL`s with idss 8-8.5ma.what should i do so i can use three of the pairs of GR`s i have ?
i`ve received 2sk170 are but they are GR.i`ve selected them in a few pairs with idss from 3.5ma to 6.2ma.on the schematic of Simplistic RIAA i saw i need BL`s with idss 8-8.5ma.what should i do so i can use three of the pairs of GR`s i have ?
LCR bridge.
Duh! 😱 I have an old Leeds & Northrup bridge. Will check.
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