What does this have to do with the pcb being final or not and its dimensions for Pete's round up pdf?
MM listening impressions
The first impression when powering up the Simplistic with its shunt PSU was stunning. Very detailed music with amazing dynamics and a dark as night background. It made a false start because the reproduction was dark, too much to ignore. This could easily be cured by experimenting with the loading of the MM cartridge. For now I settled on 47K and 82pF giving natural tone by ear. More can be obtained still, glad to have build an experimental setup with ample acces to parts.
If you might consider building Salas creation I'd suggest to go all the way for components. Even the output coupling cap (3u3) I used lifted up some veil when bypassed with 10nF MKP1837.
I've listened a few days to my old acquaintance, the Philips 601 and I must admit that reproduction is very good, even on my 'not-so-special plastic eighties' turntable. In the loud passages (especially vocal S-sounds) there is a resonance problem giving somewhat distortion. Today a Stanton 881S arrived which will be playing within half an hour. A new Tonar elliptical needle is fitted, hope it plays on par with the original.
What I recon as a big plus from starters is the improvement in dynamics. Playing Eric Claptons 461 Ocean Boulevard there's a drum interval between #2 and #3 sounding very energetic and natural, hard to achieve on digital format.
Keep you informed 🙂
The first impression when powering up the Simplistic with its shunt PSU was stunning. Very detailed music with amazing dynamics and a dark as night background. It made a false start because the reproduction was dark, too much to ignore. This could easily be cured by experimenting with the loading of the MM cartridge. For now I settled on 47K and 82pF giving natural tone by ear. More can be obtained still, glad to have build an experimental setup with ample acces to parts.
If you might consider building Salas creation I'd suggest to go all the way for components. Even the output coupling cap (3u3) I used lifted up some veil when bypassed with 10nF MKP1837.
I've listened a few days to my old acquaintance, the Philips 601 and I must admit that reproduction is very good, even on my 'not-so-special plastic eighties' turntable. In the loud passages (especially vocal S-sounds) there is a resonance problem giving somewhat distortion. Today a Stanton 881S arrived which will be playing within half an hour. A new Tonar elliptical needle is fitted, hope it plays on par with the original.
What I recon as a big plus from starters is the improvement in dynamics. Playing Eric Claptons 461 Ocean Boulevard there's a drum interval between #2 and #3 sounding very energetic and natural, hard to achieve on digital format.
Keep you informed 🙂
If you don't get where you want to with the 881s, I would suggest a cheap high output MC like Denon 110 for best value for money results. The Stanton optimally needs a Shibata (pompous Greek marketing word ''Stereohedron''=monkey name for it). And its costly. Consider using the Stanton stylus shell brush with 1 extra gram on down force and anti skating, it will dynamically control the arm and maybe help with resonance on sibilance. The extra gram is offset by the brush. Strong sibilance can also be due to geometrical mistracking. Check with a protractor.
The phono is capable of much much more. Have listened to it up with Euro 10k cart and 30k TT in its MC version, when I tested it in a no holds system of someone I know.
The TT quality is crucial for resolution and dynamics too. But the key is to have a tonally correct reproduction first of all, and that can be achieved if careful with arm-cart set up and correct loading. But even with the most humble set up, the phono quality is the real barrier so to clearly know the abilities and limitations of the mechanical front end. Lesser phono will degrade the result, will not work in a synergistic manner. The Simplistic has 2 faces. One is the easy to put together, honest sounding little thing, and the other is the responsive ear opener which promotes the spending for better parts and front end.
Waiting to know your news with the Stanton.
The phono is capable of much much more. Have listened to it up with Euro 10k cart and 30k TT in its MC version, when I tested it in a no holds system of someone I know.
The TT quality is crucial for resolution and dynamics too. But the key is to have a tonally correct reproduction first of all, and that can be achieved if careful with arm-cart set up and correct loading. But even with the most humble set up, the phono quality is the real barrier so to clearly know the abilities and limitations of the mechanical front end. Lesser phono will degrade the result, will not work in a synergistic manner. The Simplistic has 2 faces. One is the easy to put together, honest sounding little thing, and the other is the responsive ear opener which promotes the spending for better parts and front end.
Waiting to know your news with the Stanton.Hi Salas, Hoping to build one too. Any recommendation of critical components to use for good tone, etc to save me experimentation?
Tham said:
Use Russian FT-2 or FT-3 for the 100nF stage couplers, Obbligato Gold for output and 47nF in RIAA filter, 15nF PP+1nF Russian Silver Mica for the other Riaa cap, for resistors, use all Dale if you want more focus or all Takman if you want more warmth. Best is all Shinkoh but rare and expensive. At least use a Shinkoh for your input load and first series resistor in the mix if you can find them.
Thanks Salas for the help. I actually put one together p2p last night with standard parts (mylar caps for RIAA and normal resistors). Will be able to listen to it once I have the psu done.
Just completed the phono stage and power in up with a v2...not enough gain for Supex 909 which has 0.2mV output. Anything I can do to increase the gain further?
Strap your best quality 1000uF cap across the first stage source degeneration resistor. Its plus side up. Can even be a 10V cap. That will add 100mV RMS to your total output. +5db in your situation. What is the gain of your pre, main amp, and what is the sensitivity of your speakers?
Attachments
Should that be a really good cap? Sometimes you can find oscon caps on old computer motherboards, would those be good in that position?
I have used such.😀 6V ones. Good, but a BG NP alone or a Nichicon Muse NP bypassed with Teflon are audibly better by the inverse order I referenced them. 😉 Note, its not degrading the result, its interesting how it manipulates tone.