Simplistic NJFET RIAA

diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Did I get it right?

PE to enclosure.
Umbilical from PE to TT ground.
Rail- to phono enclosure standoff. One channel (or two for a nice ground loop?)

PE to PSU enclosure.
No umbilical chassis connection between the two enclosures or PE.
Rail GND to phono enclosure standoff. One for each channel. There are loop breaking resistors on the Raw PCB.
Back panel TT ground post linked to the same or another nearby standoff since your back panel is wooden.
 
I replaced TT cable with coaxial wires and clicks started as soon as I connected TT GND wire to its post. I almost give way to despair and I tried last thing - ferrite. Noise almost gone after 3-4 loops of TT cable on it. I still hear some clicks at max volume but it is 10% from what I got without ferrite.
So, it is RF. I hear perfect AM mail voice when I connect 1 signal lead and its return is in air. It's amplified when I touch second signal lead with my finger which also is in air.
I can leave it as is now and it's almost quite, but I think make sense to install 20pF cap to RCA mail connector, just between signal and return soldering leads. What do you think?
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100% RF. Proff via test! :).
I do not know if any AM transmission station near to my house, but Micron is about 1 km far. It is hard to imagine the amount of all kind of RF coming from semiconductor fab. I'm there and I know... 1000 RF generators for plasma and etc., small ones and big units with size of my house...
Have you see ever any images on internet related to RF blocking implementation with these tiny caps? I always tried to figure out how to install these caps nicely. Image will help a lot. Thank you very much.
 
Your cables probably already have more than 20pF through the insulation.

The fact that a ferrite cures the problem tells me that one of the appliances is probably acting like a capacitor to safety ground, and the other like an inductor to safety ground, and forming one big tuned antenna. That's my theory anyways. The CMC is probably not a bad solution, really.
 
15,937 posts and finally some color. :rofl:
I finally was able to box them up. Separates are the way to go, I'd like to see the transformer at least 12" away.
Don't ask about the wooden panel.
I am not sure what I see of your fuse installation.

The Live lead from the IEC socket should go to the end tag of the fuse holder.
The side tag of the fuse holder then goes to the transformer.
Those two wires to the fuse can also be twisted, or at least looped, to reduce interference.
 
I know which one you mean. Don't trust it for messing with mains panels. Unsafe. For very small capacitor values accuracy you normally need a competent LCR meter. I don't know how that DMM will do in that area. At least it should be consistent in absolute error so you can match caps. An affordable meter that does quite alright in the nF scale (after using the delta button) in comparison to my DER-EE LCR is my UT61E.

I can always send the amazon sourced one back if the UT61E is a better unit....
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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UT61E is fast responding, 22k counts, has bar graph, has pc logging. Not very good stability in long term voltage calibration, not good high energy safety. But a good low capacitance range. UT139E is a safer model more rounded in futures, has temp, has backlight, acceptable lower capacitance range. 6k counts. No pc logging. Slower but not too slow. Vici is slow, very unsafe, I doubt it can read bellow 100 pF. If you want a rugged safe all round accurate compact meter that will last invest on a Brymen BM257s.