I urbano63 well done !
how many Km of internal signal wire ?😀
perdonami non ho resistito!
usa anche un alberino di prolunga per il pot, tenendo i cavi corti puoi anche evitare i coassiali che hanno un'elevata capacita e metti il phono vicino agli ingressi
Ciao nicoch, ho ricablato.
Now is better ? The longest signal wire is now about 20 cm (from the JC2 clone to output RCA)
Now the last change that I have to do is replace the 10K pot (economic) with an alps or noble
Attachments
look good ,a lot better
what do the lateal cap on wood ?
se proprio dovessi trovare un difetto, sarebbero quei condensatori ,colla a caldo e fissali sopra agli altri ...se sono bypass quei fili annullano il fine , se e' segnale peggio pure....
comunque ottimo ! 🙂
Ps the back panel is not the only side to put connector😉
what do the lateal cap on wood ?
se proprio dovessi trovare un difetto, sarebbero quei condensatori ,colla a caldo e fissali sopra agli altri ...se sono bypass quei fili annullano il fine , se e' segnale peggio pure....
comunque ottimo ! 🙂
Ps the back panel is not the only side to put connector😉
Last edited:
Teflon bypasses over the Mylar caps? Alas, the long wire inductance will work against the principle to an extent.
Iko-Rcruz
OB GALLERY http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123512&highlight=supravox
PS a tube set 45 plus b200-aminence
plus Salas phono/shunt ......
OB GALLERY http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123512&highlight=supravox
PS a tube set 45 plus b200-aminence
plus Salas phono/shunt ......Attachments
Last edited:
Yes, Teflon bypasses over the Mylar caps.
Now I have learned something new: long wire is bad.
What is better: paste the bypass caps on the output capacitors or remove the bypass completely ?
nicoch:
Ac in signal zone is not good but i have no hum.
PS:
Salas, can i ask you a help for a tube amp?
the problem is not AC ,I mean that is better to put out the diode in that zone ,radiate a lot , also one channel is very near, to much at last for me....after will sound better? I dont know!
all the two....
all the two....
Last edited:
Pm me tomorrow. I can help on a few general questions. Not some debugging or designing.
Luca,
Although the regulator almost separates the power supply from the amplifier, it does its job still better when it's offered clean, smooth DC. Placing a big (10000uF) elco behind the rectifier bridge introduces nasty voltage spikes 100 times per second each time two diodes are switching off the heavy current needed to load the big elco. I made three filters with relative small caps to filter out ripple and common mode noise. Background is blissfully black.
Here's a shot of my Simple RIAA which was made from inexpensive parts (besides the first two tantalum resistors). I won't boast on success -I'm an amateur like most- but this RIAA sample really sings. The Russian teflons are suspicious to suffer from loose windings, so I tried to fix them tight. Even grounded their case 🙂
The toroid on the right is close to the power supply, the whole is about 20cm apart from the amplifier circuit. I can't hear any 50Hz coming from the transformer or 100Hz coming from the PS. The wires from the regulator are as short as I could make them, taking the power straight to the spot where it's needed. Some like to see thicker wires between PS and reg (right Iko?) but I do not achieve any sonic difference from it.
Last week I relubricated the Dual 505/2 and fixed the platter which wasn't mounted flat. What a difference this made. Hifi-world mentions the Dual ULM arm as a bad match to moving coil cartridges but the Denon DL160 sounds awfully good on my bog standard deck. From memory I don't recall my former Gyrodeck with OL arm and Dynavector 1.7mkII on the PhonoDude with Lundahl step ups being on the same reproduction level.
PS If you look for a simple cost effective tube amp, try the RH84. It's big fun 😀
Although the regulator almost separates the power supply from the amplifier, it does its job still better when it's offered clean, smooth DC. Placing a big (10000uF) elco behind the rectifier bridge introduces nasty voltage spikes 100 times per second each time two diodes are switching off the heavy current needed to load the big elco. I made three filters with relative small caps to filter out ripple and common mode noise. Background is blissfully black.
Here's a shot of my Simple RIAA which was made from inexpensive parts (besides the first two tantalum resistors). I won't boast on success -I'm an amateur like most- but this RIAA sample really sings. The Russian teflons are suspicious to suffer from loose windings, so I tried to fix them tight. Even grounded their case 🙂
The toroid on the right is close to the power supply, the whole is about 20cm apart from the amplifier circuit. I can't hear any 50Hz coming from the transformer or 100Hz coming from the PS. The wires from the regulator are as short as I could make them, taking the power straight to the spot where it's needed. Some like to see thicker wires between PS and reg (right Iko?) but I do not achieve any sonic difference from it.
Last week I relubricated the Dual 505/2 and fixed the platter which wasn't mounted flat. What a difference this made. Hifi-world mentions the Dual ULM arm as a bad match to moving coil cartridges but the Denon DL160 sounds awfully good on my bog standard deck. From memory I don't recall my former Gyrodeck with OL arm and Dynavector 1.7mkII on the PhonoDude with Lundahl step ups being on the same reproduction level.
PS If you look for a simple cost effective tube amp, try the RH84. It's big fun 😀
Attachments
Jaap thanks for the explanation. I learned something more. But I think that now I cannot change the 10000uF capacitor with 3 smaller filter unless i redo all over again.
The RH84 is interesting but I have already built an amplifier. If I cannot get it to work i sell the parts to build the RH84
The RH84 is interesting but I have already built an amplifier. If I cannot get it to work i sell the parts to build the RH84
Urbano
with all that work ..... one day if you want ,take off diode/caps and put at ac side input in rcrc style ,input r charge slow the fist caps
the R mod can do now 😉
with all that work ..... one day if you want ,take off diode/caps and put at ac side input in rcrc style ,input r charge slow the fist caps
the R mod can do now 😉
Last edited:
If I understand I could:
remove the diodes from where they are now, mounting them on a separate board near the transformer (it is at 2 meters away in a separate box), after the diode mounting an R (1 ohm ?) followed by one capacitor (4700uF ?) then go with the wires to the shunt, instead of the diodes were put another R (1 ohm ?) that feed the 10000uF capacitor.
I tried to measure one RIAA channel: without load after the cap i got 36VDC. The RIAA + shunt absorbe 68mA.
yes live in place the 10kµf ,here the wire from psu ,
diode- 1r- 47000 or smaller -10ohm or smaller if you have to much drop ,better in the psu as he heat a bit.....3w
diode- 1r- 47000 or smaller -10ohm or smaller if you have to much drop ,better in the psu as he heat a bit.....3w
Last edited:
Just replaced all 220u Ruby ZA on the riaa second stage by 330u BG.
Althou I lost the magnificent detail and "snap" I got a much more pleasant presentation with presence in the bass. It is burning nicely and I believe it will provide a smooth integration between bass and trebble.
Ricardo
Althou I lost the magnificent detail and "snap" I got a much more pleasant presentation with presence in the bass. It is burning nicely and I believe it will provide a smooth integration between bass and trebble.
Ricardo
No
I have some but I did not try them.
Normally I tend to follow general oppinion in order to save time so I was wandering if Silmic would be a good BG replacement.
Maybe I must learn by hands on approach 🙂
I have some but I did not try them.
Normally I tend to follow general oppinion in order to save time so I was wandering if Silmic would be a good BG replacement.
Maybe I must learn by hands on approach 🙂
Just replaced the output wires inside the riaa from branded silver to mogami coax.
Noticeable lower noise due to the screening !!!
Much better overall equilibrium, loosing some high freq frontalness I noticed after replacing the zeners on the shunts.
Now I have a real work of art 🙂
Ricardo
PS
When I touch the FT-3 or the cccp silver micas, I can hear big hum... should I connect those to earth ?
Noticeable lower noise due to the screening !!!
Much better overall equilibrium, loosing some high freq frontalness I noticed after replacing the zeners on the shunts.
Now I have a real work of art 🙂
Ricardo
PS
When I touch the FT-3 or the cccp silver micas, I can hear big hum... should I connect those to earth ?