AndrewT,
Merry X'mas.....I will slowly chew through and learn the info you provided with many thanks.....but even before that, I do not think I will put my amp in the oven for warm up....Q4 Q5 should last long after me....not to mention my amp... 🙂 thankyou...
Merry X'mas.....I will slowly chew through and learn the info you provided with many thanks.....but even before that, I do not think I will put my amp in the oven for warm up....Q4 Q5 should last long after me....not to mention my amp... 🙂 thankyou...
Put that bugger together in less than 24 hours, including sleep, two bouts of shopping, visitors, etc.
If I can put it together so quick, with no smoke or fire, the project qualifies as beginner I say.
The IRF840 puts off some heat!
Now the tube pre to go with it I am sure will take some time, even on a piece of wood as above. I have not worked with a tube in 10 years.
If I can put it together so quick, with no smoke or fire, the project qualifies as beginner I say.
The IRF840 puts off some heat!
Now the tube pre to go with it I am sure will take some time, even on a piece of wood as above. I have not worked with a tube in 10 years.
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Found a series of photos in my email today when I casually checked well after Christmas dinner. Was from Tea-Bag with no comments, only a title word: Works.
Thanks Mike, good surprise! Merry Christmas to you and to everybody.
Congratulations Mike, will be a new GB for pcbs?
Merry Christmas for all diyers
Felipe
That's the idea, but I would prefer a few more builds before we set the gerber in stone. There are a few extra boards traveling the globe. The KSAs are not really warm after running forever, but that is in a cold basement. The easiest to work with, if needed, are the clip on TO-220 one's, kinda makes it look like a shield in front of the cap.
Some of the wrap around HS seem to crowd out the component below. I have a number of different one's I tried.
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Mini-sinks should not touch each other in any circumstance. Post #2079 had a link with enough narrow width and short depth types for TO-126 transistors. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...tic-mosfet-hv-shunt-regs-208.html#post2806454
you mean IRF840 need a bigger sink than Q1??.....do you think a 20V drop enough for the board to work smoothly...or need a 50V drop better??
20V drop OK. More is just heat. IRF840 surely needs a much bigger sink than Q1. Watch other guys photos.
referring to post 2174...the sink he used on his Q1...is it big enough?? if not I may have to rework the board a bit....
How much current do you need for your application? Add around 30mA to set the current on your regulator. If more than 50mA then I think you will need a little bigger sink on Q1.
I tested until 100mA and Q1 sink was getting warm enough. Not good for long term reliability, especially if inside a box.
I tested until 100mA and Q1 sink was getting warm enough. Not good for long term reliability, especially if inside a box.
I am using only one SSHV2 at the moment to feed both channels...each channel with a CCS (C4S) set at 20mA loading the tube....looking only at these figures = 40mA....not counting heat and other things.... +30mA for the SSHV2....I don't know if I have missed anything else...