jacco vermeulen said:
imo, smaller capacitors in parallel are a better choice for class AB amplifiers.
I was talking about the importance of total amount of capacitance.
About paralleling capacitors , I prefer to use only one.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=840774#post840774
Jorge,
your DIY name already says you're a purist, no need to add links.
You probably dislike trikes as well.
your DIY name already says you're a purist, no need to add links.
You probably dislike trikes as well.

Shinobiwan,
That's an impressive power suppy. By the way, did you compare the SKA to Hypex UCD?
That's an impressive power suppy. By the way, did you compare the SKA to Hypex UCD?
ctviggen said:Shinobiwan,
That's an impressive power suppy. By the way, did you compare the SKA to Hypex UCD?
Thanks but all credit to BMM for the supplies, they are very good in terms of noise and ripple.
I haven't directly compared the SKA to the UcD, I could arrange to do so given enough time since the UcD700AD's are only a 20 minute drive away at a friends. I did compare the UcD's to the AKSA's though and preferred the 55N+ but the UcD has some strong qualities all of its own especially in bass grip and overall clarity. However I prefer the SKA to the AKSA so that probably means that I'll prefer it to the UcD's. Its all about tastes when your taking about amps that are this good and their isn't an average one among them. We're spoilt for choice when it comes to great DIY amps these days.
Thanks for the info. I asked because I'm thinking of building/buying an Orion speaker set up, so I'd need 4 channels of amplification for each speaker. I was originally thinking of buying UCD modules, as these would be easy to build. For me, with an EE degree, the electronics is not too hard -- once some stumbling blocks are hurdled, as I'm used to 5 volts, not 110/220 -- but it's getting the cases, connectors, transformers, etc. that's the hard part. I'm the one who bought your Aksa 55 by the way. I'm thinking of buying a UCD and a SKA and performing a comparison on full range speakers. I'd select the best to order for the Orions and the second best for my second system and I'd sell the third best. I could also mix and match (say, UCD on bass drivers, SKA on high driver and mid driver) for the Orions, but then gain of the amps could be problematic.
ctviggen said:I'm the one who bought your Aksa 55 by the way.
I didn't realise that you bought the 55N+ from Josh, its on the way and should arrive in a week or two I expect. I'm sure you'll like it very much and you get to compare and hear the differences between the SKA and the AKSA.
Hi Shin,
the 2mF to 3mF gets you in the ballpark.
I think there is some leaway even outside these recommendations, so precision is not important.
Japjag,
sounds like your ribbons will seem like normal speakers as far as the amp is concerned, particularly since the transformer is on the other side of the crossover from the amp terminals.
There should be no problem letting GB150 do it's thing.
the 2mF to 3mF gets you in the ballpark.
I think there is some leaway even outside these recommendations, so precision is not important.
Japjag,
sounds like your ribbons will seem like normal speakers as far as the amp is concerned, particularly since the transformer is on the other side of the crossover from the amp terminals.
There should be no problem letting GB150 do it's thing.
Tube_Dude said:I was talking about the importance of total amount of capacitance.
About paralleling capacitors , I prefer to use only one.
Hi Jorge,
Do you mean only one cap, from the rectifier diodes to the final circuit?
It doesn't seem practical.
Do you mean you use, say, a 10,000uF cap on the output stage of the amp, nothing more?
Your post is confusing me, because any cap that you use on the final circuit is already in parallel with the main PSU cap(s).
Hi ShinOBIWAN ,
Out of fairness to Hugh Dean, I wouldn't keep writing how you like the SKA 150 watt amp better than the AKSA 55 watt. It's not a level playing ground.
Best regards,
Al
Out of fairness to Hugh Dean, I wouldn't keep writing how you like the SKA 150 watt amp better than the AKSA 55 watt. It's not a level playing ground.
Best regards,
Al
I think we should rename this thread "Power supplies - Listening impressions" 😀
Let's talk about Greg's amp with "his" power supply.
By inference, are we all suggesting that Greg can design good amps but can't design a simple PSU? Come on.
Has anyone built a SKA with the Greg Ball PSU and done AB tests with other "as designed" amps?
regards
Let's talk about Greg's amp with "his" power supply.
By inference, are we all suggesting that Greg can design good amps but can't design a simple PSU? Come on.
Has anyone built a SKA with the Greg Ball PSU and done AB tests with other "as designed" amps?
regards
AAK said:Hi ShinOBIWAN ,
Out of fairness to Hugh Dean, I wouldn't keep writing how you like the SKA 150 watt amp better than the AKSA 55 watt. It's not a level playing ground.
Best regards,
Al
My opinion, as with all subjective opinions on here, means little. Nobody know which is the better for them until they've heard each. Some may even find the SKA to sound noticeably inferior. There's going to be people that prefer the N+ to the SKA and vice versa, Hugh has already said that there's enough room for another kitset. The AKSA can stand on its own and I've already said that the AKSA is an awesome amp. I really don't think you can go wrong with one.
I respect Hugh and I'm sure that a little competition is a healthy thing. AKSA has been around for a relatively long time now and I'm sure it will be here in 5 years time. The SKA is unproven to the eye's of the masses compared to the AKSA. Which would you go for; the new upstart that has a few positive comments or the long established and much adored front runner in kitsets?
The whole 55w thing vs. 150w is pretty much mute when you consider that I compared at sensible listening levels of around 80-90dB. Fair enough if I was powering a huge 3-way at 100dB+ but both can easily handle those volumes I used without even blinking. The 55N+ sounds more powerful than you give it credit for.
Greg Erskine said:Has anyone built a SKA with the Greg Ball PSU and done AB test with other "as designed" amps?
Hi Greg
I've tried the P101, SKA and AKSA using exactly the same supplies. It level's the playing field somewhat and besides a good PSU is a good PSU. I, respectfully, think anyone that say's otherwise is clutching at straws.
Beside I doubt Hugh would implement something like the BMM CRC's that I use(d) because the cost of the kitset would go up dramatically and for what? A relatively small increase in performance?
I can see this turning into a debate about PSU's 😉
ShinOBIWAN said:I can see this turning into a debate about PSU's 😉
Hi ShinOBIWAN,
That's what I was worrying about. I was trying to get people to discuss Greg's products, his amp, his PSU.
regards
Greg Erskine said:
Hi ShinOBIWAN,
That's what I was worrying about. I was trying to get people to discuss Greg's products, his amp, his PSU.
regards
Hi Greg
Are you using the standard supplies with your SKA and your AKSA?
At least one person will be able to compare the two with standard supplies if that's the case. BTW what do you think to the SKA so far?
Hi ShinOBIWAN,
Yes. With my amps I have tried to build "as advertised" by the designer. There are a few exceptions, like I have used discrete diodes instead of bridges on the odd occassion. Generally, if the designer offered a kit for the PSU I have used it.
I can't offer any "listening impressions" as I haven't finished it yet.
regards
Yes. With my amps I have tried to build "as advertised" by the designer. There are a few exceptions, like I have used discrete diodes instead of bridges on the odd occassion. Generally, if the designer offered a kit for the PSU I have used it.
I can't offer any "listening impressions" as I haven't finished it yet.

regards
carlosfm said:
Do you mean you use, say, a 10,000uF cap on the output stage of the amp, nothing more?
Yep...and sometimes RC filtering or active regulation for the voltage gain stage. 😉
AndrewT said:Hi Kle,
you have confirmed you have +-16mF shared between 2channels of your stereo GB300D. You are massively under resourced. For 8ohms speakers I, and many others, recommend 2mF per amp of peak output current.
.
.
Do not bother posting your results until after you compare the "before and after" fitting the correct smoothing.
Hi AndrewT
Yes, you are right. My speakers are a min of 6.5ohms. Even though the PS is +/-16KuF per 2 channels the amp is sounding exceptionally good. They were all I had lying around.

Do not bother posting your results until after you compare the "before and after" fitting the correct smoothing. Bit harsh, AndrewT ... I shall post the details in my review probably this w/end. I suppose, whatever review I post, you could assume that it will be even better with the correct PS caps.
rgds

Hi All
A friend listened to my GB300D based system, on Wednesday (< 12 hours of run in), and I asked him to write for me summary of his listening experience. This was his experience ...
mine to come
rgds
A friend listened to my GB300D based system, on Wednesday (< 12 hours of run in), and I asked him to write for me summary of his listening experience. This was his experience ...

I'd be happy to summarize my listening experience at your home this past Wednesday.
A brief recap.
The system in general performed at a very high level, and seemed to get sweeter and smoother as the afternoon wore on. What I heard was a very relaxed, effortless, and lifelike musical presentation. It was engaging and thoroughly enjoyable. The stage was wide and deep, and retrieval and resolution of micro detail was excellent. Most important to me, was the obvious coherence. Time related linearity bettered some of the obscenely expensive systems I have heard.
The interconnects were a major component in the chain. Changing them out made a huge difference, which also attests to the ability of the loudspeakers to reveal these subtle--or not so subtle shadings.
Hope this proves helpful.
Randall
mine to come
rgds

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