The curves online aren't far off.
I don't think there are any projects online for them - they haven't been out for long.
I'm afraid I can't share the work I've done with the 10HX230 as Faital Pro want that information for their distribution channels.
If you keep an eye out, they're likely to make the plans available in due course.
Chris
If your speakers are going to be that close to the floor then the coaxial makes even more sense. The Volt 10 is very attractive especially for the price.
You would have a tiny sweet spot with the lobing issues that attend all standard two-ways. Yes there are those who say sit still and listen, why be bouncing around the room just because there's music on, but if you are going to share the space with anyone else then you want speakers that cover a broader area than the single throne bolted to the floor. I'm ranting...would an expert like to comment on this?
The first time I heard the Druids, I burst out laughing at how bad they were. The owner, a friend, was not amused. However, he's since sold them so maybe he always knew I was right.
Wouldn't this be true for any two-way regardless of the distance to the floor?
The 10" and 12" graphs look better on paper at least.
Expensive tho... But may be worth it compared to the Volt 10?
I like the Ketome/Polymer diaphragm tho. I only have bad experiences with titanium diaphragms.
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You could use volt10s with the angled flat packs and turn them upside down so the drivers are pointed at your ears. Watch out for diffraction when you mount them in your cabinet though.
Just threw together some 2ways with HiVi L6-4R and Peerless H26TG06-06. I have rolled off high frequency hearing so a “flat” response speaker sounds dull to me(did not care for ClassixII I built a few years back) I had put together a crossover close to what Undefinition built for his build with these midwoofers when using a different tweeter knowing I would actually need to tune by ear due my hearing issues. Had a faulty solder joint in one of my crossovers so I went ahead and put one speaker together with just a 3.3 mf cap on the tweeter and woofer ran unfiltered. While the one with the somewhat proper 12db crossover actually sounded good the speaker with the high pass only is far more fun to listen too,sounds immediate,hits hard,has good bass and is louder than any of my other speakers outside of my Sansui SP3200.I am utilizing a Kenwood KA6006 amp which is rated at 50 watts or so I think, I cannot tolerate turning the volume up to 3 on the dial 100 dB on IPhone which I know isn’t likely accurate but it is some sort of measurement that others can duplicate. (Running Spotify through computer,no turntable in the workroom) not very scientific I know but cheap,easy,fun. Might burn someone with good ears but easy enough to run a different tweeter or pad down the Peerless.
Here's an old page,
Daves Fastlane Audio Hobby Site
Drift Recipe
Eminence Legend B-102 diy
Drift Recipe
Daves Fastlane Audio Hobby Site
Drift Recipe
Eminence Legend B-102 diy
Drift Recipe
Very usefull inputs of Adason and ScottG according to me as I'm lurking too a 2 ways of some sort but more with a horn. I believe the most easy not to get it wrong is the coaxial path...may ask eq or a good care of the choice. Some Visaton are not so bad nore expensive with coax as well?!
Whait is high efficienty for the original poster? The choice of the woofer is a tricky part as PA drivers ask big load for a better sound with low bass enough. One should not look at f3 here imho, 40 or 50 hz is enough with a 15" pehaps some not pro 12" as some Peereless which needs less liters (you need two // for a 92 db efficienty). But the shape of the curve... if flat, no bass with such f3, if a bumpfrom 50 hz to 600 with a 15 to 20 k hz at - 5 to 10 db then you will have the feeiling of bass enough. It defintly ask for efficienty so, in order to avoid the flatish flat 3 db spl curve mantra. Fact is a 15" at 50 hz f3 will sound better than a 10" at f3 30 hz in this scenario.
Myself I m lurking at few driver with this 2 ways road map, the well known Faital 15pr400, the Faital 15hf250 and the Beyma 15 sm/n. The last is tight in the bass, clear in the mids but has less low end bass fullness of the Faital...but Altec or some GP Audio , few are good as these faitals as far I understood for the price and high quality enough.
Then the treble if not a coax, not being a specialist, the ScottG advices of the 18thSound 1,4 horn is avery good one imho
Just my two cents being in close shoes as the original poster...
Whait is high efficienty for the original poster? The choice of the woofer is a tricky part as PA drivers ask big load for a better sound with low bass enough. One should not look at f3 here imho, 40 or 50 hz is enough with a 15" pehaps some not pro 12" as some Peereless which needs less liters (you need two // for a 92 db efficienty). But the shape of the curve... if flat, no bass with such f3, if a bumpfrom 50 hz to 600 with a 15 to 20 k hz at - 5 to 10 db then you will have the feeiling of bass enough. It defintly ask for efficienty so, in order to avoid the flatish flat 3 db spl curve mantra. Fact is a 15" at 50 hz f3 will sound better than a 10" at f3 30 hz in this scenario.
Myself I m lurking at few driver with this 2 ways road map, the well known Faital 15pr400, the Faital 15hf250 and the Beyma 15 sm/n. The last is tight in the bass, clear in the mids but has less low end bass fullness of the Faital...but Altec or some GP Audio , few are good as these faitals as far I understood for the price and high quality enough.
Then the treble if not a coax, not being a specialist, the ScottG advices of the 18thSound 1,4 horn is avery good one imho
Just my two cents being in close shoes as the original poster...
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The raptor is an exception to this rule but I ask myself how it sounds in the mid ? 400 hz +f3 max ?
Always dreamed to have a pair as well, though expensive in Europe and for my monney. More a sub than a woofer ?
Always dreamed to have a pair as well, though expensive in Europe and for my monney. More a sub than a woofer ?
not so simple
Tekton Lore, Eminence B102 & Audax Gold dome tweeter
Lore - Tekton Design | Improve your hearing
Tekton Lore Crossover
Tekton Lore, Eminence B102 & Audax Gold dome tweeter
Lore - Tekton Design | Improve your hearing
Tekton Lore Crossover
How to make a very simple great sounding cheap loudspeaker with only a cabinet, drivers and a capacitor:
Put 12" Goldwood 12PC8 woofers (about $75 each) in two Karson cabinets. Place a folding picture frame on top of each Karlson with two Dayton AMTPOR4 tweeters (about $100 to $200 each) in each frame. See pix. Place the two 4 Ohm AMTs in series with eachother and a 22uF 5% 250AC 400DC capacitor. Don't go cheap on this or user lower values! Don't put a coil on the woofer! Hook everything up in phase; do not reverse the AMTs.
Suitable frames and capacitors may add $25 to $50 more. Complete total for loudspeakers for me was about $300 each or $600 all said since I got the plywood for the Karlsons free at a construction site. If you are not handy, building the Karlsons may freak you out completely. But each one gets easier! For me, it was a snap. I was given a pair and then just made a pattern and was off to the races.
Step back about 10 feet with the two Karlsons at least 3 feet from the side walls and 3 feet from the back wall and your chair 4 feet from every wall. Do your best! If the room is too small, then the sound will be, too. Also, remember the old eqilateral triangle.
Hook the speakers to any amp from a class A single ended 9 watt to a class D 600 watt. Put on a direct-to-disk LP from a good system or a hidef stream or any good signal. Enjoy!
As you listen the first time, position the tweeters in the folding picture fames to sound best, fold more open or clodsed, tilt this way or that, bring foreward or back, try to maximize the sweet-spot and so on . . . See pix.
What this system will lack in untra-sonics, or midrange measured clarity, it will more than make up for by the fast, articulate, in phase, music. The tweeter will mask any upper mess from the woofer. Properly positioned with the ANTs in open baffle mode, you will get OK stage imaging and fantastic ambiance. Since most recordings have nasty stereo effects anyway, a little smearing off the back wall can only help.
Here are few very simple rules for going simple:
1. Don't get seduced into going fancy.
2. Stay simple.
3. Be satisfied with sounding great; forget testing and measuring, or being "objective". See rule 1.
4. Have fun!
5. If you have a problem, thow money and iteration at problems rather than math. Money is cheaper when you figure your time. Math just makes you feel smug sooner, but it does not guarantee loudspeakers sounding well unless you are a human wave analyzer!
6. Don't get seduced into going fancy. Oh, I already wrote that! Oops!
Please forgive any spelling errors or snide remarks! I am a half-blind, harmless grumpy old DIY audiophile who built my first speaker in 1964 from 24 mismatched drivers canibalized from old TV sets into open baffles made from warehouse pallets and burlap! They sounded GREAT to me with my 5 Watt Germainium tan Fisher amp. Of course, I only listened to kazoo and recorder music.
Put 12" Goldwood 12PC8 woofers (about $75 each) in two Karson cabinets. Place a folding picture frame on top of each Karlson with two Dayton AMTPOR4 tweeters (about $100 to $200 each) in each frame. See pix. Place the two 4 Ohm AMTs in series with eachother and a 22uF 5% 250AC 400DC capacitor. Don't go cheap on this or user lower values! Don't put a coil on the woofer! Hook everything up in phase; do not reverse the AMTs.
Suitable frames and capacitors may add $25 to $50 more. Complete total for loudspeakers for me was about $300 each or $600 all said since I got the plywood for the Karlsons free at a construction site. If you are not handy, building the Karlsons may freak you out completely. But each one gets easier! For me, it was a snap. I was given a pair and then just made a pattern and was off to the races.
Step back about 10 feet with the two Karlsons at least 3 feet from the side walls and 3 feet from the back wall and your chair 4 feet from every wall. Do your best! If the room is too small, then the sound will be, too. Also, remember the old eqilateral triangle.
Hook the speakers to any amp from a class A single ended 9 watt to a class D 600 watt. Put on a direct-to-disk LP from a good system or a hidef stream or any good signal. Enjoy!
As you listen the first time, position the tweeters in the folding picture fames to sound best, fold more open or clodsed, tilt this way or that, bring foreward or back, try to maximize the sweet-spot and so on . . . See pix.
What this system will lack in untra-sonics, or midrange measured clarity, it will more than make up for by the fast, articulate, in phase, music. The tweeter will mask any upper mess from the woofer. Properly positioned with the ANTs in open baffle mode, you will get OK stage imaging and fantastic ambiance. Since most recordings have nasty stereo effects anyway, a little smearing off the back wall can only help.
Here are few very simple rules for going simple:
1. Don't get seduced into going fancy.
2. Stay simple.
3. Be satisfied with sounding great; forget testing and measuring, or being "objective". See rule 1.
4. Have fun!
5. If you have a problem, thow money and iteration at problems rather than math. Money is cheaper when you figure your time. Math just makes you feel smug sooner, but it does not guarantee loudspeakers sounding well unless you are a human wave analyzer!
6. Don't get seduced into going fancy. Oh, I already wrote that! Oops!
Please forgive any spelling errors or snide remarks! I am a half-blind, harmless grumpy old DIY audiophile who built my first speaker in 1964 from 24 mismatched drivers canibalized from old TV sets into open baffles made from warehouse pallets and burlap! They sounded GREAT to me with my 5 Watt Germainium tan Fisher amp. Of course, I only listened to kazoo and recorder music.
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