Hi, i have a problem. So at the moment my speakers are playing without crossover expect the tweeter which has a capacitor .
The woofers i took out of old sony speakers 3way. In one boxe i have 2 woofers. But i noticed that one woofer plays more fullrange than the other one, and also the other one has a bigger magnet . One is more like a midbass and the other one is a woofer. This has made a problem because now the speakers together has too much midbass/midrange and cant hear the tweeter unless i turn it up more . i tried to take out the woofer not the midbass woofer and everything sounded better but i still want to use the other woofers.
So is there a way to use simple Low Pass crossover for the woofers ?
Its weird that they have done it this way , why not just use a crossover ?
The woofers i took out of old sony speakers 3way. In one boxe i have 2 woofers. But i noticed that one woofer plays more fullrange than the other one, and also the other one has a bigger magnet . One is more like a midbass and the other one is a woofer. This has made a problem because now the speakers together has too much midbass/midrange and cant hear the tweeter unless i turn it up more . i tried to take out the woofer not the midbass woofer and everything sounded better but i still want to use the other woofers.
So is there a way to use simple Low Pass crossover for the woofers ?
Its weird that they have done it this way , why not just use a crossover ?
A simple low pass filter consists of an inductor (coil) wired in series with the woofer.
The value of the inductor depends on the impedance of the woofer and the frequency at which you want the high frequencies to roll off.
For example, to roll off an 8 ohm woofer at 500Hz would require a standard inductor value of 2.5mH. If you want to double that frequency, then half the inductor value and vice versa.
If this answer is too simplistic, please post more details about the drivers that make up your speakers.
Weird, the tweeter should still be heard.
What capacitor value did you use?
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I have repaired "consumer" products, think Sony-Aiwa-Sanyo, etc. , boasting of , say, "4 way", and actually housing a "woofer" , (at least it was the largest one and had a foam edge) connected straight to cabinet terminals, 2 "midrange", actually cheap table radio or PC speaker quality ones, sharing a single 10uF capacitor and a cheesy "tweeter", actually a PC monitor 2" or 1.5" cone speaker with a metallized plastic dome glud to cone just for (cheesy) looks , through an 8uF capacitor.
WTF?
Cabinet impedance must have been around 2 ohm at higher frequencies. 😱 since all are wired in parallel
Killer futuristic look, cabinets seemed to be made by NASA or sometyhing and OBVIOUSLY sold on "looks" , not performance.
So I am not surprised by what you found.
As a modern example, just imagine the HORRORS inside this one:
Boasting:
* 360° Sound !!!!
* 360° Lights !!!!
* JET BASS!!!!
* TAIKO DRUMS!!!!
* MEGA BASS!!!! (and you are surprised mid bass overpowers EVERYTHING ELSE?)
Not a modern world aberration, look what they made and sold 30/40 years ago!!!! 🙄
[attached below]
Don´t worry about the ultra complex crossover, because there´s none of the kind, they probably managed with a grand total of 3 (three) capacitors. 🙄
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I think your Sony speakers are of the 2.5 way variety.
The woofer and midwoofer are probably 9 ohm DCR to come to 6ohm nominal impedance and they operate together in the low range to produce extra bass, then the mid takes over.
Also these drivers work in the same enclosure and the woof muddies the response of the mid.
I have similar Sony drivers removed from old and ugly speakers.
It is better if you make the speaker 3 way.
As a start add a coil in series with the woofer, a coil and a cap in series with the mid and keep the cap for the tweeter.
You should also put the mid woofer in a separate small enclosure so the rear radiation of the woofer won't affect it.
How to calculate values for the coils and the caps?
Simplest way is an online crossover calculator which will give you some values to start with.
Xover points: 300- 400 Hz and 3 - 4 kHz. It really depends on many other things, but these will be a decent start.
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask more questions.
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The drivers look the same but the bottom one has a bigger magnet and sounds different. Is it okay if i just make a simple crossover for the bottom one to cut off the higher frequencys ? And the tweeter is paper cone 2.5'' with a cap value 2.2uF . The driver with a bigger magnet is 9ohms and driver with a smaller magnet is 8ohms . Sony itself called the driver with a bigger magnet superwoofer or something like that .
Here's the picture 20201229-153616 — ImgBB
The tweeter 20201229-154617 — ImgBB
Speaker magnets . 20201229-155230-1 — ImgBB
Here's the picture 20201229-153616 — ImgBB
The tweeter 20201229-154617 — ImgBB
Speaker magnets . 20201229-155230-1 — ImgBB
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Nothing wrong with trying that.
Assuming your bottom driver to have an impedance of 8 ohm, I would put an inductor of 2.5mH to 5.0mH in series with it.
That's as simple as a low pass crossover gets. See my earlier post.
A ferrite core coil with low DC resistance is what you need e.g. Visaton ferrite core coil FC 3.9 mH, 1.57 inch diameter, Rdc 0.55 ohm
I would regard simply using an inductor as an effective solution for your application - try a 3.9mH like the one I linked to earlier.
The not too abrupt treble roll off may be beneficial to the integration of the lower driver with the upper driver.
It is arguable, given your set-up, whether a more complex crossover arrangement would be beneficial. Furthermore, not knowing the parameters of your drivers, the perfect crossover may be impossible to design.
The not too abrupt treble roll off may be beneficial to the integration of the lower driver with the upper driver.
It is arguable, given your set-up, whether a more complex crossover arrangement would be beneficial. Furthermore, not knowing the parameters of your drivers, the perfect crossover may be impossible to design.
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