i know the placement of the damping would be much more efficient in the "center", but most vented (br) cabs work better with less stuffing. So placing thick wads of fiberglas in the center is out.
regarding the makeup of the cab walls: afaiu ply or multiply + bitumen + hdf forces the waves to travelle successivly through materials of very different "desity"(?) which absorbs much energy. Sorry about my english, can't find the correct term.
regarding the makeup of the cab walls: afaiu ply or multiply + bitumen + hdf forces the waves to travelle successivly through materials of very different "desity"(?) which absorbs much energy. Sorry about my english, can't find the correct term.
Infinite baffle or sealed box of size equal to the ported box?
I've seen "sealed box" and "infinite baffle" used interchangably, so would like to be sure.
Cheers,
Chris
An "infinite baffle" is a box of infinite size. An OB speaker would be" infinite baffle" if it had infinite size. A good approximation is to mount a driver on a wall with the back open into a large room. A sealed box would be an "infinite baffle" only if it is so big that it does not affect the roll-off of the driver. The infinite baffles of the 60's are more properly "acoustic suspension", which is what all reasonable sized sealed boxes are.
Bob
I've built more than a few boxes for speakers in this weight class - at least several dozen for various MA 70mm metal and paper cones.
Skipping the semantics and politics, I'd like to get to the point and for this application recommend a lightweight / braced plywood enclosure lined on all internal panels with moderate "damping" (approx 1/2" thick fibrous matting such as wool/cotton/denim felt) - careful to not block internal vent openings particularly if of the narrow slotted format - and minimal wadding fill. Note that this type of driver can take at least a hundred hours or so to fully break-in, after which time you might want to adjust fill levels for "tuning" of bass response. This is harder to do with small diameter drivers, so building with a removal rear panel is not a bad idea - I often do that on the initial build of a new design, and once satisfied with fill levels, will "button up" and finish the back panel.
As Bob mentioned, in addition to panel wall wadding, a "curtain" at the centre line of longest dimension is probably a good place to start for enclosures that are not 1/4 wave resonators
W5-1611SAF
Looks like a price drop (or old news) the "SAF" is only $50.
Did anyone have a simple BR box plan in mind? My buddy is looking to outfit a 5.1 HT.
Thanks.
w5-1611saf - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free
Looks like a price drop (or old news) the "SAF" is only $50.
Did anyone have a simple BR box plan in mind? My buddy is looking to outfit a 5.1 HT.
Thanks.
w5-1611saf - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free
IMO, you will not need a tweeter with these drivers. A tweeter may provide a psychological benefit ("I see a tweeter; that means I'm hearing more detail") but this driver measures very well up to at least 16k which should be enough. For the sake of full disclosure, I had also considered adding a tweeter to this driver for precisely that reason. But even if there is some benefit to extending the top end to 20k+, I don't think it would be worth it considering the potentially damaging effects to the phase response, which IMO is likely much more important to accurate reproduction of music. I recently measured my speaker and was delighted to see that the output was very respectably flat throughout its range and the phase response nearly a straight line. As the old saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
I wonder the same thing! This driver is very commendable in that it has no glaring faults I can think of: it's respectably neutral, has a usable xmax, good efficiency, and even good off-axis response from my experience. There's not much to complain about apart from the obvious limitation of not being able to produce deep or heavy bass.
W5 SAF
16K!! Odougbo won't be missing out on anything (power tools and age), although hearing is very good, can't hear that high.
chazdrumzalot.... Thumbs up on this driver then?
16K!! Odougbo won't be missing out on anything (power tools and age), although hearing is very good, can't hear that high.
chazdrumzalot.... Thumbs up on this driver then?
A very nice driver, only downside is a bit of plasticy colouration.
I paid $50 over a year ago for mine.
They work well in Frugel-Horn Mk3
dave
Yes did think about the plastic cone; would "silicon" them right away (at least that peals off easily).
I did see the frugal-horn on my search, saw a very nice dark pair (others too).
I did see the frugal-horn on my search, saw a very nice dark pair (others too).
I hear ya.....The silicon pulls off nicely - in fact it doesn't last that long anyway before it turns yellow. I'll need the cone coated with the extra weight for tuning.
(I think I'm the only guy on DIY that tunes with clamps and semi built boxes)
How is the bass with these drivers?
I'm thinking about scaling up the "W" box, 16.5 Liters.
PIC: Now we all know, MDF has magical damping properties - joke joke
(I think I'm the only guy on DIY that tunes with clamps and semi built boxes)
How is the bass with these drivers?
I'm thinking about scaling up the "W" box, 16.5 Liters.
PIC: Now we all know, MDF has magical damping properties - joke joke
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Here are some specs. looks okay to me:
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/0624_11/w5-1611saf.htm
I think I might try a slanted box with one port on one side (I don't think it is going to need a very big port anyway).
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/0624_11/w5-1611saf.htm
I think I might try a slanted box with one port on one side (I don't think it is going to need a very big port anyway).
Attachments
not without surprises when you pull the clamps off
as I recall, much better than the upper mid range - particularly own my favorite female voices - Loreena, Eva, the Jennys, Alison
PIC: Now we all know, MDF has magical damping properties - joke joke
Well simmed this in Perfect Box (old), the results were the same: .58cf or 16.5 L Perfect box selects the "best port" which is 2" x 3-3/4" long. I'm sure WinISD also does this, not sure how to use that function.
2" x 3.75" is not much of a port, probably could get away with just a hole, but will try a box like shown in #35.
Someone did mention the box will sound different once the clamps are remove; the clamps only are for tuning, i.e. tuned on the bench, trimming down port as necessary. The tuning stays the same after they are removed.
2" x 3.75" is not much of a port, probably could get away with just a hole, but will try a box like shown in #35.
Someone did mention the box will sound different once the clamps are remove; the clamps only are for tuning, i.e. tuned on the bench, trimming down port as necessary. The tuning stays the same after they are removed.
Hey Doug, it took me a while, but I found a thread that may interest you:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/188620-onken-near-field-monitor-3.html
jeff
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/188620-onken-near-field-monitor-3.html
jeff
That is a very charming thread - thank you.
That was nice of you folks for helping her out.
(Mr Planet 10....chuckle)
20 liters tuned a little lower, ok then, the diabolical side of me has something to think about. May go back to super sizing box on #34.
The pic/plans helped a lot!
[I'm surprised I didn't bump into that thread - looked for while
]
That was nice of you folks for helping her out.
(Mr Planet 10....chuckle)
20 liters tuned a little lower, ok then, the diabolical side of me has something to think about. May go back to super sizing box on #34.
The pic/plans helped a lot!
[I'm surprised I didn't bump into that thread - looked for while
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