OK, the Parts Express order for cabinet parts was placed, and I'm trying to borrow a truck to pickup the MDF today. I'm buying the components in stages, to spread out the cost. Once the cabs are done, I'll order the crossovers.
2 260-309 Gold Recessed 5-Way Banana Speaker Terminal Rectangle $4.87 $9.74
4 260-317 Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag $10.80 $43.20
3 260-050 Band-It Cherry Veneer 24" x 96" Paper-Backed $46.90 $140.70
2 260-309 Gold Recessed 5-Way Banana Speaker Terminal Rectangle $4.87 $9.74
4 260-317 Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag $10.80 $43.20
3 260-050 Band-It Cherry Veneer 24" x 96" Paper-Backed $46.90 $140.70
I picked up the rest of the cabinet materials today:
Hole cutting bits: 12.97
2 4X8 3/4" MDF: 56.68
45deg router bit: 35.97
Titebond III: 8.17
Rubber feet: 5.38
Silicone caulk: 5.97
2 square yards 1/2" carpet padding: 10.44
12" 3" PVC pipe: 5.33
Laminate roller: 12.98
Contact cement: 9.98
Total for cabinet materials: $357.51
Not bad, I budgeted $300, but a lot of this is for tools, which don't really count, right?
Hole cutting bits: 12.97
2 4X8 3/4" MDF: 56.68
45deg router bit: 35.97
Titebond III: 8.17
Rubber feet: 5.38
Silicone caulk: 5.97
2 square yards 1/2" carpet padding: 10.44
12" 3" PVC pipe: 5.33
Laminate roller: 12.98
Contact cement: 9.98
Total for cabinet materials: $357.51
Not bad, I budgeted $300, but a lot of this is for tools, which don't really count, right?
Golden ratio help?
I'm trying to calculate the positions of the two side-to-side braces using the golden ratio.
I figured the internal depth of the enclosure to be 20.25" (overall depth of 21.75" minus thickness of front and back MDF panels 1.5"). So I want to divide the remaining space into three spaces using the golden ratio. The internal braces will be .75" thick, so will occupy 1.5" of the 20.25".
So here is my math:
20.25-1.5=18.75
18.75/3=6.25
6.25X1.618=10.1125
6.25X.618=3.8625
Now, when I go to double check (6.25+10.1125+3.8625) I get 20.225, when I would expect to get 18.75.
What am I doing wrong?
I'm trying to calculate the positions of the two side-to-side braces using the golden ratio.
I figured the internal depth of the enclosure to be 20.25" (overall depth of 21.75" minus thickness of front and back MDF panels 1.5"). So I want to divide the remaining space into three spaces using the golden ratio. The internal braces will be .75" thick, so will occupy 1.5" of the 20.25".
So here is my math:
20.25-1.5=18.75
18.75/3=6.25
6.25X1.618=10.1125
6.25X.618=3.8625
Now, when I go to double check (6.25+10.1125+3.8625) I get 20.225, when I would expect to get 18.75.
What am I doing wrong?
xover bits ordered
From Parts Express:
QTY PartNumber Product Price Ext. Price
2 266-335 0.70mH 14 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor $16.45 $32.90
2 266-355 1.2mH 14 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor $17.45 $34.90
1 372-120 Weller WLC100 Soldering Station $57.48 $57.48
2 005-2.5 Mills 2.5 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.75 $7.50
4 005-4.5 Mills 4.5 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.75 $15.00
2 005-8 Mills 8 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.75 $7.50
2 255-034 Jantzen 0.45mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor $4.08 $8.16
2 255-200 Jantzen 0.05mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor $2.81 $5.62
1 260-540 Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 3/8" x 50 ft. Roll $6.19 $6.19
1 370-038 Dayton SLDR-S4P-8 4% Silver Solder 1/2 lb. Spool $29.80 $29.80
2 027-910 Jantzen 1.0uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $1.35 $2.70
2 027-924 Jantzen 4.7uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $3.58 $7.16
2 027-938 Jantzen 18uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $8.16 $16.32
2 027-940 Jantzen 22uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $8.26 $16.52
From Parts Express:
QTY PartNumber Product Price Ext. Price
2 266-335 0.70mH 14 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor $16.45 $32.90
2 266-355 1.2mH 14 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor $17.45 $34.90
1 372-120 Weller WLC100 Soldering Station $57.48 $57.48
2 005-2.5 Mills 2.5 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.75 $7.50
4 005-4.5 Mills 4.5 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.75 $15.00
2 005-8 Mills 8 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor $3.75 $7.50
2 255-034 Jantzen 0.45mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor $4.08 $8.16
2 255-200 Jantzen 0.05mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor $2.81 $5.62
1 260-540 Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 3/8" x 50 ft. Roll $6.19 $6.19
1 370-038 Dayton SLDR-S4P-8 4% Silver Solder 1/2 lb. Spool $29.80 $29.80
2 027-910 Jantzen 1.0uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $1.35 $2.70
2 027-924 Jantzen 4.7uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $3.58 $7.16
2 027-938 Jantzen 18uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $8.16 $16.32
2 027-940 Jantzen 22uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor $8.26 $16.52
More construction pics. The interior braces all fit into dadoes, and the sides are attached with glue and biscuits. The tricky part is figuring out the order of assembly. I want the bottom to be removable, so the crossovers will go there, but I also have to figure on the port running through the top to bottom braces, and cutting the main brace to fit the drivers perfectly.
I tried using hole bits on the braces, but they take FOREVER to drill, and I just have a cordless, no drill press. So for the side to side braces, I just routed random holes, which is much quicker.
I tried using hole bits on the braces, but they take FOREVER to drill, and I just have a cordless, no drill press. So for the side to side braces, I just routed random holes, which is much quicker.
Attachments
wiring drivers
Is it better to solder the wires from the crossover directly to the terminals on the driver, or use spade clips?
Also, I ran into my first mistake in the build. I glued the front to back brace in upside down. I was so careful to label all the other pieces too, but forgot to do the braces. Doh!
Is it better to solder the wires from the crossover directly to the terminals on the driver, or use spade clips?
Also, I ran into my first mistake in the build. I glued the front to back brace in upside down. I was so careful to label all the other pieces too, but forgot to do the braces. Doh!
Re: wiring drivers
I solder all the internals except for the connections to the drivers themselves. For this connection, I solder the connectors to the wire. I use the gold connectors from Madisound.
I like to be able to remove the driver if necessary. Also, I like to avoid heating the voice coil.
mattmcl said:
I solder all the internals except for the connections to the drivers themselves. For this connection, I solder the connectors to the wire. I use the gold connectors from Madisound.
I like to be able to remove the driver if necessary. Also, I like to avoid heating the voice coil.
Re: Re: wiring drivers
For these big soldering jobs I am still using the Weller my folks gave me as a Christmas present over 40 years ago. It has survived 3 teenagers and still works like a champ. Most fun was when I was soldering RG8/U coax on a tower about 60 feet above mother earth.
I don't smoke when I solder anymore
planet10 said:
For these big soldering jobs I am still using the Weller my folks gave me as a Christmas present over 40 years ago. It has survived 3 teenagers and still works like a champ. Most fun was when I was soldering RG8/U coax on a tower about 60 feet above mother earth.
I don't smoke when I solder anymore
I'm with jim on this one, spade clips crimped ever so slightly onto the speaker's male spade.
I also prefer to have the Xovers outside the cabinet. I started with them inside too. Now they are external artwork sitting next to the cabinets.
Concerning the amount of stuffing in the driver region, I have removed about 1/3 of what I originally started with, the added cabinet resonance adds a little "Life" to the sound, ie; not quite as dull. YMMV. This is DIY! Try differing the density and total area of the stuffing, you'll be amazed at what you learn.
Ron
I also prefer to have the Xovers outside the cabinet. I started with them inside too. Now they are external artwork sitting next to the cabinets.
Concerning the amount of stuffing in the driver region, I have removed about 1/3 of what I originally started with, the added cabinet resonance adds a little "Life" to the sound, ie; not quite as dull. YMMV. This is DIY! Try differing the density and total area of the stuffing, you'll be amazed at what you learn.
Ron
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