sharp lcd projector auto shutoff

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#21
The clicking means that they are activated. I think what happens is that the ballast builds up a charge, activates the relays to hopefully release that charge, then once a certain current draw occurs (when the lamp arc ignites) the ballast sends some signal to the main board that says whether the lamp lighted correctly. This whole time I've been assuming that sending a signal manually on the data link was the way to go, but I think that li_gangyi has the right idea - tricking the ballast into sending that signal for us would be easier. Of course, if someone with a working proejctor could use an oscillascope or voltmeter to test the 4 wires for us to see what data is being sent, that would be awesome and eliminate the need for having a ballast anymore 🙂 Anyone interested in doing that for us?
 
#24
ok...let's have a look of the service manual...I suppose if you unplug the wires...you pulled something out that was controlling the ballast (power on and power off) I dun have a projector...I'm currently gathering parts to build a simple one...but I've messed around with quite a few...mostly hitachi ones...so I'm not too sure...the service manual should have something that will get us closer though...
 
#36
DiyLabs Help please

Diylabs,

You reference a L592 I have an L595 and am curious in which two of the three wires you shorted and the resistor valuse and rating you used. Furthermore what lamp did you use to retrofit this unit with? Any Further details would be much appreciated.

Thanks in Advance
 
#37
Hello! The two wires I crossed ... I'm not sure, but they were next to each other, so it's either 1-2 or 2-3. I actually just used a jumper (0 ohms), but then later decided to put in a 10 or 100 ohm resistor to prevent too much current through those wires. The lamp I used at the time was a 300 watt halogen (didn't know about metal halides at the time), but that was way too hot and melted the lamp housing a bit. You could probably make an aluminum lamp enclosure for a halogen and then install a fan directly on the lamp housing, but metal halide would be much better. Assuming your projector is similar to the L592, then it's a very good projector - who knew panasonic made such good LCD projectors?!
 
#38
Thanks DiyLabs,

I sucessfully turned off the autoshutoff with a 220 Ohm resistor between two of the wires. Furthermore just for testing I was able to retrofit with a 70W T6 MH lamp and custom reflector. The image projected was somewhat dim but seemed to be ok. I did whoever notice on one side of the screen was a "warmer" color set, could just be how I placed the lamp though as by no means was it centered or focused.

Now its time to put the 250W in.....

Thanks again
 
#39
When you got it to work, did you scream "IT IS ALIVE!"? I'm glad that it worked the same way on your projector as it did on my old one. Your lighting problem is typical, which is probably why more people don't do this, but it's also fixable. Typically using a condenser lens such as we carry will fix that problem very nicely. Also, you want to get the light source as close to the built-in columating lens as possible (this is the square condenser-like lens that is in the projector lighting compartment). I think that you will find that a 250w HQI light source will do the job nicely for darker lighting situations, and will work very nicely in general if you get a reflector and a condenser to go with it (our reflector is not the absolute best, but works okay on a budget).
 
#40
Sharp XV-ZW99U LCD Projector Lamp Reset

To reset the timer on this puppy:

Turn main power off.

simultaneously hold down the Volume Down and the adjust down buttons and turn the power on (red main power button).

The unit should power up and the lamp illuminate with 0000h displayed
 
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