I have a sharp XVZW99U lcd projector. I bought it new two years ago. when the lamp burned out (which was very soon) I was sickened when I found out that sharp wants $350 dollars for a 1400 hr. lamp. When the lamp went out the entire unit shutdown and there is somekind of shutoff system that wont let the projector run without the lamp. My question is . Is there a way to rig up a less expensive lighting system for this projector and how do you get the projector to think it is the sharp lamp?
The answer is basically yes, but there are some catches ...
I've rigged a Panasonic L592 or something like that to use our 250w metal halide HQI light source once. It worked beautifully. The only thing I had to do was to make the projector believe that it had the original lamp inside of it turned on. The way I did this was to locate the 3 wires that went between the ballast and the main board and to use a small resistor to short out two of the 3 connections - PRESTO! It worked fine, but I sold the projector before I had the mind to take pictures of the results. With that particular projector, it worked just as good as when it had the original lamp in it - I was very pleased.
Now I've got a Chisholm projector that has a 4-wire connector between the ballast and the main board and I can't figure out what it takes to trick this projector. I assume that there is some logical combination to tell the projector what the lamp status is, but I don't know what that would be.
Does anyone know how to trick a projector with a 4-wire communication bridge between the ballast and main board into thinking that it has its lamp turned on?
I've rigged a Panasonic L592 or something like that to use our 250w metal halide HQI light source once. It worked beautifully. The only thing I had to do was to make the projector believe that it had the original lamp inside of it turned on. The way I did this was to locate the 3 wires that went between the ballast and the main board and to use a small resistor to short out two of the 3 connections - PRESTO! It worked fine, but I sold the projector before I had the mind to take pictures of the results. With that particular projector, it worked just as good as when it had the original lamp in it - I was very pleased.
Now I've got a Chisholm projector that has a 4-wire connector between the ballast and the main board and I can't figure out what it takes to trick this projector. I assume that there is some logical combination to tell the projector what the lamp status is, but I don't know what that would be.
Does anyone know how to trick a projector with a 4-wire communication bridge between the ballast and main board into thinking that it has its lamp turned on?
the original lamp was a 340 watt metal halide . If i rigged up your lamp could i use the ballast in the projector or would i need the one that comes with your lamp?
The lamp voltage is what is most important in this case. In general, you should use a ballast only if it was intended for the lamp you'll be using with it. I doubt that our 250w HQI or any other metal halide would work with your current ballast except for the lamp that was made for your projector.
also would the ballast be easily reconized in the unit ? Is the size of the resistor important ? I will take some pictures when I get the projector opened . Maybe you could help me identify the wires to short. thanks
The ballast is usually a separate circuit card with medium/large coils and or capacitors on it. You'll recognize it easily since it is the circuit that is directly connected to your lamp assembly. Don't touch the connectors for the capacitors - could cause a ZAP!
Assuming that your projector has the 2 or 3-wire connectors, then yes I'd be happy to help you, though my method is basically trial and error. Initially I just used a wire/jumper to short the two leads, but then someone recommended that I put a small resistor in there to manage current. You could use anything from 10-100 ohms probably ... it doesn't take much.
Assuming that your projector has the 2 or 3-wire connectors, then yes I'd be happy to help you, though my method is basically trial and error. Initially I just used a wire/jumper to short the two leads, but then someone recommended that I put a small resistor in there to manage current. You could use anything from 10-100 ohms probably ... it doesn't take much.
When i had the cover off before I noticed a label that said to service make sure to first turn off lamp first. Maybe there is a switch somewhere that will allow the unit function without the lamp. Also just a note of thanks for all the information posted here and on your website . two years ago when i first tried to buy a replacement lamp from sharp and found out how expensive it would be I decided that there had to be a better way . back then i found no information on the internet. execpt some rippoff about making a projector from a small tv. of course i was despirate enough to be ripped off. I had my hope restored when I came across this forum and then your website. I am telling all my friends about the doit yourself labs website. thanks
You are quite welcome, and thank you very much for your kind words - that makes it all worth while for me. And don't worry about being ripped off by those "make a big screen from a small TV" offers ... I got burned too, but that's what got me started in DIY projectors. I think a lot of us have been burned on that same deal. Oh well - a $15 lesson in DIY projection 🙂
Yes that is your lamp ballast. Are you able to extract it out of the projector? That is the safest way to do things and also you'll gain a lot of room inside of the projector by doing that.
I didn't see a link between the ballast and your main board in those pictures - maybe your projector cannot sense when the lamp has illuminated? Of course, the two wires from the power supply board (the 1st picture you posted) to the ballast carry power to the ballast, which is usually in the 300v range, so just unplug that - don't try to modify those wires in any way!
Once you have the ballast removed, take another picture from the top if you're unsure of what you're looking at. Were you able to located any thin wires connecting the ballast to the main board?
I didn't see a link between the ballast and your main board in those pictures - maybe your projector cannot sense when the lamp has illuminated? Of course, the two wires from the power supply board (the 1st picture you posted) to the ballast carry power to the ballast, which is usually in the 300v range, so just unplug that - don't try to modify those wires in any way!
Once you have the ballast removed, take another picture from the top if you're unsure of what you're looking at. Were you able to located any thin wires connecting the ballast to the main board?
is the entire board the ballast of just the gray box. there are two plugs coming from the board I will post pics of them later today
my guess is that the three-wire grouping (brown, black, and yellow) is probably the data link between your ballast main board. If that is the case, then you may be able to trick your projector by shorting the black and yellow wires. If that isn't the correct combo - assuming that these are the correct wires - then just try a different combo. Sorry my help is getting a little shady here, hopefully this technique works for you on the first try.
My feeling is that the 4-lead set of wires is probably your data link between the ballast and main board. If that is the case, then I don't know how to help you yet - that's as far as I have gotten with my own projector (don't know what to do using a 4-wire method).
I suppose something happens when u turn it on and the ballast is working properly...trace the wiring back to the relays (the black cubes) you might wanna try activating them to see if the projector responds....
Edit: BTW the relays are those black cubes with DEC marked on them...
Edit: BTW the relays are those black cubes with DEC marked on them...
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