Question about the Shanti PSU. Received it a couple weeks ago but measured the output from both 3A and 1A outputs. They both measure 5.4V which is too high... How can I tweak the output voltage closer to 5V? I saw there's trimmers inside but without the schematics, which one to trim?
Thanks
Do
Thanks
Do
5.4V without load seems normal and what I also got, if I remember correctly.
With small load, should read about 5.2V and should approach 5V with full load.
Max voltage for USBridge Sig is 5.4V per cdsgames #716
You know about digital signals and their interactions with devices such as ICs?
If a digital system is badly designed then having a perfect power supply attached by a long cable will not make a difference.
There's a reason why fast switching digital chips (clocks etc) have bypass caps either in the IC or right next to the pins to reduce leading edge ringing for example caused by the inductance of the traces back to the power reserves.
A good DC power supply will only provide zero sag rails with no AC noise. If the DAC is having problems with sagging lines on the PCB then there's something wrong with the design.
Lastly - being objective and demonstrating before-after examples using an oscilloscope would be the best way. Naturally, unfortunately, people will attribute their change (vested interest) as a reason for a difference in hearing. Show hard numbers to demonstrate the change but don't let the hard numbers define your enjoyment of the music.
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Cdsgames, Revolution Is a USB DAC. But does it also sit on top of a RPi/DigiOne Sig? If so, how does one switch between the USB input and i2s?
The case in the pic looks to be a different dimension than USBridge Sig Alu case, hence my question.
Indeed thats the way the SW works .
I dont comment on how it compares , on subjective test, with competitor products. I am sure that once released we will get plenty of reviews.
Hello Chris
sorry but I dont want to publish too many information's before releasing Nirvana.
Still , I know you have been waiting for a long time and very patiently .
Noise is way under 1uV , price is slightly more than Ifi , scheduling is very firm for April 5-))
April? Or maybe early?
Looks really good. Some questions
-Will Revolution come with a power supply? You meantion Rev > Katana + Shanti, so does Rev come with any PS out of the box then?
-Does it use discrete amps like Katana? Are any socketed or are all soldered
-Just curious about new projects, more DACs or completely different projects? Any interest in AK4499 or no?
In any case I will order both Nirvana and Revolution to EU once there is the posibility ;-)
Hi,
Intend to buy and use Allo Shanti to power up USB cable between Intel NUC (with separate LPSU) and Singxer SU-1 USB SPDIF interface.
Cable is splitted into two parts on the input: USB-A for power and USB-A for data.
There is no USB-A female jack on the Shanti. Any idea how to best do it?
Is Allo Shanti maybe overkill for this?
Cheers Predrag
Intend to buy and use Allo Shanti to power up USB cable between Intel NUC (with separate LPSU) and Singxer SU-1 USB SPDIF interface.
Cable is splitted into two parts on the input: USB-A for power and USB-A for data.
There is no USB-A female jack on the Shanti. Any idea how to best do it?
Is Allo Shanti maybe overkill for this?
Cheers Predrag
Attachments
Look for a USB-A female to DC Barrel female adapter that would fit one of the Shanti's plugs.
And yes, I think Shanti would be overkill!
It would make more sense for example to buy an Intona USB isolator for USB. It filters the power and galvanically isolates signal. You don't need the split USB cable, it's rather pointless.
The SU-1 uses the USB power for powering the XMOS chip. The Shanti is super overkill for this purpose.
I do not quite get it. I thought there is consent to split USB power getting out of PC before entering the USB/SPDIF interface and cleans it.
There are so many people using battery for this purpose. But 5V battery is not quite good as the good LPSU.
If SU-1 is using USB power coming from PC, why not having clean power.
Why is the low noise LPSU for powering USB pointless? I would really like cdsgames to chime in and confirm that Shanti or any other LPSU is pointless for that purpose.
BTW Intona USB isolator for USB had bad reviews, introducing the noise of its own and contributing nothing.
BTW II They sell cable like this for 159€ and more.
Predrag
The thing about critical power for a USB to SPDIF converter is that it depends on how the SPDIF will be used. If the SPDIF clock will be used to directly clock a dac, then clock jitter may matter a lot. It means not only that the SPDIF power supply should be good, but so should the clock it has and all the rest its board.
On the other hand, if the SPDIF will be resampled by an ASRC at the dac chip, the dac chip's ASRC reference clock will dominate jitter.
The latter approach is usually a better solution since SPDIF itself is somewhat jittery by its nature. A coax cable with clock and data embedded together in one signal is not ideal. Still a lot better than TOSLINK though.
On the other hand, if the SPDIF will be resampled by an ASRC at the dac chip, the dac chip's ASRC reference clock will dominate jitter.
The latter approach is usually a better solution since SPDIF itself is somewhat jittery by its nature. A coax cable with clock and data embedded together in one signal is not ideal. Still a lot better than TOSLINK though.
Yes, correctly.
But question here is if USB cable needs clean power BEFORE it enters the USB/SPDIF interface SU-1, which has galvanic isolation anyway on the input, but needs USB power.
My plan is to connect PC to the SU-1 with:
1. USB cable(s) that will have power separated from signal.
2. Clean low noise 5V from the external LPSU.
3. Stable 5V.
Whether this will improve SQ is debatable, I think yes, some of you maybe think not.
I need some expert explanation here.
Probably it doesn't matter where the 5v is injected, though the USB connector or directly to the PCB close to where the USB power would come in, if that is the question.
Do you have a schematic for the board, or can you at least sketch out where the 5v USB power goes once it gets inside the box? To a switching regulator with an isolation transformer? If so, is there any 5v USB power used on the unisolated/dirty side such as to power the galvanic isolation circuitry on that side?
If so, maybe leave the USB power to power that side, disable/remove the SMPS and insert clean power on the isolated side. In short, it depends on exactly what is inside the box.