series woofer inductor. Lower DCR is better ?

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There is nothing good about the series resistance of the woofer inductor. Its like throwing away a good portion of the magnet on your woofers. You pay big bucks for BL, why try to save a few pennies on Re? Makes no sense.

Motor strength is defined as = Bl^2 / Re where Re is all the series resistance between the amp and the speaker. Motor strength falls as Re is increased.
 
I reckon its got a weak motor* to begin with so.... it's past the point of diminishing returns by spending more bux on low DCR iron core. perhaps introducing other bad effects for wimpy iron cored items.
high Qts is usually reserved for closed box esp. with resistive vents and we know weak motors almost always have high Qts.
 
My 2-way has a 0.76mH iron-core series woofer inductor with DCR 0.2R. Might changing to a Jantzen air core with 0.17R be a good move or as a technical friend says "a coil is a coil " ?

I've always wanted to try one of these, I can't find one near your value, but how about buying a 1.0mH and unwinding it? 🙂

You'll end up with a DCR of around 0.07 Ohms. 🙂 Now that will be different!! 😀

Erik
 
My 2-way has a 0.76mH iron-core series woofer inductor with DCR 0.2R. Might changing to a Jantzen air core with 0.17R be a good move or as a technical friend says "a coil is a coil " ?
IMO, it is worth changing the iron-core to an air-core here, but nothing to do with DCR, which really doesn't matter a scrap here.

It's because a resonant tank notch is fitted across the coil. This will amplify the iron-core's non-linear limitations.

Looks cheap enough:
Jantzen Audio 0.75mH 18 AWG Air Core Inductor Crossover Coil

The homework I did is below.
Designing Loudspeakers - WD25T EX - The next step

TBH, it's not a terribly impressive 2kHz crossover speaker, IMO. The bass filter doesn't really do much at all! 😀
 

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In a tweeter circuit, I had a lower DCR coil + resistance that matched a higher DCR coil's DCR; and the larger wire coil and resistor sounded better.

Very interesting observation. I have always assumed that they would sound similar (and never bother to compare), unless they are not equally air cored).

There is nothing good about the series resistance of the woofer inductor. Its like throwing away a good portion of the magnet on your woofers. You pay big bucks for BL, why try to save a few pennies on Re?

It's a function of 3 variables: the amplifier, the crossover and the driver/motor.

There are usually trade-offs (including "money") in defining the proper thresholds. But when I look at these 3 variables, it's obvious to me that it is useful (less trade-off, except may be for tube lovers) to ensure that the amplifier is the biggest contributor for the "driving" power.
 
part of the LPF is the woofers Le high value ( but Le is a dynamic variable as a function of displacement so...) for homework someone could put it SPICE
look at the size of that woofer magnet whoa (weak motor? you be the judge.)
 
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I recently read a different thread.
In that thread a comment was made.
'Why don't some of the true genius' contribute?'

I am now reading this thread.
gedlee makes a comment, and you genius' dismiss him?

Thank you Mr. Geddes. Your comment will be added to my bible. This along with many of your other comments.
 
One last chance:
OP, run the woofer open (no crossover, woofer only), that's the best chance of getting full clean power, as gedlee "said".
Test both polarities. I didn't simulate to check the polarity of the woofer.
Cheap price for a gold digger experience.
Report results in the next post.:santa:
TBH, it's not a terribly impressive 2kHz crossover speaker, IMO. The bass filter doesn't really do much at all! 😀
 

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One last chance:
OP, run the woofer open (no crossover, woofer only), that's the best chance of getting full clean power, as gedlee "said".

What? You cannot do it just like that. Of course GedLee was 100% correct, but like I said, there is always trade off. Without the passive components an active crossover may be needed. Many people (the major crowd, not audiophiles) like the sound of this active approach. The trade off is the complexity of the crossover electronics.

Choose/design the right amp, and you don't need to worry the load. But I'm not going to say anything about how to do it 😀
 
Have already tried the woofer sans crossover components. I prefer it with. The bass seemed to improve both tonally and made itself more present when I changed the treble polys for the teflons (same total value = 10.1uF). Go figure I still have the polys on the woofer.
As I said, I´ll take pot shot at either the Jantzen air-core (0.76mH/ 0.17R) or the Jantzen C-core Toroidal (0.76mH/ 0.03R) in the New Year some time. The toroidals are supposed to be for very high power and weigh 1/2 kilo so perhaps the air core will win.
 
If we are talking about the difference between .2 ohm and .17 ohm then it doesn't really matter. But in my system the air core was about 1.5 ohm and the iron core about .4 ohm, and there are two of them. In this case it is a huge difference.

And thanks for the compliment.
 
Have already tried the woofer sans crossover components. I prefer it with. The bass seemed to improve both tonally and made itself more present when I changed the treble polys for the teflons (same total value = 10.1uF). Go figure I still have the polys on the woofer.
As I said, I´ll take pot shot at either the Jantzen air-core (0.76mH/ 0.17R) or the Jantzen C-core Toroidal (0.76mH/ 0.03R) in the New Year some time. The toroidals are supposed to be for very high power and weigh 1/2 kilo so perhaps the air core will win.

The C-Coils are not air-core, just so you know. Over here we can't get C-Coils in less than 1.5mH value.

Later,
Wolf
 
In the end I have gone for some Jantzen Wax-Coils which have a wooden bobbin apparently . I am assured that with such a relatively high crossover point (2kHz) they are a safe bet and are likely to make quite a difference. Hopefully a positive one.
We shall see.
Thanks again.
 
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