Lasers only burn perpendicular to the surface, so no c'sink - that would be a secondary operation. The thicker the material, the rougher the cut, particularly if you look at the back side. So essentially, a round hole will not be round looking from the exit side of the laser in thick material. Also, there is a limit to how small a hole you can do. Typically no less than 1-1.5 times the material thickness. Time is money when it comes to laser cutting. Cost goes up with increased thickness and linear length of cut, and the number of penetrations. Starting a hole takes longer than cutting a continuous length. Something to think about when adding vents etc. Aluminum's excellent thermal conduction makes it require more power to cut than steel and stainless. I don't know if that is factored into cost at all, but I know the laser we have at work will cut 1/2" steel or stainless all day, but only 3/8" aluminum.
All that info is on their web site, and prices for different materials can be easily compared
when you run an automated quote. They also include finishing as standard in the quote.
Materials - SendCutSend
Laser Cutting FAQs - sendcutsend.com
when you run an automated quote. They also include finishing as standard in the quote.
Materials - SendCutSend
Laser Cutting FAQs - sendcutsend.com
I would laser cut only the large or complex holes,and home drill anything which can be solved with a drillpress and an assorted drill set. (any round hole less than, say, 13mm or 1/2")
They can do hole diameters down to about the material thickness, with finished edges.
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The holes in my part are 1/8" and pretty clean. At the prices they charge its not even worth getting my hands dirty anymore.
I've found that holes need to be cleaned up for PEM nuts and rivets in .080" aluminum. Easy enough with a power drill and a bit of the right size.
Out of curiosity I'm nearing completion of CAD files for two top plates of projects I'm doing next. John Broskies EL84 PP and a clone of Decware Zen 2W EL84 SET. they are nearly all drawn up. I'll submit for a quote using 6061 .125 inch 3.1 mm aluminum and post the results back here. I have a small CNC machine in my wood shop already, but the retail cost of just the aluminum stock alone sounds close to the few prices posted here. We won't know the value here until more people ask for quotes then post their prices and cad files back here. Then compare those prices to the price of sheet stock to do it yourself.
That is easier, reaming a countersink on an existing hole in aluminum usually cuts pretty good. and I set the press to stop at just the right depth for the particular screws. I only use flathead screws in the places where I want wood trim to sit flush anyway hiding the screws, all other exposed screws are pan heads and I like hex bolts for the transformers. I'm going for that mid century modern table radio look, beveled walnut framing around aluminum panels so I need countersinking under the wooden parts.
I ordered a dozen 0.060" stainless steel pieces that were 4" square, for the minimum $29. including shipping.
It took 3 days to ship. This is very cheap and an extremely good deal. Most here cannot do metalworking,
and for such a low cost, it's a no-brainer.
For more data, here is what I paid for raw 6061 aluminum plate 24 x 24 inches x .125 and .25. At Midwest Steel and Aluminum, shipping was $9 for two sheets of the .125 material and one sheet of the .25 material on the same order (3 sheets in total).
24 x 24 x .125 = $23.22 per sheet x 2 $46.44
24 x 24 x .25 = $40.69 per sheet (1 sheet)
Out of a 24 x 24 sheet I expect to get 4 small project tops, or 1 big project and 2 small projects and hopefully all the front and rear panels at 3-4 inches in height.
Just some reference data.
My CNC will x/y up to 24 x 24 inches so I'd cut several projects out of a single sheet all at once. It comes much, much cheaper if you get a 4 x 8 foot sheet but you'd need a big machine!
24 x 24 x .125 = $23.22 per sheet x 2 $46.44
24 x 24 x .25 = $40.69 per sheet (1 sheet)
Out of a 24 x 24 sheet I expect to get 4 small project tops, or 1 big project and 2 small projects and hopefully all the front and rear panels at 3-4 inches in height.
Just some reference data.
My CNC will x/y up to 24 x 24 inches so I'd cut several projects out of a single sheet all at once. It comes much, much cheaper if you get a 4 x 8 foot sheet but you'd need a big machine!
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A special pattern of small cut outs. This is for a customer, and I can't post any more info about it here.
I do have to say that this service is far and away the best, and the lowest cost, of any that I have ever seen,
and we have at least two large laser cutters here in town. A local service would be several times more cost
just for set up, and you would wait weeks or longer. Maybe a handful of diyAudio people have their
own machine shop, but most don't, and have no such skill, so this is a great resource. All you have to be
able to do is make a .dxf file, and you get your parts cheap and fast. I've looked for a service like this for years.
And they do have a 48" x 96" machine, but for parts that large you'll pay for the shipping.
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Hey guys, Im trying to send a file to these guys, but im having trouble.
I have a fusion 360 drawing of a chassis I want done, but when I upload it, the dimensions are in centimeters instead of inches.
I have tried triple checking all my dimensions are in fact in inches, and if I export the project to my laptop everything checks out. But it's still showing up in centimeters on SCS.
It wouldn't even be an issue however SCS only lets you choose inches or CM on their website.
Has anyone seen this issue before?
I have a fusion 360 drawing of a chassis I want done, but when I upload it, the dimensions are in centimeters instead of inches.
I have tried triple checking all my dimensions are in fact in inches, and if I export the project to my laptop everything checks out. But it's still showing up in centimeters on SCS.
It wouldn't even be an issue however SCS only lets you choose inches or CM on their website.
Has anyone seen this issue before?
If you email them with the file, they can probably fix the problem.
They also helped me with a scale problem that I couldn't figure out,
and it took only a couple of minutes. Just tell them what the overall
dimensions should be. Email to: support@sendcutsend.com
They also helped me with a scale problem that I couldn't figure out,
and it took only a couple of minutes. Just tell them what the overall
dimensions should be. Email to: support@sendcutsend.com
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And they also do bending, this is a great service for DIYs in the US.
Does anyone know about a similar service in some EU-country or china with affordable shipping costs?
Does anyone know about a similar service in some EU-country or china with affordable shipping costs?
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I don't know about similar services here, but I contacted a local machine shop and they were not particularly expensive. Send your CAD files and ask for a quote. Ask for shipping price, too. Some don't do business with individuals, but some do. The company I contacted was maxilaser.fi. They do laser cutting and bending.
I used a number of them locally for industrial parts. Are your parts aluminum or sheet steel? BTW aluminum better cut with waterjet abrasive.
Depends on the finish avaiable, I think stainless steel or brass would be easiest for enclosures but I need also some max 1.6mm thick low Dk laminate for transformer bobbins
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Ordinary sheet steel coated with powder is OK for the typical amp. Brass is absolutely not necessary, better aluminum if you want a non-magnetic enclosure.
We made some metalwork at KnK Mefab in Riga, they have laser cut, bending, and welding for steel and aluminum sheet metal + powder coat. Prices are reasonable, small orders completed usually within few weeks. After sending files (for bend parts you may need a flat pattern DXF), call them to review your order. They are quite slow to respond.
Shipping from Riga to Finland should not be very expensive, but you have to pay for packing and a wooden palette.
KnK MeFab - Contacts