no new amp ...search on forum...like hi pass filter or rumble filter
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_3.html around will be some java software
ss 10k to 25k
tube 47k to 100k
just misure the input resistor 😉 or look better probably you have already an input cap to avoid DC from the source...
if is tube amp as very simple... just lower the coupling cap between the stage to avoid one more caps in series
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_3.html around will be some java software
ss 10k to 25k
tube 47k to 100k
just misure the input resistor 😉 or look better probably you have already an input cap to avoid DC from the source...
if is tube amp as very simple... just lower the coupling cap between the stage to avoid one more caps in series
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In my case i use a sub directly connected to the output of my ST-70 by using 250ohm resistors, which are then connected to the sub. works sub-perb! 😀
It's taking care of the rest 🙂
It's taking care of the rest 🙂
...also... active filters, tend to be expensive when they get good. Had a simple active filter between my sub and Klipsch'es.. I tried a REL Studio directly connected by a 600ohm connection, and was totally blown away 🙂
Hello, can anyone tell me where I can get the suggested resister and coil to tame down the highs please.
SEAS say on the application note:
"The parallel resistor controls the high frequency attenuation. A larger
resistance results in more attenuation. Metal
film resistors of at least 5 Watts are recommended. Please make sure that the inductor is
wound from a heavy conductor for a low series
resistance, preferably less than 0.5 Ohms."
H1597-08 FA22RCZ
Thanks
SEAS say on the application note:
"The parallel resistor controls the high frequency attenuation. A larger
resistance results in more attenuation. Metal
film resistors of at least 5 Watts are recommended. Please make sure that the inductor is
wound from a heavy conductor for a low series
resistance, preferably less than 0.5 Ohms."
H1597-08 FA22RCZ
Thanks
Thanks 😉
I am not sure what I should order from them, hope someone can help choose for me !
Mundorf & Glasshouse inductors & coils page
Thanks for the link, on the page there is 27 to choose from ! Plus will need a resistor of some sort ?
Seas suggest a 0.87mH or a 1.5mH, depending on how you want to tune it. Don't waste your money on the foil coils, the normal copper wire will do just fine here. Really.
You parallel that with a resistor of about 7 to 15 ohms. That will bring down the top end to suite your room, amp and ears. The larger the values, the more you bring down the top end. Simple. 🙂
You parallel that with a resistor of about 7 to 15 ohms. That will bring down the top end to suite your room, amp and ears. The larger the values, the more you bring down the top end. Simple. 🙂
Thanks Pano, took a look at the site's air core coils but none there to the required value I think:
air core coils - Hifi Collective
air core coils - Hifi Collective
Well its complicated, especially as I have two cones in each cab in parallel resulting in a 4ohm load.
From what I can gather I will need a coil and resistor per drive unit or better to have just the one per two drive units. But what values ?
From what I can gather I will need a coil and resistor per drive unit or better to have just the one per two drive units. But what values ?
Hi to all You,
I am new here and wanna ask a question regarding those speakers that I hope same of You will answer as thought exercise. I up front appreciate your time spended for this - so big Thank You ! in advance...
Here is the question: What will be the best use of those drivers in an apartment size 15 X 25 feet that has unsed second room size 30 X 11 feet behind the 15 feet wall and two unused doors on both edges of that wall. Could it be used (that wall) as a OB, or maybe long horn can be run into that unused room allowing for better (lower) bass ?
The only way I can thank You, guys for the answers can be recommending my last audio delight - CD of a group called 2Tm2,3 titled PROPAGANDA DEI ( no personal or financial interest involved).
Hard to get but worth trying... if you tolerate acoustic type of music and the type of it that brings the best from human soul...
Have a Good Life - Adam
I am new here and wanna ask a question regarding those speakers that I hope same of You will answer as thought exercise. I up front appreciate your time spended for this - so big Thank You ! in advance...
Here is the question: What will be the best use of those drivers in an apartment size 15 X 25 feet that has unsed second room size 30 X 11 feet behind the 15 feet wall and two unused doors on both edges of that wall. Could it be used (that wall) as a OB, or maybe long horn can be run into that unused room allowing for better (lower) bass ?
The only way I can thank You, guys for the answers can be recommending my last audio delight - CD of a group called 2Tm2,3 titled PROPAGANDA DEI ( no personal or financial interest involved).
Hard to get but worth trying... if you tolerate acoustic type of music and the type of it that brings the best from human soul...
Have a Good Life - Adam
Finished mine a couple of weeks ago and I'm pretty impressed. Ended up with the 1.5mH // 15R series filter and I think it sounds really good. I don't have any fullrangers in the same size to compare it to though, but I do like the FA22s.
Yes it is. I made my project with them some 6 years ago and I still like them. But they were better bargain then, I payed 109,90 EUR a piece.
Half the inductance and half the resistance in the coils and resistors repectively.
In a Norwegian forum there was a more complicated fiter taking cara of several peaks in the response. If that sounds better or not I do not know. I had a filter that made a Tangband 4" driver much more linear but the sound was dull and boring.
Many of the HF issues disappear when you install phase plugs.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf
dave
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/B200-phase-plug.pdf
dave
In my opinion Mr Joachim Gerhard is right, the inner cone needs damping.
My damping was made by three coats of thinned, four years preaged Linseed oil for the dustcap an two coats for the cone. High Frequency beam compensation is added by a proper acustical suspension lens. Sadly i found not mutch and if, very old literature on this issure.
Drying time is now two years. Damping for the 2 mil aluminium carrier will be butyl-foil, not yet applied. Goal of this procedure will be getting an acustic dead structure. Lets see if the LCD Network is obsolete now, acustical enery should now be dispensed better. I installed the driver assymetric in my Breezer, for avoiding summation of edge reflection and distributing baffle step over more than just one Frequency.
My damping was made by three coats of thinned, four years preaged Linseed oil for the dustcap an two coats for the cone. High Frequency beam compensation is added by a proper acustical suspension lens. Sadly i found not mutch and if, very old literature on this issure.
Drying time is now two years. Damping for the 2 mil aluminium carrier will be butyl-foil, not yet applied. Goal of this procedure will be getting an acustic dead structure. Lets see if the LCD Network is obsolete now, acustical enery should now be dispensed better. I installed the driver assymetric in my Breezer, for avoiding summation of edge reflection and distributing baffle step over more than just one Frequency.
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