Budget planning is good practice but take it as a guide more than a definitive quote. You'll probably blow it in the end ( well this is my experience in diy).
One thing i see you didn t list in your budget is wood or connectors or cables or...
All this may just eat the money which you managed to spare for your xover.
I fear if you redo a 'circle ride' than you'll just face procrastination.
GO AHEAD!
One thing i see you didn t list in your budget is wood or connectors or cables or...
All this may just eat the money which you managed to spare for your xover.
I fear if you redo a 'circle ride' than you'll just face procrastination.
GO AHEAD!
I did well think of the cost of the cabinet. I’m going to build it with a friend who is woodworker who’s help will make for a very nice result and he can get the wood from the wholesale which saves a lot and I can get whatever type and size of wood I want.
Even though I know cables are very important. I’m not planning to spend much on RCA connectors and speaker cables I’m gonna make myself with the copper speaker wire which I already have laying around so that’s free.
Even though I know cables are very important. I’m not planning to spend much on RCA connectors and speaker cables I’m gonna make myself with the copper speaker wire which I already have laying around so that’s free.
Rca for poweramp input and line level interconnect yes.
But for your poweramp(s) output(s)?
Cable importants... well yes and no, this is a can of worm! It may be important for hifi seller for earning money, for some audiophile to tweak theyr imperfect chain, for users to transmit signal one point to another with neutrality.
My take on this is to use what i used in studio or live events Mogami cables for speakers (3104 for low end and high current needs and 2901 for other needs) for line level either Mogami (2534 neglex) or Gotham (Gac 4/1).
Yes they are all quad ( i run pro audio line level balanced impedance gear and for loudspeaker there is some gain to run quad in parallel pairs regarding lower copper resistance higher capacitance and emi/rfi interference shielding) and yes they seems a bit pricey but not even in the lowcost side of "audiophile" grade cables from dubbious origin or nebulous technical principles.
This nails down the search for me about cables.Did i mention they sound good too? (By good i mean neutral)
But for your poweramp(s) output(s)?
Cable importants... well yes and no, this is a can of worm! It may be important for hifi seller for earning money, for some audiophile to tweak theyr imperfect chain, for users to transmit signal one point to another with neutrality.
My take on this is to use what i used in studio or live events Mogami cables for speakers (3104 for low end and high current needs and 2901 for other needs) for line level either Mogami (2534 neglex) or Gotham (Gac 4/1).
Yes they are all quad ( i run pro audio line level balanced impedance gear and for loudspeaker there is some gain to run quad in parallel pairs regarding lower copper resistance higher capacitance and emi/rfi interference shielding) and yes they seems a bit pricey but not even in the lowcost side of "audiophile" grade cables from dubbious origin or nebulous technical principles.
This nails down the search for me about cables.Did i mention they sound good too? (By good i mean neutral)
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Which of the tweeter that performs best, comes down to driver match, the sound you prefer, and the skill of the man or women behind the crossover. Dont expect to get any way near the optimal performance out of those drivers without experience. Designing a textbook filter is not the way to go.
You are not sounding offending Rockytheman, at least for me.
3wayaddict is probably doing his own search using your comment as a guide ( i can testify he already did on some offending comments i made) or he is doing things a 16y old guy do... seducing girls! In fact i hope for him he is doing the later! Much more interesting than chat with old guys like us especially during summer break.
3wayaddict is probably doing his own search using your comment as a guide ( i can testify he already did on some offending comments i made) or he is doing things a 16y old guy do... seducing girls! In fact i hope for him he is doing the later! Much more interesting than chat with old guys like us especially during summer break.
I wasn’t offended, I do indeed not have much experience, especially with crossovers but I’m that with the help of you guys I put it of, very well.
Of course I look at girls their back sides, especially now I’m sailing around Mallorca, Ibiza and Formentera but I’m not at all hunting for a real girlfriend yet. It might seem like a stupid reason but I just want to do my own things like building speakers without having to keep her happy.
Of course I look at girls their back sides, especially now I’m sailing around Mallorca, Ibiza and Formentera but I’m not at all hunting for a real girlfriend yet. It might seem like a stupid reason but I just want to do my own things like building speakers without having to keep her happy.
The sensitivity of the Illuminator is lower/closer to that of the MW16P-4 and the frequency response is flatter so crossover intergration should be easier. The Revelator (and quite a number of other tweeters) have this big round shape causing a bigger gap between the roll of frequency and the top of that round shape so there’s more adjustments that need to be made. The Illuminator just has a flat response and sharp roll of knees so crossover integration with the MW16P-4 will be easier.
I’ve ordered the WO24P-4’s and MW16P-4’s by the way.
I’ve ordered the WO24P-4’s and MW16P-4’s by the way.
If we're talking standard dome tweeters then the obvious choice is to pick a scanspeak tweeter with a small faceplate. That way you can get it physically closer to the MW16. This is a real benefit. Neither the revelator or illuminator above have any real advantage over one another. Going for something like the D3004/602010 or D3004/604010 actually gives you something of benefit. That's if you actually get it as close to the MW as you can.
They do have a slightly more rough response though, especially off-axis. Does anybody have distortion graphs of the 602010? Those little saw teeth in the response I know can be addressed in the crossover but if they have audibly more distortion I’ll rather stick with the 662000. I would really like to use it don’t get me wrong. It costs nearly half the price and when I interstate it properly in my design I think such a small tweeter can look really, really nice too which are two huge bonuses but not if the cons out gain the pros. I think many of my favourite speakers looks wise use a tweeter with a small or no faceplate like Grimm, Kii (both Dutch ) and my absolute favourite: Kroma.
) and my absolute favourite: Kroma.There`s progress
I think you`d love these drivers.For a tweeter, if I was you I would go for the SB26ADC or newer SB26CDC which appears to be an ADC with less issues (minor on the adc anyways). Let not the price fool you (I know you`re looking for higher cost tweeters). Stick it to a Monacor WG300 and have fun. Preliminary info I have on the CDC (from Midwest Audio club) is it is very neutral, detailed and spacious. I have a set on the way, just waiting for my dealer to receive them and dispatch which should be this week, if you wanna wait for some more comments.
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Found graphs at Zaph. I totally accept the distortion graphs of the 602010 in comparison to the 660000. In total it would be higher but barely is already too big of a word. At 2 kHz the 602010 just rolls off of the big bump it has under 2 kHz which the 660000 doesn’t have at all but the 602010 doesn’t have the distortion peak between 2 and 3 kHz which the 660000 does have. From 4 kHzboth have a big bump which is slightly bigger on the 602010 but not that bad that I would ditch it. So yeah, I’ll consider and maybe change to the 602010... AGAIN.
How big of a difference does it make? Just asking.
How big of a difference does it make? Just asking.
I have built several speakers with SS and Satori drivers, I dare say, you will be happy with any of them. Crossover skills will determine the result. To use any benefit of small flange SS tweeters you will have to measure and design crossover also in vertical plane.
I would choose SS7100 + 2000Hz LR2. 7100 also works well in WG148, top end is not perfect, but improved directivity matching at crossover frequency pays off.
I would choose SS7100 + 2000Hz LR2. 7100 also works well in WG148, top end is not perfect, but improved directivity matching at crossover frequency pays off.
Okay let’s say it like this: if the crossover is as good as it can be, what will be a better choice. The 602010 which can be placed closer to the mid woofer or the 662000 which is very similar but has just slightly lower distortion and smoother frequency response.
The 710002 doesn’t seem that good of a choice to me. It has slightly lower distortion but so slightly it’s irrelevant and it has bigger knees at the roll of at the crossover frequency and it has a way higher sensitivity so there doesn’t seem to be much of an advantage but just more to address in the crossover.
The 710002 doesn’t seem that good of a choice to me. It has slightly lower distortion but so slightly it’s irrelevant and it has bigger knees at the roll of at the crossover frequency and it has a way higher sensitivity so there doesn’t seem to be much of an advantage but just more to address in the crossover.
Choosing between 602010 and 662000, I would probably go with 602010, just from technical reasons.
Out of experience, MW16P+SS6600 tilted baffle, 2200Hz LR2 sounds also very good.
Generally, all SS tweeters and not only tweeter look quite bad on FR graphs. So I don't pay much attention to their graphs, but rather to 3rd party measurements. Baffle placement will also affect the response.
Out of experience, MW16P+SS6600 tilted baffle, 2200Hz LR2 sounds also very good.
Generally, all SS tweeters and not only tweeter look quite bad on FR graphs. So I don't pay much attention to their graphs, but rather to 3rd party measurements. Baffle placement will also affect the response.
Aboutaleb the beryllium drivers. I think I might go with the D3004/604010. It measures well with lower distortion than the non-beryllium 602010. The 602010 had some peaks above 5 kHz reaching above 2%. The 604010 has a smooth line consistently staying under 2%. There will obviously also be a difference in the way the beryllium sounds in comparison with cloth and beryllium will be the winner. Vance Dickason himself actually said it is one of the best sounding tweeter he has ever heared in his review in Voice Coil.
Yes they are very expensive but I’ve recently saved quite a bit and I will be able to afford them and I’m sure it will be well worth my money. They performance of the diaphragm itself in combination with the extra close position to the mid woofer will be the best of both worlds!
Yes they are very expensive but I’ve recently saved quite a bit and I will be able to afford them and I’m sure it will be well worth my money. They performance of the diaphragm itself in combination with the extra close position to the mid woofer will be the best of both worlds!
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Two things. The way the SS are made seem like a real pain in the *** to mount in the frontbaffle. For sure I would put them in their own chamber in the cabinet, to make sure no air is leaking - That is not easy if you place the drivers really close.
SB Acoustics beryllium neo seem a class better than the SS. If I were to shell out that amount of money I would no doubt pick SB. Or buy both and test which one suits you taste and the mid best.
SB Acoustics beryllium neo seem a class better than the SS. If I were to shell out that amount of money I would no doubt pick SB. Or buy both and test which one suits you taste and the mid best.
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