Seas 27TFFC in ProAc Studio 100 clone?

Hi folks,


I have built a pair of ProAc Studio 100 clones (crossover should be correct) but using the newer (available) version of the ScanSpeak Classic => 8542-10 instead of 8542-00 and also Seas 27TFFC instead of 25TFFC. Generally I am very happy with the result, only I struggle with the top end as it seems unnaturally harsh to me (or maybe my ears have been f***ing with me for a long time now). So now I saw that Falcon is selling the 25TFFC again and thought this might solve my problem. Before ordering I wanted to ask if someone has any thoughts on this. Would be much appreciated.


Thanks!
 
What do you mean by "drop-in"? There are technically no old ones, I used to own a pair of Studio 1 MK2 which used 25TFFC and in my memory they were much more smooth in the top end. I am now trying to figure out why that is. Crossover was checked many many times any is hardly to be the problem. The last explanation I can think of is that the crossover simply was not designed for the 27TFFC, but a friend of mine said they are the same except for the ferrofluid. That does not make sense to me, because removing the ferrofluid must have altered something, no?
 
Sorry for digging up an old thread. For what its worth, I recently received the Seas Prestige 25TFFC H519 to replace my old ProAc Studio 100 tweeters, (which say 25TFFC-C H563). The tweeter measures over 5db hotter than the originals with a slightly different curve. I've had to add a resistor to the the tweeter side to make it listenable.
 
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Right now I am experimenting a bit with resistors on both the tweeter and woofer which I think may cancel themselves out more or less, but in XSim it makes for some interesting curves as the new 8542-10 also sounds way different to me than the 8542-00 and I am trying to find a way to make the speaker sound like it used to.

I currently have 6.9 ohm resistor on the tweeter (3.6 + 3.3) and a 2.7 ohm resistor on the woofer.

I think as a starting point you could throw one 3.3 or 3.6 or 3.9 resistor in line with the tweeter and might get a much nicer balance.

Disclaimer I am the exact opposite of an expert regarding any of this, I just hear what I hear
 
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I just added a 6.9 Ohms resistor to the Tweeter circuits but now they sound a bit dull. Will collect some more resistors tomorrow and see how it changes by dropping town to 3.3 or so. Thank you! Maybe I will also just add a resistor to the woofer like you did. Maybe you can have a look at my crossover too. It should be the same as yours.
 

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At a quick glance that looks correct! Absolutely I would just try something closer to 3 -4 ohm on the tweeter side first. You could use a couple 6 or 7 ohm in parallel if need be just to hear it. I am quite unsure of the woofer resistor and will be experimenting with actual tweaks to the crossover points with new inductors and capacitors in the coming weeks.
 
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How is tweaking going? Have you changed the woofer crossover path yet? I finally got myself some resistors to play with. Curious if you already had some success.

How is the 8542-10 different sounding to you compared to the -00? For me it was long time ago that I heard the original one. Would you say some bass is missing and it is sounding thin?
 
Hey Peter- After a few changes I’m still back on the 6.9 on twt and 2.7 on the woofer. I am struggling slightly as a critical listening speaker, I use it for mixing and to me it honestly leans a bit too flattering for that purpose. But I think in terms of a general listening experience it sounds great. If anything the new woofers have more bottom end to me, so I’m not sure if something is up with yours. The old driver had a bit more expression in the mids to me. You sure the port / box and all that are all good? Original 100s were never been terribly bass heavy speakers. A pronounced 90-150hz but nothing particularly vivacious in the bottom two octaves. Maybe try placing them on wall if possible? Check to make sure tweeter is wired correctly (out of phase I think).