It is easier when you visualise your goal ... 😀 ... little 3D check before I cut some wood...
Last edited:
slow progress....
Sides are done, 3 mm recessed channels for easier assembly and glueing....made 3 degrees tilt back of the whole box. With spikes it will be possible to make zero to 6 degrees tilt...
Laminated heads...I consider this as a general waste of material but had to try it. 🙂 Made from residual MDF and plywood. I don't think that laminated speakers have any advantage over normal ones and I guess that stiffness and dimensional stabilty is actually compromised. Especially when they make thin front baffles - like Troels does in his constructions. Here it's just a part of the box for nice look...It will get veneer on the curved top so it will not be visible or hard for lacquering...
6mm furniture alignment joints - for perfect fit without sliding during glueing...
Sides are done, 3 mm recessed channels for easier assembly and glueing....made 3 degrees tilt back of the whole box. With spikes it will be possible to make zero to 6 degrees tilt...
Laminated heads...I consider this as a general waste of material but had to try it. 🙂 Made from residual MDF and plywood. I don't think that laminated speakers have any advantage over normal ones and I guess that stiffness and dimensional stabilty is actually compromised. Especially when they make thin front baffles - like Troels does in his constructions. Here it's just a part of the box for nice look...It will get veneer on the curved top so it will not be visible or hard for lacquering...
6mm furniture alignment joints - for perfect fit without sliding during glueing...
You have decided that the top facet is the defining 'character edge' of your design, and I was wondering if you had thought to add some asymmetry (slope) to it, so L and R are mirrored instead of identical?
I didn't want to complicate further, it looks enough roundedish... 🙂
Will see how will area around tweeter behave. Waveguides are generally less sensitive on diffraction, but maybe I will have to move waveguide closer to one side a little bit....that would be asymmetrical ....But since everything is generously rounded I don't expect problems....
Will see how will area around tweeter behave. Waveguides are generally less sensitive on diffraction, but maybe I will have to move waveguide closer to one side a little bit....that would be asymmetrical ....But since everything is generously rounded I don't expect problems....
lack of time means only small steps further 🙄
test baffles fit
OK, 65 litres will not overwhelm the room, they will be elegant...
test baffles fit
OK, 65 litres will not overwhelm the room, they will be elegant...
I could not make 3D solid from augerpro's step file....and I need it to make a waveguide on CNC router...have to do some additional Googleing...
One pair of Illuminators D3004/6600 ordered and will come next week ... 😍
One pair of Illuminators D3004/6600 ordered and will come next week ... 😍
Great project! Please share your Satori TX impressions and eventual TL test results. I have MW19TX-8 whose in-built 50hz deep notch thwarted my ~5:1 tapered 1.5m TL (TLonken). Adding 50hz resonance... fleshed out the bass with you-know-what. Otherwise great from 60hz with Satori TW29R (32mm offset) 1st-order series XO ~1.9khz. If the "watermelon skin" SS 18W is much better maybe I ought to look for it.
(My MJK Table1 "redux" R:1 down-taper effective multiplier ~ R^1/4.75)
I can't catch all what you are saying... 🙂
Satori units don't have 50 Hz notch in response, that is measurement artifact, it can be seen in all their datasheets. Anyway, it is OK to make 50 Hz tuning of TL if you like that. MW19 and SS 18W are similar size, but not exactly the same in distortion profiles or responses. Sure there will be some differences....
I will try to test MW16ps in this box and provide results...
Satori units don't have 50 Hz notch in response, that is measurement artifact, it can be seen in all their datasheets. Anyway, it is OK to make 50 Hz tuning of TL if you like that. MW19 and SS 18W are similar size, but not exactly the same in distortion profiles or responses. Sure there will be some differences....
I will try to test MW16ps in this box and provide results...
progress report
Bottom feet made from 30 mm plywood. Will be conected with screws and removable. Thick plywood and a lot of screws becuse it will carry all the weight...
Upper part has T slot nuts in small channels glued with epoxy. This thingie can't turn in wood with overtightening.
Heads are done. Too much wood, glue and work. But it looks nice. 🙂
Bottom feet made from 30 mm plywood. Will be conected with screws and removable. Thick plywood and a lot of screws becuse it will carry all the weight...
Upper part has T slot nuts in small channels glued with epoxy. This thingie can't turn in wood with overtightening.
Heads are done. Too much wood, glue and work. But it looks nice. 🙂
Illuminators arrived. They look fabulous. It's a pity that this front plate will be hiden behind the waveguide...
This cup behind covering neo magnets has three screws, I will use them to hold additional plate for pressing tweeter against the waveguide.
Ultra high end of course... 😀
This cup behind covering neo magnets has three screws, I will use them to hold additional plate for pressing tweeter against the waveguide.
Ultra high end of course... 😀
Last edited:
February is coming and still no box. Measurement jig is nervous and so am I because I would like to hear something soon...
Found the way how to cut Somasonus waveguide on CNC router. Big thanks to augerpro for his work. Some donation is coming...
Found the way how to cut Somasonus waveguide on CNC router. Big thanks to augerpro for his work. Some donation is coming...
Trying to modify the waveguide a little bit to be able to sink it into rounded baffle. Throat geometry stays the same, just peeking sides are rounded a little bit....I'm not AKABAK guy and don't know what will be the impact of these small changes until measurements....but I have arrived to something optically acceptable...
Some additional thoughts. Waveguide can come even closer to the midbass and then it will be further away from top edge which would be good. Now it looks like it has equal distance from all three sides which is bad from diffraction perspective....Plus Revelators will have to be at exact point to remove 3/4 WL TL resonance. And then CTC distance comes into play....but I'm yet far from developing crossover.... 🙂
Some additional thoughts. Waveguide can come even closer to the midbass and then it will be further away from top edge which would be good. Now it looks like it has equal distance from all three sides which is bad from diffraction perspective....Plus Revelators will have to be at exact point to remove 3/4 WL TL resonance. And then CTC distance comes into play....but I'm yet far from developing crossover.... 🙂
Waveguide weekend. Illuminators dismantled without injuries...also made trumpets from MDF. Boxes are assembled. There will be some sounds soon...😀
One router bit digital to analog converter 😀
Illuminators in parts, nice looking motor structure underneath...
Perfect fit...I must paint waveguides, too much dust....
Back side, maybe not so perfect fit, I misaligned 6 holes for pressing the tweeters with aluminum cover....hand drill will work...
One router bit digital to analog converter 😀
Illuminators in parts, nice looking motor structure underneath...
Perfect fit...I must paint waveguides, too much dust....
Back side, maybe not so perfect fit, I misaligned 6 holes for pressing the tweeters with aluminum cover....hand drill will work...
I'm screwed. 🙂
220 screws and 20 meters of sealing tape later finally some shape that looks like a loudspeaker....just have to buy some XPS styrofoam to make rounded edges and ready to make some measurments....
And construction is getting heavy to move around...
220 screws and 20 meters of sealing tape later finally some shape that looks like a loudspeaker....just have to buy some XPS styrofoam to make rounded edges and ready to make some measurments....
And construction is getting heavy to move around...
Trumpets got primer layer to close the MDF before final black paint. Now they look very vintage-ish. Tweeters have very nice tight fit into the hole. I could see that with some other tweeters additional sealing gaskets are necessary....
How is with SS 3004/6600 ? If something is wrong will I see it in measured response?
How is with SS 3004/6600 ? If something is wrong will I see it in measured response?
Do you have foto from the rear side?
For 6600 + WG, the throat must sit airtight to the gasket around the surround.
I also recommend to seal 3holes and the faceplate and all gaps between the rear plastic cap and the tweeter body.
For 6600 + WG, the throat must sit airtight to the gasket around the surround.
I also recommend to seal 3holes and the faceplate and all gaps between the rear plastic cap and the tweeter body.
Huh, bunch of photos, but not one from back. I did it according to augerpro's model. Tweeter fits in very tightly...Thank you, I will recheck these screw holes which are empty now after removal of alu frontplate....
