There is a TO220 metal film that can take 20W with cooling.
I will try it out and tell you.
The Virgo 1 has Polypropylen bass and midrange drivers and the position of that bass drivers is different.
The Virgo 2 has paper midrange and bass drivers. Yes, i think the Virgo 2 is better.
More dynamic and open, better soundstage, more resolution.
The placement of the woofers on the Virgo 1 was done by subjective experiment whereas the woofers of the Virgo 2 where placed by measurement .
I think i got a better transition to the midrange and less problems with " floor bounce".
On the other hand this is 20 years ago.
If you like the sound of the Virgo 1 and you got it for an affordable price you have a good speaker with unique capabilities.
I will try it out and tell you.
The Virgo 1 has Polypropylen bass and midrange drivers and the position of that bass drivers is different.
The Virgo 2 has paper midrange and bass drivers. Yes, i think the Virgo 2 is better.
More dynamic and open, better soundstage, more resolution.
The placement of the woofers on the Virgo 1 was done by subjective experiment whereas the woofers of the Virgo 2 where placed by measurement .
I think i got a better transition to the midrange and less problems with " floor bounce".
On the other hand this is 20 years ago.
If you like the sound of the Virgo 1 and you got it for an affordable price you have a good speaker with unique capabilities.
I won't argue that in your thread, but - would you not agree that the significance is of the resistor is much smaller than the difference between two different models of drivers, or certainly drastically smaller than the difference between two rooms? The difference between CD and vinyl, the difference between cabinet construction techniques - so many factors come before resistors in importance, it seems like a fool's errand to chase after better resistors?
I've yet to find any speaker that I thought was good enough in other areas to warrant such fine tuning - but - I have to admin I dislike most speakers and they give me a headache, so I'm not the most generous listener...
Floor bounce cancellation, to my ears, is FAR larger problem than even the very worst resistors possible (assuming they are of the correct value and not high enough inductance to affect the crossover noticeably).
What speakers do you use ?
I agree, when the speaker is not well engineered no exotic component can help.
It is a bit like wine tasting or cooking. Good components can help ones the basic problems are solved. Using a cap that is more expensive then the driver makes no sense to me.
On the other hand i hear differences in components. How much ?
I agree, when the speaker is not well engineered no exotic component can help.
It is a bit like wine tasting or cooking. Good components can help ones the basic problems are solved. Using a cap that is more expensive then the driver makes no sense to me.
On the other hand i hear differences in components. How much ?
A fantastic thread--as a complete newb, leaned more here than from a couple of books. I teach nursing and respiratory therapy students and while they often prefer--nay demand--ligh weight powerpoint presentations covering the usual do and don'ts, aint nothing like a great case study--here in triplicate--to push my scrawny understanding a football field forward. Much appreciated. And I will get with meniscus and buy the satori tweets for a 2.5 project using usher 6.5's Were I not so deep into this project already with cabs and drivers, would have gone SBA all the way. Am gonna paint those decoupler flangers a color other than white!
Thanks to all for all the insight gleaned with these "open" projects. Way cool!
Thanks to all for all the insight gleaned with these "open" projects. Way cool!
Mr. Gerhard, any idea when this kit will become available for sale? Is SB going to sell it via their dealers, i.e. Madisound, Meniscus, etc.?
Is this kit going to be sold with the fancy cabinets already built and pre-finished? Will the kit sell with Mundorf crossover parts? Any idea on how much it will cost?
Is this kit going to be sold with the fancy cabinets already built and pre-finished? Will the kit sell with Mundorf crossover parts? Any idea on how much it will cost?
Joachim,
Thank you for this most informative thread. I have used the less expensive SB Acoustics drivers, and find them to be a great value. I have only just discovered the Satori line.
I am quite interested in the decoupling mount for the Satori tweeter. I have found driver mounting to have a profound effect on articulation, "speed" and "PRaT". Naim have often used metL springs to decouple the tweeter from woofer- induced front baffle vibration. Does the Satori use a metAl spring? I hope it is not an elastomer, which has hysteresis and induces "distortion" due to nonlineRrity.
Charlie. (In USA Pacific time zone)
Thank you for this most informative thread. I have used the less expensive SB Acoustics drivers, and find them to be a great value. I have only just discovered the Satori line.
I am quite interested in the decoupling mount for the Satori tweeter. I have found driver mounting to have a profound effect on articulation, "speed" and "PRaT". Naim have often used metL springs to decouple the tweeter from woofer- induced front baffle vibration. Does the Satori use a metAl spring? I hope it is not an elastomer, which has hysteresis and induces "distortion" due to nonlineRrity.
Charlie. (In USA Pacific time zone)
I also notice that SB uses mounting "lands" at each bolt hole. I assume this is very good. I have always had to use a washer under each bolt to keep the mechanical interface hard, tight, and linear. If the entire frame contacts the front board, the interface can become time-variant due to vibration of both - and thus non-linear. It can really add to the articulation of the speaker system. So SB is doing some good things.
Chsrlie
Chsrlie
Joaquim--I'll be interested in hearing what you find out. Tapping the actual tweeter vs the mounting ring produces very dissimilar sounds--the tweeter being much more damped. Also cant pick up any vibration by feel that is crossing over from one to the other so I think the decoupling claim is legit but would obviously want to see some real data before reaching that conclusion.
Also, I am Not sure if the broad flange of the tweeter is indeed floating on some viscoelastic material which covers the inside bearing surface of the mounting ring but again quite different responses to the po mans impulse test. Certainly a lot of what high end speakerdesign seems to be focusing these days on is exotic and multiple materials within the cabinetry itself, but in addition using (Von Schweikert IIRC) viscoelastic clays borrowed from submarine hull deadening efforts to "float" mount driver as opposed to screwing them directly to the baffle.
PS: With luck I will get my speakers put together over the w/e but the weather here in New Mexico has been splendid of late and the camping siren calls. Definitely no later than next week. When done I'll stat a new thread and post a link here. It will be interesting to see how the more pedestrian Usher woofers work with the Satori tweeters. Both drivers are butt ugly thats for sure--these are the ushers with no phase plugs or proper dust cap and the Sartori tweeters with the dimple. Such unprepossessing drivers just got to sound great--no shiny copper phalluses or high tech "antennae" here. Might be like wives--the best looking, blinged to the hilt may not make fo lasting matrimonial harmony. At least thats the hope--no way did I stat out in quest for the funkiest looking drives i could find. Just ended up that way.
