Hifijim thanks for reply. I am not sure which resistor is in series with the hf speaker can you identify which R number it is.
Hi Paul sorry to bother you again but I notice that R1 is 47.0 ohms is that correct as it seems very high.
As you know I don't know much about crossovers so forgive me if it's a silly question.
Actually looking at the schematic, there is no resister in line with the tweeter. You could add one between the input and C3. Not much, start with 1 ohm.
Any resistor added to this circuit will alter the shape, phase, and response. Adding a resistor to the amp-side (rather than tweeter side) is the least disruptive way to attenuate.
You could also install an adjustable L-pad. I have never used one, but other people have had good results.
Any resistor added to this circuit will alter the shape, phase, and response. Adding a resistor to the amp-side (rather than tweeter side) is the least disruptive way to attenuate.
You could also install an adjustable L-pad. I have never used one, but other people have had good results.
Oh wait, you were talking about increasing tweeter output. Since there is no attenuation on that tweeter, I can't see an easy way to increase tweeter output.
Yes, R1 is 47 ohms. It's in parallel with C2 and the woofer's coil. It's not a resistor that's intended to lower the signal going to the woofer like a resistor in series with a tweeter or midrange driver. It's been 12 years since I built the Sonatello and I don't remember specifically what its purpose is, perhaps some amount of damping, but it definitely should be there and that's the way I built it.
Paul
Hi Paul Thanks for all your help.
I think that perhaps your design is the one I should go for.
As I said before I intend to build it as a ported design and as I will be placing close to the back wall and my cabinet will be much slimmer I can afford to move the bass unit up a bit to avoid too much room gain.
I think that perhaps your design is the one I should go for.
As I said before I intend to build it as a ported design and as I will be placing close to the back wall and my cabinet will be much slimmer I can afford to move the bass unit up a bit to avoid too much room gain.
If you do what you describe using the same drivers and crossover as in the Sonatello, you may not be happy with the results. Placing them close to the wall will not be an issue. Moving the woofer up a small amount may not be problematic, but the air velocity in the port will be significantly higher than in the terminus of the tapered TL in my build. Also, unless the modeling software you use to make it a ported design also takes into account internal dimensions of the cabinet and locations of woofer and port like the TL modeling software from Martin King I use, you may cause some problems in the overall smoothness of the woofer's response.
Paul
Let me explain a bit further. The Sonatello was designed with the woofer low on the baffle in order to benefit from the floor boundary and not need as much BSC and result in a higher sensitivity. Then the crossover was designed to optimize the system response with the other drivers, especially the midrange, based on their locations. If the woofer is moved up very much those two design accommodations may not work out well. With the three drivers located as I built the Sonatello, one could design it as an ML-TL, which is in essence an optimized ported box that takes into account the internal dimensions of the enclosure, not just only the enclosure's volume, and the woofer and port relative locations which affect the overall bass response shape up to 1 kHz. Typical ported box design software or equations do not allow such optimization. As I have shown you with photos, the backs of my speakers are also located close to the wall, yet sounded just as good to my ears at DIY events where they aren't so located.
Paul
Hi Paul
Thanks for explanation.
Understand what you are saying.
It's just that I will get more room gain from a slimmer cabinet and thought I could reduce it again by moving the bass unit up.
Thanks for explanation.
Understand what you are saying.
It's just that I will get more room gain from a slimmer cabinet and thought I could reduce it again by moving the bass unit up.
Hi..Ugg10
May I ask. The woofer (SB23NRXS45-8) and midrange used are old products, so now the same product series is a new product but with the NOREX version (SB23NRXS45-8 Norex Speaker). Can I use a driver of the same series but a new version without changing the crossover?
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