If J113s
"Because J113 is 35V rated don't use higher than 28VAC transformer. Thus the Ubib's suggested max output shortens to 33VDC for good enough Vin-Vout margin when using this JFET type."
"Because J113 is 35V rated don't use higher than 28VAC transformer. Thus the Ubib's suggested max output shortens to 33VDC for good enough Vin-Vout margin when using this JFET type."
hi salas,
i measured again, it will be around 20cm, so longer than i predicted.
how thick should the cables be? or should i better change the setup to get shorter length?
and do you twist all cables from and to the psu? (sorry for the really beginner question 😉
thanks, kind regards!
i measured again, it will be around 20cm, so longer than i predicted.
how thick should the cables be? or should i better change the setup to get shorter length?
and do you twist all cables from and to the psu? (sorry for the really beginner question 😉
thanks, kind regards!
Nearer to 10cm length would be better if you can rearrange enough. Use AWG 14 or about so.
AC cables to PSU you twist, DC ones out of the PSU you don't need to twist. They don't create radiating fields. Just tie them together per output pair for maintaining a narrow loop area.
AC cables to PSU you twist, DC ones out of the PSU you don't need to twist. They don't create radiating fields. Just tie them together per output pair for maintaining a narrow loop area.
I seem to have populated a board with green LEDs. I know (think) this will give a higher voltage reference? By 0.4v or so.
Are they ok or should I swap in red ones. I thought I remember seeing someone populate neg rail green and pos rail red but maybe that was another thread!
Are they ok or should I swap in red ones. I thought I remember seeing someone populate neg rail green and pos rail red but maybe that was another thread!
Green are also ok if you're not going for 5V minimum voltage setting. I don't remember that build. Maybe he populated with different colors to make the positive and negative PSU visually distinct.
36v across C1. 30v in.
Yes, J's are PF5102s. 30v is a bit higher than I need. I should be using 24v tranny but it's what I have for now.
Going to pull Q2 and all the other Js and Qs I haven't checked before trying it again.
30V is AC. Measured at the input of the Ubib. C1 is 35V DC.
Pulled all the remaining Qs and Js. Q2 was good as were all the rest, except for Q3 which was bad.
Total so far- M1 and Q3 went bad, the rest were good. I'll add them back in with a new Q3 and see how it goes.
Pulled all the remaining Qs and Js. Q2 was good as were all the rest, except for Q3 which was bad.
Total so far- M1 and Q3 went bad, the rest were good. I'll add them back in with a new Q3 and see how it goes.
No, could have been soldering or de-soldering. I use Hakko equipment for both. Maybe just my error.
Hello Salas!
I am new to diyaudio.com and have yet to master electronics or circuit design.
Nevertheless, I wanted to build an external PSU unit with two different voltage outputs of 24v and 12v at a maximum of 0.5A for each output.
Is this design suitable for my needs?
If yes, I would also like to inquire about ordering the boards.
Thank you beforehand!
I am new to diyaudio.com and have yet to master electronics or circuit design.
Nevertheless, I wanted to build an external PSU unit with two different voltage outputs of 24v and 12v at a maximum of 0.5A for each output.
Is this design suitable for my needs?
If yes, I would also like to inquire about ordering the boards.
Thank you beforehand!
Hello,
Yes, it's suitable. The board includes two positive sections and one negative, so one board will cover your plan
All essential info about this design and its practical application is concentrated in post #1
Boards and key components are ordered from time to time in a group buy organized by member Tea-Bag
You could PM him for availability
Yes, it's suitable. The board includes two positive sections and one negative, so one board will cover your plan
All essential info about this design and its practical application is concentrated in post #1
Boards and key components are ordered from time to time in a group buy organized by member Tea-Bag
You could PM him for availability
15/5/20 BC560C became EOL. But GB long term supply is secure. BC559 can be used up to 30V output. BC556 for 31V-45V output.
Hi,
I just finished the BA-3 preamp with Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator.
This combo is mind-blowing, the best preamp I ever built/had.
Big thanks to Salas for this excellent project.
I would like to test this regulator with my other system.
I need to get +-12 volts but I have only 2x 22V trafo at this moment.
Can drop almost 18V at regulators - standby current 40mA and the peak 200mA (peak for max 5 seconds every few minutes)?
I have plenty of heatsink.
I just finished the BA-3 preamp with Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator.
This combo is mind-blowing, the best preamp I ever built/had.
Big thanks to Salas for this excellent project.
I would like to test this regulator with my other system.
I need to get +-12 volts but I have only 2x 22V trafo at this moment.
Can drop almost 18V at regulators - standby current 40mA and the peak 200mA (peak for max 5 seconds every few minutes)?
I have plenty of heatsink.