So you definitely don't believe that a poor construction of the transformers could be the cause of this low level noise. I was wondering about their substitution with a Toroidy with three secondaries and see if it works well. By the way I remember that during the assembling, while I tested the device on the wooden plate and outside the aluminium box (with ground not connected in any way), the hum was present the same.
Many thanks, Gaetano.
Many thanks, Gaetano.
It could be the cause but its not something to be concluded before eliminating other scenarios. Changing the transformers involves cost. Its a risk you may take but I can't recommend it as the solution without hard data. Can be a ground loop between a DAC supply and the Korg B1's external supply for instance. On the other the hand buzzing weak transformers can be changed just because annoying and not inspiring trust in a best quality result.
The 100C core temperature continuous ID limit for the FQP3P20 is 1.77A and 2A for FQPN30 as M1s and you can push them when having enough sinking for them as the ID max goes up when cooler inside. The spare current (current limit CCS seting - load pk current draw) can remain low circa 100mA to 150mA since the Zo spec is very good with little spare and you save on output Mosfet's heat at least.
Got the info
If the regulator is always powered on, are there non-audio grade alternative capacitors that have a higher rated endurance at maybe 105c rather than the 1000h@85c (I think) for the ones that come with the group buy kit? I've had the UltraBiB powered on for almost 2 years now and it's past the rated capacitor lifespan with the caps running at 50c. Things sound fine as far as I can tell but it's bugging me a little. Thanks in advance for any help!
Edit: Just measured the caps and they are at about 45c and 40c, leaving me right at the typical eol - not the happiest situation either
Edit: Just measured the caps and they are at about 45c and 40c, leaving me right at the typical eol - not the happiest situation either
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Rule of thumb for electrolytic capacitors lifespan is doubling expectancy with every 10C lower temperature than nominal spec. Datasheets rate their useful life at their max recommended temperature and voltage. In other words 1000h@85C rating translates to 2000h@75C 4000h@65C 8000h@55C 16000h@45C.
There is also an alternative listing for specific value and voltage Panasonic FM C2 C3 in the guide and you can freely use 105C type for C1 too.
There is also an alternative listing for specific value and voltage Panasonic FM C2 C3 in the guide and you can freely use 105C type for C1 too.
Hello,
Would you guys share the gerber files, or that is closed?
I'm just ordering a few pcb and would like to make some of the best possible psu for it if possible. + - 15V would be needed for a headphone amplifier. Previously, my solid state headphone amplifiers were failing on the power supplies, now I would make the best I can.
Thanks!!
JG
Would you guys share the gerber files, or that is closed?
I'm just ordering a few pcb and would like to make some of the best possible psu for it if possible. + - 15V would be needed for a headphone amplifier. Previously, my solid state headphone amplifiers were failing on the power supplies, now I would make the best I can.
Thanks!!
JG
Last GB has just passed. Ask Tea-Bag if he has any left. About comparison to Jung maybe someone else has done it. I designed all shunt regs standalone not to any other reference more than their previous own line. Shunt and series are architecturally different anyway. Jung is series.
Rule of thumb for electrolytic capacitors lifespan is doubling expectancy with every 10C lower temperature than nominal spec. Datasheets rate their useful life at their max recommended temperature and voltage. In other words 1000h@85C rating translates to 2000h@75C 4000h@65C 8000h@55C 16000h@45C.
There is also an alternative listing for specific value and voltage Panasonic FM C2 C3 in the guide and you can freely use 105C type for C1 too.
Thanks! If they go out I'll just grab some longer endurance caps and those should last quite a very long time. In general, when do I have to replace c1-3 for things to work more or less normally? Do I have to replace the caps after nominal lifespan?
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