Thanks! I have small heat shrink and will first place the legenburg in it side by side.
I wish I had a decent USB ADC to record the different implementations. Audiodiffmaker could then play back the difference between them. Using the mic input on a laptop yields terrible results.
I wish I had a decent USB ADC to record the different implementations. Audiodiffmaker could then play back the difference between them. Using the mic input on a laptop yields terrible results.
Try 1000 uf Silmic II and Ero 1837 after the Shunt. Yes I know that big caps is nono after shunts but try.
You will wonder.
You will wonder.
Will have to try it.
There are a couple of changes in the loop first though. Tonight is replacing stranded and twisted wiring for the LED noise filter caps to side by side solid core rectangular OCC.
The off board FT-3 Teflon sounds great.
There are a couple of changes in the loop first though. Tonight is replacing stranded and twisted wiring for the LED noise filter caps to side by side solid core rectangular OCC.
The off board FT-3 Teflon sounds great.
OWith the AndrewT wiring suggestion it is spectacular. Much less noise with the parallel legenburg 24 awg equivalent wire in heat shrink vs stranded 18 awg. Really good clarity, tight deep bass, excellent extension.
The mkp is a very good choice. The ft-3 is simply better in every way. I still preferred the ft3 with the stranded wire I tightly twisted to the wima but now the choice is obvious.
The mkp is a very good choice. The ft-3 is simply better in every way. I still preferred the ft3 with the stranded wire I tightly twisted to the wima but now the choice is obvious.
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So you used opposite wires spanning the cap's length extending to the board in wide fashion? Is that correct? Dimkasta had the cap tied above the pads in a cradle with short extensions.
The caps are under the RCA inputs, inside the chassis. The board is on top of the chassis.
The wire is a pair of 24 awg neotech legenburg (rectangular) occ copper wire with Teflon insulation placed face to face inside a small heat shrink for each cap. The wire is 10" to 1 foot in length. The issue with my build is the layout. It could have been very short with a bigger chassis. My chassis is so small, the potted toroid sits directly under the 0.22 uF caps. There is no way the caps could be closer in my build.
I have nichicn kz Muse N the 1000 uF at 25 V size. I don't think the leads will fit the holes in the board. Much thanks to dimkatsa for suggesting ft3, AndrewT for the wiring geometry and erland for steering me away from stranded wire.
The wire is a pair of 24 awg neotech legenburg (rectangular) occ copper wire with Teflon insulation placed face to face inside a small heat shrink for each cap. The wire is 10" to 1 foot in length. The issue with my build is the layout. It could have been very short with a bigger chassis. My chassis is so small, the potted toroid sits directly under the 0.22 uF caps. There is no way the caps could be closer in my build.
I have nichicn kz Muse N the 1000 uF at 25 V size. I don't think the leads will fit the holes in the board. Much thanks to dimkatsa for suggesting ft3, AndrewT for the wiring geometry and erland for steering me away from stranded wire.
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Can you post a picture so some builders can replicate if facing tight circumstances and got some big aspiring cap they would want to test best wired in some distance?
Erland,
What bias level are you at? I am considering 600 ma but my transformer is only 80 VA 2x 15V. The Teflon caps like to be powered 24x7. Maybe going 120 VA is necessary to avoid problems turning it off.
What bias level are you at? I am considering 600 ma but my transformer is only 80 VA 2x 15V. The Teflon caps like to be powered 24x7. Maybe going 120 VA is necessary to avoid problems turning it off.
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I would like to see your implementation.
I expected quite subtle effects due to reduced interference pick-up.
What you are reporting is way beyond what I could explain by science.
I expected quite subtle effects due to reduced interference pick-up.
What you are reporting is way beyond what I could explain by science.
I think the main difference is the regular 18 awg stranded hookup wire vs the solid core. Since the wire was 18awg and could not be soldered directly to the PCB, I mounted some single pole connectors similar to those used on the input and output wiring to the location of the 0.22uF cap.
The solid core was soldered directly to the PCB -- another difference.
The stranded implementation softened transients and darkened the sound.
The solid core implementation sounds a whole lot more like the original Wima MKP, except that the detail is better overall and more transparent. Piano really sounds terrific, whereas with the stranded twisted wire, it had less clarity. The Wima does not quite have the detail of the teflon.
For want of better words, the MKP was vivid and dynamic, but a little 'cartoon-like'. The Teflon is now vivid and dynamic but more transparent/realistic. With the stranded implementation it was darker, slower, less vivid/dynamic..
That's about it.
Could all just be crazy confirmation bias too. I will ask a buddy over who is very familiar with the system, and not tell him I did anything.
The solid core was soldered directly to the PCB -- another difference.
The stranded implementation softened transients and darkened the sound.
The solid core implementation sounds a whole lot more like the original Wima MKP, except that the detail is better overall and more transparent. Piano really sounds terrific, whereas with the stranded twisted wire, it had less clarity. The Wima does not quite have the detail of the teflon.
For want of better words, the MKP was vivid and dynamic, but a little 'cartoon-like'. The Teflon is now vivid and dynamic but more transparent/realistic. With the stranded implementation it was darker, slower, less vivid/dynamic..
That's about it.
Could all just be crazy confirmation bias too. I will ask a buddy over who is very familiar with the system, and not tell him I did anything.
Sorry for the off topic post... Andrew, is there a thread where you have discussed your observations/results/designs/experiments with the cat5e wire and its different configurations? Thanks.
Buddy says the teflon cap is much more neutral than the MKP. I wholeheartedly agree.
I'll find a camera and take some shots.
I'll find a camera and take some shots.
Generally I only use close coupled pairs, or twisted.
I don't believe any of the "weird" configurations can offer any advantages for low loop area.
I recently volunteered some measurements of capacitance for CAT5. Have posted a few preliminary results for twisted and combinations of twisted.
I don't believe any of the "weird" configurations can offer any advantages for low loop area.
I recently volunteered some measurements of capacitance for CAT5. Have posted a few preliminary results for twisted and combinations of twisted.
I did a search for power consumption of the hot rod DCB1 on this topic and googled for it as well, but both gave me no usable results. Has anyone measured the actual power consumption (for preferably for a 200mA shunting version)?
My version is about 180mA (11 ohm) and eats 8.6W from connector, but I'm using a 12V trafo, not 15.
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I ALWAYS used to use shielded cable but have recently tried closely twisted pairs. I can't say they are any better but they certainly aren't any worse.