Relay flyback diode measurement is way off. Looks like Za is way off as well. What constitutes healthy Vbe for Qa?
It should also measure something big when the delay circuit+output relay are on and good. A figure like 10V-12V.no flyback diode only measures 1.3 volts. The diodes on the I-select measure 12 volts, once they are switched to, otherwise they measure zero.
Possibly one of those. Or an error in one or more of the three LEDs. Wrong LED cathode orientation, or broken, something. But you say the LEDs light up.maybe relay flyback diode, Qa and Za all bad?
Only to know if there's no signal output due to a broken input route. From IN to J1's Gate pin.not sure what you want me to measure here? There is a 3.3k resistor there. It indeed measures correctly.
We look for DC1.3 volts A/C above ( post #6235) doesnt look right. I dont know about the Qa measurement of 3 mV, or Za meaurement of 4.3?
There could be a current path through a broken Qa but still without enough voltage drop to kick the relay.would the leds work if wrong orientation, broken etc? they light up fine
Take action, test the diode the Zener and the transistor. If you have a component tester pull them out and test. There are also test ways with only a DMM you can Google up.
If this relay's coil is healthy it should measure around 1-1.5kΩ when not obstructed or paralleled by a conductive component.
In general I don't advise anybody to replace things blindly before testing the components so to learn debugging for the culprit. But you may as well do what you please. What if its a cold joint for instance? Better to be in the know.Replace Qa? May as well order relay, some Xtra flyback diode, and Za along with it
Guess it's time to remove preamp board. Good excuse to get the extra goop off the heatsink. Since I would have to prove those pieces to test, I think I will just replace them.
The heatsink is not yet screwed to chassis, so by loosening the 6 wires from PS, removing screws to standoffs entire heatsink preamp board can be removed. I will reattach it temporarily with longer wires so I can work on it "out of chassis."
Here's the 3 LEDs. They light right up on fire up.
The heatsink is not yet screwed to chassis, so by loosening the 6 wires from PS, removing screws to standoffs entire heatsink preamp board can be removed. I will reattach it temporarily with longer wires so I can work on it "out of chassis."
Here's the 3 LEDs. They light right up on fire up.
Attachments
That makes good sense. It will be easier to work on with the extended wires from PS. Then I can work on it free from the confines of the chassis. To change something on board I can just flip it over. And, as you say the components can be tested. These were simple parts, usually I will kill the rarest, most closely matched items!In general I don't advise anybody to replace things blindly before testing the components so to learn debugging for the culprit. But you may as well do what you please. What if its a cold joint for instance? Better to be in the know.
Russellc
That is exactly what is going on. LEDs light just before light bars on PS if I remember correctly.If there's no 5sec delay until they light up after you hit power "on" its further proof that the delay circuit isn't doing its job.
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