Good idea. There is not much to have a diagram as there is +v power supply. Use a 19v laptop brick of you have one lying around. If the SSR PSU is not tied to the amp PSU then you won’t have turn on thump prevention. However, as externally mounted speaker protection, it doesn’t matter where it’s mounted. It just needs >18v and 20mA to work.
The $100 price was for folks who placed preorders before manufacturing. Now that they have been made, price is $120/pair. I have them in stock and ready to ship. There is free global shipping for 3 pairs. And sale of (pre order pricing) $100/pair and free shipping for 5 pairs.
I just realized that I never posted the schematics and for this unit (Gen 4). PM me if you need the BOM (since it is fully built, I am not sure what you would need that for).
The schematics are useful to show how to assemble the low capacitance PSU for no turn off thump.
The schematics are useful to show how to assemble the low capacitance PSU for no turn off thump.
Thanks! You posted the schematic before I could ask! I received my pair SSRs some time ago, but is just now wanting to put them to use.
As for BOM, it is always wise to file the BOM and schematic for future repairs (keeping our fingers crossed).
As for BOM, it is always wise to file the BOM and schematic for future repairs (keeping our fingers crossed).
Hi X,
A quick note to let you know that the 6- RTR SSR boards with the psu's were waiting for me when I returned from Mexico. There was extensive damage to the small box, but none of the single anti static packages were damaged. Back to building soon I hope.
MM
A quick note to let you know that the 6- RTR SSR boards with the psu's were waiting for me when I returned from Mexico. There was extensive damage to the small box, but none of the single anti static packages were damaged. Back to building soon I hope.
MM
Would someone please give me the Molex part numbers (male & female) for the connectors found on the little power supply board.
Molex KK
**edit: realized he asked about the little power supply not the speaker protect board
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This might be simpler:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2656832085...Y9mcKZ3Rq-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2656832085...Y9mcKZ3Rq-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I'm testing the Quick Bleed down Aux Supply that came with the RTR SSR before installing. At connector J2 I get that pin 1 and pin 3 connect to AC from the transformer secondary, but what does pin 2 COM connect to?
Okay, I think I get it now. I was going to test the aux supply with a spare transformer in which case I would have needed to populate D1 and D2 with no connection to COM. Instead I just connected the aux supply board in the amp where it belongs, at J2 I connected Pin 1 AC, and Pin 3 AC to a transformer secondary, and ran COM (Pin 2) back to main PSU ground (No D1, D2). Works as it should.
Better yet…the Aux PS is now powering the RTR SSR speaker protection retrofitted into my Aleph J. I had an issue with the amp having a turn-off spike. That’s been resolved.
hi
can not get the aux supply to work i think the U1 opto is gone ( the on delay board is working fine ) with the jumper installed 63vdc feed the board from amp
i use extern a little trafo so i have 20vdc out on the aux ----- led is on
j3 2 + goes to A on the U1 opto
any idear on what i have done wrong
i can not measure anything with diode tester on the U1 opto so i thing it is gone
can not get the aux supply to work i think the U1 opto is gone ( the on delay board is working fine ) with the jumper installed 63vdc feed the board from amp
i use extern a little trafo so i have 20vdc out on the aux ----- led is on
j3 2 + goes to A on the U1 opto
any idear on what i have done wrong
i can not measure anything with diode tester on the U1 opto so i thing it is gone
Let’s see what your problem is - trying to follow your notes here. What does “J3 2 + goes to A on U1” mean? J3 pin 2 positive to anode on U1?
I think you are asking why it doesn’t work when you apply +2v to X1 pin 2 which goes to the anode of U1?
Note that to use X1 for external enable, the note says that 2mA is required. I would use more than 2v maybe 3.3v minimum. Ideally a 5v open collector logic from a MCU is great if you have it. In those cases, the MCU open collector logic goes to K (cathode) and Anode goes to 5v supply. (OC sinks current from a source, here it is 5v on Anode of LED). You also need to remove J1 jumper for external enable. If you leave J1 and the LED glows, it is operating normally. It’s very hard to blow U1. It’s an LED on one side and a photodiode on the other (and that’s not connected to the input) and how often do you see a LED getting damaged?
Hope that helps. If you suspect it is damaged just install J1 and see if it works passively by applying DC to amp input and see if it cuts out (LED goes off).
I think you are asking why it doesn’t work when you apply +2v to X1 pin 2 which goes to the anode of U1?
Note that to use X1 for external enable, the note says that 2mA is required. I would use more than 2v maybe 3.3v minimum. Ideally a 5v open collector logic from a MCU is great if you have it. In those cases, the MCU open collector logic goes to K (cathode) and Anode goes to 5v supply. (OC sinks current from a source, here it is 5v on Anode of LED). You also need to remove J1 jumper for external enable. If you leave J1 and the LED glows, it is operating normally. It’s very hard to blow U1. It’s an LED on one side and a photodiode on the other (and that’s not connected to the input) and how often do you see a LED getting damaged?
Hope that helps. If you suspect it is damaged just install J1 and see if it works passively by applying DC to amp input and see if it cuts out (LED goes off).
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thanks
i am sure i have made a mistake.. gave the x1 20vdc from the aux board -- i use a trafo with 12vac ---to the aux board
as you explain i shall omly have about 3 to 5vdc to x1 so i need to use a resistor to give the 2ma --- if i calculate that rigth this resistor must be 10kohm --
does that sound right
best Bjarne
i am sure i have made a mistake.. gave the x1 20vdc from the aux board -- i use a trafo with 12vac ---to the aux board
as you explain i shall omly have about 3 to 5vdc to x1 so i need to use a resistor to give the 2ma --- if i calculate that rigth this resistor must be 10kohm --
does that sound right
best Bjarne
Yes, 10k is good. If you applied 20v without a current limit resistor, you may have damaged the LED on U1. You can also control it with a simple relay on J1. If relay is off, the SSR will be off.