Hi xrk, I'm not living in very dusty environment, but there is always a thin layer of dust to be removed every week, could be the fact that I live relatively nearby steel factory which is poisoning all around at slow tempo...
I had made in the past small Dayton full-range speakers that attracted a lot of dust around the voice coil, so before sale, I had to vacuum clean and brush-off residue to at least look like new...
To say, I would like to try again one full-range project with bigger driver, preferably with dust-cap cover for convenience
Those are Dayton's PS-95 I had designed with double bass ports...
Is it possible that it's steel dust, hence magnetic? On the system I have at work I have the same worry because of the cast iron fettling downstairs.
Some progress on the baffles - my cabinet maker was not happy with how the flush rebates on the pincushion shaped bezel looked so he started over on the baffles and this time, made a template using a precision scroll saw. Then the template was used with a router to do the flush rebates. The baffles are now done and the overall assembly of the cabinets remains to be done.
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Hi Signal Lost,
Those are nice boxes you made - stain is tricky. I like using dark stains because I can always add more to cover up the light spots. It helps to use a pre-stain sealer on the wood. Glad that they are still sounding good to your ears. The second pair is for a gift for someone?
Those are nice boxes you made - stain is tricky. I like using dark stains because I can always add more to cover up the light spots. It helps to use a pre-stain sealer on the wood. Glad that they are still sounding good to your ears. The second pair is for a gift for someone?
It would be nice if my building skills allowed me to make a gift one of my siblings would proudly display in their homes. However I must be realistic. I had the wood and could make drawers for another project or speaker boxes. I tried miter cuts on the corners. Seven out of eight corners turned out good. So part of the purpose was to experiment with different building techniques, different finishes and learn a little about what I can do.
I'll post some pictures soon.
I'll post some pictures soon.
I have them in hand and they look great. Here are some details of the construction.
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This looks like a very interesting and good-sounding project!
I have two spare DC130BS-4s doing nothing. Apart from the ohm rating, they share similar specs to the DC130A which you've used in this build, but of course they may sound completely different. But they sound pretty good in my Tritrix MTMs.
Relevant specs (factory-supplied) with the BS-4 in brackets: Re 5.7 (3.55); Le 0.75 (0.5); Fs 53Hz (51.8Hz); Qts 0.41 (0.35); VAS 11.8 (13.2); BL 5.88 (4.8); SD 91.6 (93); Xmax 2.5 (2.5).
I would be using a Vifa BC25TG tweeter and have a first attempt crossover worked out.
Sound aside, would those specs be close enough to use in your TL cabinet for the DC130A in another thread? I have enough projects on my own 'to do' list but I'm just curious as to whether this could be a good idea for a smaller project for a musical niece.
Thank you
Geoff
I have two spare DC130BS-4s doing nothing. Apart from the ohm rating, they share similar specs to the DC130A which you've used in this build, but of course they may sound completely different. But they sound pretty good in my Tritrix MTMs.
Relevant specs (factory-supplied) with the BS-4 in brackets: Re 5.7 (3.55); Le 0.75 (0.5); Fs 53Hz (51.8Hz); Qts 0.41 (0.35); VAS 11.8 (13.2); BL 5.88 (4.8); SD 91.6 (93); Xmax 2.5 (2.5).
I would be using a Vifa BC25TG tweeter and have a first attempt crossover worked out.
Sound aside, would those specs be close enough to use in your TL cabinet for the DC130A in another thread? I have enough projects on my own 'to do' list but I'm just curious as to whether this could be a good idea for a smaller project for a musical niece.
Thank you
Geoff
I’m sure it could be made to work but your are in your own with the crossover. Whereas if you got the exact drivers I designed with, you are guaranteed a great sounding speaker without any fuss of re-doing the XO. The drivers are not expensive so you might save yourself a lot of time by getting the same ones... Unless you like designing XO’s. The main thing to note is the 5.5kHz asymmetric slope inverted Harsch-like XO I am using. It gives a nice step response.
I have those Vifa BG25’s also. Nice tweeters actually. I am using them with Peerless 6.5in NE1801W-8 in MTM. Have not built the cabinet for that but XO worked out for temporary baffle.
Yes, I think it should work fine in that TL. Maybe you might need to play around with the shelving function to balance the bass and highs.
I have those Vifa BG25’s also. Nice tweeters actually. I am using them with Peerless 6.5in NE1801W-8 in MTM. Have not built the cabinet for that but XO worked out for temporary baffle.
Yes, I think it should work fine in that TL. Maybe you might need to play around with the shelving function to balance the bass and highs.
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Thank you for such a quick reply.
I think the 'can I use these drivers instead' must be the bane of speaker designers' lives!
I've 'borrowed' my XO for the DC/Vifa combination from another DIY project, but your point about your XO characteristics is well made, thank you.
I could just do that project with the 0.25 cu ft cabinet which Curt Campbell designed for his Tritrix TM, but extra bass produced by your TL would be handy.
Unfortunately the drivers aren't that cheap in Oz: about $45 each for the DC130 and $75each for the RSTs, which would make it a relatively costly project for my purposes.
Cheers
Geoff
I think the 'can I use these drivers instead' must be the bane of speaker designers' lives!
I've 'borrowed' my XO for the DC/Vifa combination from another DIY project, but your point about your XO characteristics is well made, thank you.
I could just do that project with the 0.25 cu ft cabinet which Curt Campbell designed for his Tritrix TM, but extra bass produced by your TL would be handy.
Unfortunately the drivers aren't that cheap in Oz: about $45 each for the DC130 and $75each for the RSTs, which would make it a relatively costly project for my purposes.
Cheers
Geoff
That’s a shame the cost in Oz is so much higher. I know that PE could probably ship all those drivers to Oz for circa $60. Try pricing it direct from PE’s website. Might not be too bad. I shipped a pair of RS225 to Dhaka for $53. Those are much heavier.
I can’t help you with the unfavorable exchange rate.
I can’t help you with the unfavorable exchange rate.
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The $A v $US$ rate has been going down the S-bend for a few years now: when I bought my Dayton RS180Ps from the local agent in 2016, they were $60: now $110 and likewise for other parts sourced from the US. Hence my wish to use what's on hand.
US shipping to Oz has gone up, so combine that with the exchange rate and things aren't great.
However, there are still deals to be had. I picked up a pair of Peerless DA25 aluminium dome tweeters when they were Parts Express' Deal of the Day: the pair came out at $60 shipped, compared to $45 each locally.
Geoff
US shipping to Oz has gone up, so combine that with the exchange rate and things aren't great.
However, there are still deals to be had. I picked up a pair of Peerless DA25 aluminium dome tweeters when they were Parts Express' Deal of the Day: the pair came out at $60 shipped, compared to $45 each locally.
Geoff