Hi Bill,If you have the service manual look at the drawing and remove part #2 from the tray. It will then slide out. If you need the manual, email me.
thanks for your offer but the player's already in pieces....😀
I have been using the service manual which you sent me some time ago and I had already taken out #2 but the tray still won't slide out. It seems to be fixed or fastened somehow at the front end of the tray assembly where the brand name (Rotel) is. ...
The piece with Rotel on it pops right off the tray. I've had mine down to little pieces a few times, just keep fiddling with it. You'll figure it out, I wish I could be more specific but the details escape memory.
If you didn't know that, rotate the hidden cam until the tray unlocks and roll the tray forward.
Got it, I got the faceplate off and with a tiny bit of persuasion got the gears moving and can get the tray extended to its maximum but I can't figure out how to get it off the rails and i'm afraid to force it. Is there a trick to it?The piece with Rotel on it pops right off the tray. I've had mine down to little pieces a few times, just keep fiddling with it. You'll figure it out, I wish I could be more specific but the details escape memory.
It seems to be running up against something that stops it from over-extending. Frustrating because now I can see the leaf switches and the belt but don't yet have enough room to change them yet......
I don't know if already posted here, but I think this is something new. All Rotel, Classe and B&W service manuals here:
Service Manuals
Maybe moderators should put this as a stick![]()
Thank you for the link... hope I never need it but downloaded the 703 manual 🙂
Many thanks.
Got it, I got the faceplate off and with a tiny bit of persuasion got the gears moving and can get the tray extended to its maximum but I can't figure out how to get it off the rails and i'm afraid to force it. Is there a trick to it?
It seems to be running up against something that stops it from over-extending. Frustrating because now I can see the leaf switches and the belt but don't yet have enough room to change them yet......
Well, just for you😀 I took mine apart this morning.
There is a small tab on both sides of the tray that extend downwards. They contact small plastic ears that are part of the moulding that holds the cross shaft and gears that directly drive the tray. These small ears must be gently pried outward with small screwdrivers to let the tabs on the tray pass by. Be gentle, and the tray will fall out. After the tray is removed the gear cover must be removed. Pop the rear of the cover off, then slide the cover sideways until the removal slots are lined up with the tabs on the gear cover and it will fall off.
You can then remove the belt, remove the motor screws, pinch the plastic PCB retainer and remove the motor/ PCB assembly. Now you can get to the leaf switches, but you need some soldering skills. I would suggest purchasing a solder sucker from Radio Shack to remove the leaf switches. If you practice a little on something you will "get it". Once the solder is removed the switches will come out easily. If you know someone that can do it for you, all the better. The switches have slightly different size ears on each side so presumably you cannot install them backwards, but pay attention anyway.
It's a large PITA for a novice, aint it.😱
I tried to attach the drawing? New puter, hope it worked.
Attachments
Wow, thanks Bill! Much appreciated, I hope your player won't suffer for my lack of experience! I got the tray off and the PB off as per your directions and am ready to go. I assume I have to re-solder the switches in after inserting them.
Gotta train up on soldering first, this looks like a somewhat delicate job. Any advice on soldering irons, braid, etc? I saw a 45-watt desoldering iron in the RS catalog that has a bulb attached, is that the best one for this job?
Stay tuned......
Gotta train up on soldering first, this looks like a somewhat delicate job. Any advice on soldering irons, braid, etc? I saw a 45-watt desoldering iron in the RS catalog that has a bulb attached, is that the best one for this job?
Stay tuned......
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I have the one that looks like a syringe, spring loaded, works great.
45W is too big, 18 to 25 is all you need.
45W is too big, 18 to 25 is all you need.
You need plenty of heat to desolder properly with braid... I prefer a large tip even for fine work.
For a normal fixed temperature iron I would say 25 watts or so minimum.
This is what I use, which shows the braid.
Braid... get a decent width, it's surprising how it eats the solder.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/127924-working-smd-how-do-without-specialised-tools.html
For a normal fixed temperature iron I would say 25 watts or so minimum.
This is what I use, which shows the braid.
Braid... get a decent width, it's surprising how it eats the solder.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/127924-working-smd-how-do-without-specialised-tools.html
Have a 971 also, it and as far as I can tell, mopst every rotel gets the "fight the drawer" syndrome. I find it happens occasionally and then quits. Once in a while it starts on track 10 as well. Just every now and then, I've had it since new.
russellc
Replace "Play" button S353 😉
Attachments
Well, after having a go at it on my own and bollixing it up, I want to thanks Bill Fuss for coming to the rescue! He kindly offered to fix it for me and also also did some op amp and clock upgrades as well,. It now performs flawlessly and sounds great!
Many, many thanks Bill!
Many, many thanks Bill!
RCD 930 AX same problem, had a go without info
Hey same prob with my RCD 930 AX, had a go at fix without prior info. improved but prob returned, tray comes loose from teeth of gear wheels and has to be alighned at the right place to work properly. From reading this thread, Ive been chasing wrong problem, If fixable, will sell + look for 971 or maybe "991"? Looks slightly tricky, Any extra tricks for 930AX fix guys? thanxs KramHello,
I have RDC-951 with exactly the same symptoms. After reading this thread I was inspired to finally repair it. So I took it apart spent an hour trying to understand how the loading mechanism work. And sure enough - it's the belt problem. At the last phase, where it pulls the laser unit up, it starts slipping and doesn't get the the point where "loaded" switch is triggered.
Now the question:
WHERE I can get the replacement belt ? 🙂 Is this is something standard or only Rotel can give me one ?
Sincerely, M.
971 tray stop/posotion sensor ?
Guys I'm always late to the party.I have a nice 971 here that needed a new gear to open/close. Got that installed and it now opens and closes fine ,but won't spin. I have the bottom off and I think I may have found the stop switch sensor I will try to attach pics. I don't see any plastic extension here and wondered if I'm all wet or it may have broken off? Thanks a million. Would love to get this going. How do I best reduce pic size to under 1 mb on an android?I think my photos are way too big

Guys I'm always late to the party.I have a nice 971 here that needed a new gear to open/close. Got that installed and it now opens and closes fine ,but won't spin. I have the bottom off and I think I may have found the stop switch sensor I will try to attach pics. I don't see any plastic extension here and wondered if I'm all wet or it may have broken off? Thanks a million. Would love to get this going. How do I best reduce pic size to under 1 mb on an android?I think my photos are way too big

Sorry if it not relevant.
I also have same problem of 00. I buy CS8412 board and make it to DAC instead. Now it indirectly solve 00 problem. you can see how to connect CS8412 and PMD100 of Rotel in PMD100 Datasheet. Just do as the picture. it works fine.
I also have same problem of 00. I buy CS8412 board and make it to DAC instead. Now it indirectly solve 00 problem. you can see how to connect CS8412 and PMD100 of Rotel in PMD100 Datasheet. Just do as the picture. it works fine.
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