Elso, can you explain us how to adjust the duty cycle to 50%
My scope doesn't give the duty cycle of a signal, and since the waveform is a little assymetrical it's not very simple to do
That's what I did:
-scope input set to ground: set the spot on zero volt
-scope on AC: set the sensitivity to have a good resolution, and the time scale to have 2 periods displayed
-now, uncalibrate the timebase, in order to have a period on, say, 4 divisions.
-after that, turn the clock's pot in order to have the waveform crossing the X axis on 0, 2 and 4 divisions
Is this the good method?
My scope doesn't give the duty cycle of a signal, and since the waveform is a little assymetrical it's not very simple to do
That's what I did:
-scope input set to ground: set the spot on zero volt
-scope on AC: set the sensitivity to have a good resolution, and the time scale to have 2 periods displayed
-now, uncalibrate the timebase, in order to have a period on, say, 4 divisions.
-after that, turn the clock's pot in order to have the waveform crossing the X axis on 0, 2 and 4 divisions
Is this the good method?
Hi,
Any idea what speed scope is needed to see the waveform properly? We have a 40MHz one in the house, and we tried it on that, and you could make out some kind of repetitive pattern, but it was too crammed in and blurry to make out very well. It's working fine now so would any further adjustments make it run the cdp better?
Thanks,
Steve
Any idea what speed scope is needed to see the waveform properly? We have a 40MHz one in the house, and we tried it on that, and you could make out some kind of repetitive pattern, but it was too crammed in and blurry to make out very well. It's working fine now so would any further adjustments make it run the cdp better?
Thanks,
Steve
I have a 100MHz scope, but I think 40MHz should also work
Do you use the standard probe, or a self made one based on Elso's explanations (in the KC-7 zip file)?
Do you use the standard probe, or a self made one based on Elso's explanations (in the KC-7 zip file)?
I haven't tried the homemade one no, but I thought that using a standard probe just distorted it into a kind of triangular form, so I was expecting to see something. Ill have to try the homemade probe sometime then if you think 40MHz is enough.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
I would...It's just it works now n its nestled back in its place 🙁 and with any luck my valve amp kit should arrive tomorrow 😀 first amp project hurrah!! I will get round to some propper testing of it though, if not on mine then when my housemate gets round to building his.
Cheers,
Steve
Cheers,
Steve
Duty cycle
Hi, I meant adjusting the pot untill you get equal positive and negative sqaures. (Most symmetrical wave form.) It is almost self explanatory.😎
Bricolo said:Elso, can you explain us how to adjust the duty cycle to 50%
My scope doesn't give the duty cycle of a signal, and since the waveform is a little assymetrical it's not very simple to do
That's what I did:
-scope input set to ground: set the spot on zero volt
-scope on AC: set the sensitivity to have a good resolution, and the time scale to have 2 periods displayed
-now, uncalibrate the timebase, in order to have a period on, say, 4 divisions.
-after that, turn the clock's pot in order to have the waveform crossing the X axis on 0, 2 and 4 divisions
Is this the good method?
Hi, I meant adjusting the pot untill you get equal positive and negative sqaures. (Most symmetrical wave form.) It is almost self explanatory.😎
That's only that simple when when the square wave is symmetrical 😉
It's not the case here.
BTW, you have mail
It's not the case here.
BTW, you have mail
had all the parts lying around to make one for some time but the idea of p2p wiring stalled my progress
i have a small fotoboard2 pcb etching setup at home, and i just want to make one clean no b.s. kwak clock that will last me a while
so are there any pcb track layouts i can (secretly) get from anyone anywhere ?
regards keegan
i have a small fotoboard2 pcb etching setup at home, and i just want to make one clean no b.s. kwak clock that will last me a while
so are there any pcb track layouts i can (secretly) get from anyone anywhere ?
regards keegan
Pot
Just turn the d**** pot untill you get the best result!

Bricolo said:That's only that simple when when the square wave is symmetrical 😉
It's not the case here.
BTW, you have mail
Just turn the d**** pot untill you get the best result!

Elso,
I was saying that THIS isn't what I call a symmetrical squarewave
And I don't know how to adjust the duty cycle on something like that.
I was saying that THIS isn't what I call a symmetrical squarewave
And I don't know how to adjust the duty cycle on something like that.
Bricolo said:Elso,
I was saying that THIS isn't what I call a symmetrical squarewave
![]()
And I don't know how to adjust the duty cycle on something like that.
Hi Bricolo, If you are referring to the non flat tops and bottom you won't get that better by adjusting the pot.
I think your circuit will work fine.

I wans't asking how to have a better squarewave
But how to adjust the duty cycle of this signal.
But how to adjust the duty cycle of this signal.
Adjusting the Pot
Hii Bricolo, I am really at loss how to explain this better to you. <<Je suis désolé!>> Maybe other forum members who have built my clock can help you with the adjustment procedure.

Bricolo said:I wans't asking how to have a better squarewave
But how to adjust the duty cycle of this signal.
Hii Bricolo, I am really at loss how to explain this better to you. <<Je suis désolé!>> Maybe other forum members who have built my clock can help you with the adjustment procedure.

I think I didn't manage to explain what I wanted to do.
What I want to know, is the adjustment procedure. How to set the duty cycle to exactly 50%, how to adjust this with a scope
What I want to know, is the adjustment procedure. How to set the duty cycle to exactly 50%, how to adjust this with a scope
From what I gather, you turn the pot until the flanks of the wave are equal distances apart. As Elso says, the cdp only uses the flanks as a reference, so it shouldn't matter too much about the symetricalness about the time axis. I think you just try and get the time between each time the wave crosses over the center equal. AD8561 (i think thats the number, cant be a****d to look it up at the moment) is a comparator, and I think the 2k pot adjusts the reference voltage, at which point the comparator switches. The input from the jfet into the comparator (pin 2) i think is a sine wave, so by varying the reference voltage at pin 3 you can adjust at what point the comparator output switches from high to low output, and hence the duty cycle. From looking at the schematic i think thats how it works, however i could be very wrong!
Steve
Steve
ELSO!
I'm building the second clock of your design for my other player.
What do you think is better resistor,metallised (metal film) or carbon resistors?
I built my first clock with cheap metal film 1% resistors,becouse I have a good stock of them.But maybe carbon resistors willl do better?
I would like to know your opinion.
Bartek
I'm building the second clock of your design for my other player.
What do you think is better resistor,metallised (metal film) or carbon resistors?
I built my first clock with cheap metal film 1% resistors,becouse I have a good stock of them.But maybe carbon resistors willl do better?
I would like to know your opinion.
Bartek
Carbon resistor would fit better
Just what i thought.Non magnetic are better at digital/high frequency signal circuits.
Carbon Resistors in KWAK-CLOCK
Hello, Carbon composition resitors known as Allen Bradly have lower inductance but much higher noise than metalfilm resistors.
Also the stability of the carbon composition is very poor.
I doubt you will hear any difference using a carbon comp. resistor. But you can try. The only position that makes sense to me is the 1k source resitor and the 47 Ohm in the output.😎
zygibajt said:
Just what i thought.Non magnetic are better at digital/high frequency signal circuits.
Hello, Carbon composition resitors known as Allen Bradly have lower inductance but much higher noise than metalfilm resistors.
Also the stability of the carbon composition is very poor.
I doubt you will hear any difference using a carbon comp. resistor. But you can try. The only position that makes sense to me is the 1k source resitor and the 47 Ohm in the output.😎
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