Well not while it was apart. Didn't think of that. Here its making that nice clicking sound when I push in tje button. The other clicks are the protection circuit...I think that's what it's called. I would frequently get nothing when I tried to turn it on or off. It did have a thick rubbery transparent boot around the switch. I cleaned that as well. I used contact cleaner. If there's a next time and I hope there isn't I'll take pictures. The group here is very kind. Afraid to ask questions in so many places due to the trolls but you all are great. Thank you.
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Well, back to square one. Same aymptom started again. Maybe I need to find a smaller amp for parts that uses the switch.
https://www.digikey.de/de/products/detail/e-switch/RR812C1121/2116258?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_New Customer Acquisition&utm_term=&productid=2116258&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-19928079281_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-2116258_sig-EAIaIQobChMI7ZTM9LPxhwMVzJiDBx0xygDkEAQYASABEgKOu_D_BwE&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLlg1SJ_OXK01N3brbqalE_Ay0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ZTM9LPxhwMVzJiDBx0xygDkEAQYASABEgKOu_D_BwE
Replacing parts for equally old parts will keep you busy but usually it is not a good solution if one likes stuff to keep working.
Replacing parts for equally old parts will keep you busy but usually it is not a good solution if one likes stuff to keep working.
I found what I think is the part on EBAY. used but tested. Part number is not what someone else here suggested. They have it listed as c-4176a07p. The entire assembly might be what was suggested but this seems complete.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2966239862...9Ps6yS0QR-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If this is correct I think it is worth a try. ROTEL lists X-1271D06 which is what Rayma had suggested. On the parts list this is the header for what I think is the entire assembly piece by piece. Can anyone confirm this? Rotel did not have this but if c-4176a07p is only one part of the assembly. I don't think I could get all of the parts any longer. The parts list and schematic are listed as a link above. Thank you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2966239862...9Ps6yS0QR-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If this is correct I think it is worth a try. ROTEL lists X-1271D06 which is what Rayma had suggested. On the parts list this is the header for what I think is the entire assembly piece by piece. Can anyone confirm this? Rotel did not have this but if c-4176a07p is only one part of the assembly. I don't think I could get all of the parts any longer. The parts list and schematic are listed as a link above. Thank you.
A lot of money for old stuff. It will give you time to find a second one 😉
Another solution is to look at the type number as written on the switch and find the same one new in box. It is not made by Rotel. Just solder the new one on the PCB and put the Rotel knob on it. If you are lucky enough to find 1 this will work out OK. New/unused is best as these have had their lifetime (when used).
Another solution is to look at the type number as written on the switch and find the same one new in box. It is not made by Rotel. Just solder the new one on the PCB and put the Rotel knob on it. If you are lucky enough to find 1 this will work out OK. New/unused is best as these have had their lifetime (when used).
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https://www.harfington.com/products...2EB6uDnNRzl138lfP2fXrjutlxv8VHtEaAuW9EALw_wcB
This looks similar but i can't know without specs
This looks similar but i can't know without specs
No you better remove your own defective switch (not to be reused again) and write down the type number and the ratings.
Especially the voltage and current ratings.
That switch you found is very alike. It is not a PCB mount version I think!? Does not need to be a problem. Maybe you are lucky. If so then order 2.
Especially the voltage and current ratings.
That switch you found is very alike. It is not a PCB mount version I think!? Does not need to be a problem. Maybe you are lucky. If so then order 2.
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No. Mine ia sealed back up. Will take it apart tomorrow. There are many with different specs that look similar for sale. I can just replace the switch. They're about $10-15. Tomorrow I am off and can look at mine. I did ask the seller on Ebay with that similar switch for more pics. I didn't get them. The one on Ebay now is for rmb 1075 and i believe the make up of the pcb and switch are different. Not even sure if its the switch or the board at this point. I cant just throw parts at it. Will need to get it tested.
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Yes I saw others similar. Some had a different arrangement of the prongs where two back ones were angled and fronts straight. I will take mine apart tomorrow and see. It obviously was not a matter of cleaning. It worked since I last responded on July 20th. Did the same yesterday. It clicks but doesn't do anything to the power. So now it is a bit different and possibly something more? But then why did cleaning work for almost a month. Will need to find a reliable tech in AZ
chrisng found the PCB mount version!
A tech? Why? If it fits and has equal properties just solder it in.
* have you checked the PCB soldered joints? Old stuff sometimes needs a complete overhaul. Old solder joints may have cracks.
A tech? Why? If it fits and has equal properties just solder it in.
* have you checked the PCB soldered joints? Old stuff sometimes needs a complete overhaul. Old solder joints may have cracks.
Well, yeah I will try a new switch first. They're cheap enough. I am just wondering if it's something more. Won't worry about that for now. Tomorrow I will find out. I remember I didn't have much wiggle room. I will likely be back here with pictures! Thanks again.
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When you had the switch dismantled, did you observe any evidence of arcing—- especially on the S1-S2 pole of the power switch?
I note that during turn-on, that section of the switch has easy duty because no current flows until relay RY901 activates about a second later; in contrast, at turn-off, full operating current is broken by the power switch and would likely experience arcing erosion.
This might be failure of the power switch S1-S2 pole. The relay would energize but no power to the PA due to open S1-S2 side of the power switch.
I note that during turn-on, that section of the switch has easy duty because no current flows until relay RY901 activates about a second later; in contrast, at turn-off, full operating current is broken by the power switch and would likely experience arcing erosion.
This might be failure of the power switch S1-S2 pole. The relay would energize but no power to the PA due to open S1-S2 side of the power switch.
According to the schematic, one half of the switch need to pass through high current for the main power transformer. It is not hard to imagine the switch contacts will fail over time, cleaning only can do so much to extends its service life.
Replace the switch and see if that solves the problem, please check the dimension of the KDC-A04 if it fit in the PCB, and since you're in it, it might be a good idea to replace the soft start relay (RY901) as well.
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That’s what switches do. There are even a few current limiting devices in series if I am not mistaking so the switch is spoiled!
Fact may be that the switch was chosen a bit too light or it is just mediocre quality and now worn out. Rotel does not have those in stock anymore which may say something. There are quite some eighties/nineties devices with the same error. Like the power transformer it is one of the more expensive parts so that is where pennies can be saved.
Fact may be that the switch was chosen a bit too light or it is just mediocre quality and now worn out. Rotel does not have those in stock anymore which may say something. There are quite some eighties/nineties devices with the same error. Like the power transformer it is one of the more expensive parts so that is where pennies can be saved.
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