Rotel 855 PICS, dac & opamp question for newbie...

Status
Not open for further replies.
MBK,

Could you point me to the links you mentioned about NOS (non over sampling).

Yeah checked as well at a few shops - the CDM4-19 is out of stock currently - bummer.

Had a buddy of mine remove some of the Black gates and replaced them cerafines (output) and oscons. Aslo got rid of the blue philips caps and dropped in some polystyrol caps. Doing op-amp rolling right now - AD-825 (on LC Audio's type 3 module), BB OPA 2227P, OPA-2604AP, OPA2132P. Also have some OPA 627 but I need to find some brown dog adapters (sigh). Anyone in sg sells these?

Basically this is what he did:

Replaced 4 x100uF/25v BlackGate F with 100uF/20v Oscon SH
replace 2 x100uF/25v BlackGate F with100uF/35v Cerafine (output)
replace 3 x 100uF/25v generic (labelled SME) with 100 uF/ 20v Oscon SH
replaced 1 x 47uF/25v generic (labelled SME) with 47uF/25v Oscon
replaced 2 x 1.0 nF film cap (philips) with 1.15 nF silver mica cap
replaced 2 x 2.2 nF film cap (philips) with 2.2nF polystyrene film and foil
replaced 2 x 2.4nF/ 2 x 5.6nF and 218nF with similar values polystyrene film and foil.

Intend to do the following at a later date:

replace the 4.00 Mhz crystal (ceramic) and replace the 7220 with NOS

BTW I do like what I'm hearing with the OPA 2227p op-amps.
 
Rameish,

seems like the main links don't work anymore. I attach a file I copied from the web, I basically followed that one for my mod.

Well, over the w/e I replaced almost all electrolytic caps (with mostly Sim Lim quality, which is sometimes Elna or Rubycon or Panasonic... and for some values, just generic). Then I added X7R small caps to the TDA1541 decoupling. Added a PSU for my DIY analog stage (JFET I/V and OPA2134 based lowpass, plus DRV134 balanced out). Changed some wiring. Put blue tack on the quartz and grounded it. Installed 3 prong plug with RFI filter. Cleaned the laser and tried to fiddle with its power through a pot I found on the PCB near it (but that didn't give the intended result so I set it back to where it was). Lubed the mechanics of the laser with motorcycle chain wax for the tray and motorcycle oil for the ball bearing. Tried to add a PSU for the +- 9 V pat, but that didn't work - display out - the original PSU must be connected in a specific way and needs the original wiring layout for fuctioning I guess.

Result: still works 😉 ... I like it better than my DVD/CD player with or without MSB Link DAC. Strangely, through headphones I can hardly tell a difference, but through speakers I like the soundstage of the NOS Rotel much better.

Anyway, op amps: I used a lot of 2134 and I like them. I tried 627 for I/V, but my generic prototype board from Sim Lim was probably too soggy, and in spite of my best decoupling efforts it oscillated...
 
Siglap, can arrange... though "souped up" is an euphemism, inside, the thing is more like the band aid king on steroids now 😉

At least I managed to epoxy the eject button that fell off a year ago and the tray now comes out without prying it with fingernails :clown:

May I add my dipoles and Mini-Aleph monoblocks are pretty cool too 😀 . Here I skipped on the band aid and used rivets...

Drop me an e-mail offline...
 

Attachments

  • 2004-04-28-sg01-33mini-aleph2.jpg
    2004-04-28-sg01-33mini-aleph2.jpg
    55.6 KB · Views: 1,010
I bought a Rotel RCD-855 at a local pawn shop. It skips randomly when the analog outs are used. The skips sounds like digital glitches (the CDs are scratch free and clean) rather than skipping forward or backward. However, when I switched from the analog outs to the digital out (to my Musical Fidelity X-24K DAC), it skips much less, but is still has glitches.

I was reading through this thread and several of you appear to be well versed on modding the 855. What do you suggest I look for to repair this player and what simple mods should I do to it?

Thanks in advance.
 
Help! - 855 displays "Error" message

My old 855 was playing ever so faithfully... until yesterday...

Now when I mount a CD, the tray closes, the CD turns very briefly, and I then get the message "ERROR" on the display.

Can any of you suggest ways for me to "trouble shoot" this problem?
 
You could try cleaning the lens by using a dust blower - be gentle and careful. There's a trim pot on the left at the base of the transport mech. Try turning it clockwise a smidgen ( a really tiny bit). If that doesnt looks like you need a new lens.

As for schematic I think I have the RCD855 please send me you email aand I'll email it to you when I find it.
 
Rothko & Leopold54:

I had the same problem on my 855 and can confirm Rameish' advice - you can also try to clean the lens with a isopropyl alcohol cloth (for cleaning glasses etc.) before adjusting the trimpot -- Let's hope you won't need a new lens because they're near impossible to locate; I found one address in Germany that sells used lens assemblies for 80euro's a piece!!!!! Only solution is to buy another cdp with the cdm4.19 transport (several Marantz and Philips units) and insert that one.

I just started a post asking help for adjusting the trimpot to suit the new lens because that's not as easy as it seems either:bawling: :dead:
 
Kilmon,

threre's a trim pot on the left of the transport (turn it anti clockwise all the way) then gradually adjust it till it can read the TOC of a CD (you need to reload the CD each time you adjust) since the cdp need to reread the CD. When to start adjusting it clockwise do so very gradually (like dong final bias adjustments in a tube amp). A smidgen up (clockwise) each time. It's a bit of a slow process not not very hard (you'll need an allen key).

Cheers

Am still looking for the damn schematic.
 
A common fault with this mechanism is a plastic insert where the disc is clamped in position for playback. This insert wears against the centre ballbearing to become indented instead of smooth. This makes rotation of the disc etcentric. It is possible to reposition the insert and stick it with tape so that the bearing presses against a smooth surface. Check this before renewing or adjusting the laser.

Tony
 
Its not totally nesseary to have the schematic......

You should be able to traxe back the output section on the board, and the powersupply. The dac may be too complicated, to do more than damp the chips.

All caps can be swapped, bypassed etc without need of the schem.

if you need ideas have a look at

Generic cd mods on zerogain.com in the articles section at the top of the home page.
 
Who it be worth replacing the blue Philips film caps in the analog stages? I'm a newbie at this hobby and IM just starting out in modding. So please excuse if any ignorance appears in my posts. So far these are the mods I've thought about doing according to the suggestions from this thread.:

1. Change out the film 14 caps around the TDA1541A with something better. Maybe Wima?

2. Change the electrolytics around the digital and various IC's to Panasonic FM's.

3. Change the two Black Gates caps at the very end of the analog stage (don't know if it's in the singal path) to Cerafines or Tonerex or Silmics?

4. Take out the muting transitors.

5. Change the op-amps. I dont know which ones I want to swap in. Can you guys suggest me one? I need a op-amp that can be smooth yet fast.

Would it also be worth replaing the resistors like stated in the site in the previous post? Please let me know if I missed any other mods that are easy enough as the others stated. I really appreciate learning from you guys. Its really thankful.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.