It’s really flexible as to what drivers to use. I like powerful motors with moderately low Qts in 0.4 range. Higher Qts typically will have less controlled bass. Use EQ to go deeper with the lower Qts drivers.
Thanks both. Now I know I want low Fs (below 30 Hz), reasonable Qts and large Xmax. So now my only concern is, how high above the crossover point should the woofer be reasonably flat? The one I looked at (55-2421) is falling off too soon I think - or would that be OK? This woofer seems to be quite good, also as confirmed by Freddi above. Worst case, I think four of these would make a nice pair of subwoofers if they would not work in the KaZba.
fwiw I've heard of folks using the cheap Pyle PPA12 for open baffle work. Its heavy, tragically weak for PA use but might be OK for H-Frame - Kazba duty (?)
I can't find Re , Xmax (nor independent T-S) for PPA12
Goldwood's GW1858 is pretty good for open/H-baffles - low mass, limited xmax but the progressive suspension keeps it from over shooting at higher levels
I can't find Re , Xmax (nor independent T-S) for PPA12
Goldwood's GW1858 is pretty good for open/H-baffles - low mass, limited xmax but the progressive suspension keeps it from over shooting at higher levels
X and freddi,
As X knows, I have a 2 pairs of 6.5" Dayton DC160's 4 ohm drivers looking for a home. Can I make a KaZba with 2 of these. Would require a series x-over to get to 8 ohm. Let me know your thoughts please.
Regards,
MM
As X knows, I have a 2 pairs of 6.5" Dayton DC160's 4 ohm drivers looking for a home. Can I make a KaZba with 2 of these. Would require a series x-over to get to 8 ohm. Let me know your thoughts please.
Regards,
MM
I think so - but XRK971 can give a more complete answer
here's a small H-frame with a series pair
I'd like to hear X's view of what the two (one inverted) K-apertures can do
versus just a diagonal baffle board to divide the cabinet into two equal chambers.
here's a small H-frame with a series pair
I'd like to hear X's view of what the two (one inverted) K-apertures can do
versus just a diagonal baffle board to divide the cabinet into two equal chambers.
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I don’t think 6.5in drivers are big enough to use for a dipole bass speaker. Maybe 4 of them is series parallel.
As far what the aperture does, there might be some advantage as to cone loading. If you put an aperture on the front, it will increase velocity and give more efficiency. Leave back open and it will asymmetrically be more sensitive on the front side. I got that idea from revisiting the SLOB speaker. Slot loaded open baffle.
As far what the aperture does, there might be some advantage as to cone loading. If you put an aperture on the front, it will increase velocity and give more efficiency. Leave back open and it will asymmetrically be more sensitive on the front side. I got that idea from revisiting the SLOB speaker. Slot loaded open baffle.
FWIW - what hornresp says for a regular symmetric H-baffle, two drivers in series, 2 pi at nominal 10 watts input to hit Xmax around Fs - dunno if would be this strong or not (?)
X, freddi,
I do not need these for powerful bass. I am just thinking mid bass, as they would be used for music, so maybe 40 to 60+ Hz worth of bass required. Will mate with a suitable tweeter. Thoughts?
MM
I do not need these for powerful bass. I am just thinking mid bass, as they would be used for music, so maybe 40 to 60+ Hz worth of bass required. Will mate with a suitable tweeter. Thoughts?
MM
Open baffle bass won’t reach low without EQ or a large baffle. I think 50Hz is more realistic. Speakers that can do 40Hz without a ported design are special.
Hi X,
Are we talking about the same speaker that you made starting on the page 1 of this thread: the Kazba with the K front and back aperture, I really don't want an open baffle with opposing 6.5" drivers.
MM
Are we talking about the same speaker that you made starting on the page 1 of this thread: the Kazba with the K front and back aperture, I really don't want an open baffle with opposing 6.5" drivers.
MM
X,
After reading a few pages back, I see where you explained to a member that 6" drivers are no good for a Kazba. You did mention that they possibly could work in a Karlsonator. Has anybody built a Karsonator with 2 6.5" drivers, and could they be wired in series for 8 ohms. Sorry to waste your time with the Kazba inquiries.
MM
After reading a few pages back, I see where you explained to a member that 6" drivers are no good for a Kazba. You did mention that they possibly could work in a Karlsonator. Has anybody built a Karsonator with 2 6.5" drivers, and could they be wired in series for 8 ohms. Sorry to waste your time with the Kazba inquiries.
MM
No worries Myles. I have seen dual 5in PA130-8 drivers. I could run a simulation for you what drivers are you considering?
hi X - think his woofers are:
Def_Driver DC160*4 6*1/2" Classic Woofer | Dayton Sd=136.80 Xmax 3.4mm
Re = 3.4
fs = 39.00
Qts=0.43
Qms=3.31
Qes=0.49
Le=0.99mH
Mms=29.2g
Vas=15.58L
Def_Driver DC160*4 6*1/2" Classic Woofer | Dayton Sd=136.80 Xmax 3.4mm
Re = 3.4
fs = 39.00
Qts=0.43
Qms=3.31
Qes=0.49
Le=0.99mH
Mms=29.2g
Vas=15.58L
You are correct freddi.
X, when you have some time, please run a simulation for what I would need for a Karlsonator.
Thank you,
MM
X, when you have some time, please run a simulation for what I would need for a Karlsonator.
Thank you,
MM
It is OK. I will be using a separate tweeter on top of K cabinet, so it will be a kind of 2 way. Make sense?
MM
MM
Hi X,
Any luck with the dual DC160 woofer Karlsonator design yet. It would be nice to know if a dual 6.5" woofer can work and what the dimensions of the box will be. Will decide what I want to do with the tweeter later. I am going to need help with a x-over if the design will work. What software are you using for X-over design?
Regards
MM
Any luck with the dual DC160 woofer Karlsonator design yet. It would be nice to know if a dual 6.5" woofer can work and what the dimensions of the box will be. Will decide what I want to do with the tweeter later. I am going to need help with a x-over if the design will work. What software are you using for X-over design?
Regards
MM
Thanks for reminding me. Sorry have not had a chance to work on it yet. Had a couple of deadlines to deal with this week. Let me look at it tonight.
Hi Kokanee,
I just ran a simulation with those drivers and it doesn't look good. This was an 8in wide x 8in deep x 15in tall box. The drivers are 4ohms so in parallel they present a load as low as 1.9ohms to the amp. Can your amp drive 2ohm loads. But the characteristic response from a Kazba with these drivers and a smallish box like this doesn't look good. There is a huge overshoot peak at 400Hz and the bass falls of by -30dB at 100Hz. It just won't work. You are better off making some bass reflex subs or maybe a dual XKi sub with them.
I just ran a simulation with those drivers and it doesn't look good. This was an 8in wide x 8in deep x 15in tall box. The drivers are 4ohms so in parallel they present a load as low as 1.9ohms to the amp. Can your amp drive 2ohm loads. But the characteristic response from a Kazba with these drivers and a smallish box like this doesn't look good. There is a huge overshoot peak at 400Hz and the bass falls of by -30dB at 100Hz. It just won't work. You are better off making some bass reflex subs or maybe a dual XKi sub with them.
