Both outputs are fluctuating of the 358. Looking a pin 1 with scope is jumping to 10 volts and dropping, trying to look at pin 1 with dmm can't do. Pin 7 is at .89v looking at it with dmm
Touch pins 3 and 4 (with your finger should be enough). Does that keep pin 1 down?
You may need to pull the 358 to see if there are any more traces or if the voltages change.
You may need to pull the 358 to see if there are any more traces or if the voltages change.
Hold on Perry, I missed soldering a resistor back in, taking voltages again of 358
1. 0
2. 8.5 fluctuating up and down a little
3. 1.9 to 2.1 fluctuating
4. 0
5. 2.47
6. 3.3 to3.4
7. 02 to 05
8 12.1
1. 0
2. 8.5 fluctuating up and down a little
3. 1.9 to 2.1 fluctuating
4. 0
5. 2.47
6. 3.3 to3.4
7. 02 to 05
8 12.1
Learning to draw is part of it if you want to make your life easier. Don't necessarily try to draw everything, just as much as you need. Many times, if you can find something close, like the AQ diagrams, you can just mark them in the PDF with the different circuit board designations/circuit paths and save them as a different file name.
Is the amp still in protect with the voltages above?
Your meter isn't as fast as your scope, is the pulsing on the scope, approximately what you'd expect from the meter readings?
Is the amp still in protect with the voltages above?
Your meter isn't as fast as your scope, is the pulsing on the scope, approximately what you'd expect from the meter readings?
It is still in protect. Its back to flashing red and blue. I now only have a resistor and diode unsoldered. Both coming off pin 3 of 358.
It is fluctuating on scope about as fast and meter is. Especially looking at graph on meter back and forth.
It is fluctuating on scope about as fast and meter is. Especially looking at graph on meter back and forth.
Drawing the schematics, are say to take a schematic and like load it into paint. Then make changes or is there a better program. I will get it.
If you're going to markup an existing diagram, load it in something like PDF exchange editor and save it as whatever you'd like (don't mark it until you save it as a different named file).
In PDF EE, you can draw lines, add text, photos... Whatever you need to do.
I don't have a good program to use for diagrams but you want something where you can add whatever you want to add and it has a grid you can snap to to keep things neat. If you may think you'd like to simulate circuits, a circuit simulator may interest you. Something like TI's simulator may work for you. If someone else has a suggestion. feel free to post it.
If you can bear to use paint (yuk), paint.net (name of program) may interest you. It's FAR better than paint but still a bit strange to use.
In PDF EE, you can draw lines, add text, photos... Whatever you need to do.
I don't have a good program to use for diagrams but you want something where you can add whatever you want to add and it has a grid you can snap to to keep things neat. If you may think you'd like to simulate circuits, a circuit simulator may interest you. Something like TI's simulator may work for you. If someone else has a suggestion. feel free to post it.
If you can bear to use paint (yuk), paint.net (name of program) may interest you. It's FAR better than paint but still a bit strange to use.
Perry if I am not mistaken if I have a voltage on a cap on the positive side I shouldn't have it on the neg side correct? Wouldn't that indicate a leaky cap. I am talking about electrolytic caps. Suppose to block dc voltage, correct?
Electrolytics will sometimes leak slightly but when the voltage is drained off, it should leak back slowly. Many times, the voltage is just the non-supply side following the power supply side and when discharged, will remain discharged.
After searching some more Perry, found a jumper going to the audio section. Removed that jumper and then I had 10v on pin 1 again, but I could touch pins 3 and 4 with my finger and voltage would drop to 0 on pin 1
If touching pin 3 and 4 drops the output to 0v, the 358 is likely fine. Reinstall the components you initially removed and only disconnect the jumper you just found. Does that allow the amp to power up?