Did you perform the tests recommended in the previous post?
The resistor is likely part of a snubber. They often run hot but if it's far too hot to touch, the capacitor connected in series with it may be shorted.
The resistor is likely part of a snubber. They often run hot but if it's far too hot to touch, the capacitor connected in series with it may be shorted.
hi i did the tests in the previous post like u said testing all op amps they all check fine the cap u said is a 822j wondering what is the value of that cap or can i put a different rating in please let me know thanks
The value is 82 and 2 zeros in pico farads. The J is the tolerance (j = ±5%). If it has no voltage rating, it's generally a 50v cap.
8200 picofarads = 8.2nF or 0.0082uF.
If it's not shorted, it doesn't need to be replaced.
8200 picofarads = 8.2nF or 0.0082uF.
If it's not shorted, it doesn't need to be replaced.
A friend brought me a 1001bd to check out. I checked the temperature of the resistor on this one. It ran very hot but neither the board nor the resistor showed signs of heat related damage so this is probably normal.
u said the resistor runs very hot and its probably normal wondering would it still run hot with no outputs 6215 and 3415's installed and no signal hooked up just power ground remote and the resistor gets very hot with in like 5 to 10 secs i checked the cap wasent shorted then i traced the signal to the stpr15's they checked fine after that not sure what to check if anything
yes thats the one im talking about ill put the outputs back in it today and see what it does hopefully its fixed i found that that cap next to the bank of black caps the redish color one had a broken lead on it so i replaced it hopefully thats why i was getting flutter through the speaker
i put the outputs back in and powerd up the amp stupid thing does the same thing speaker flutter lm3337 and 317's get real hot after about 2 or 3 mins of the amp playing im gonna check the op amps again to make sure none are bad but does anyoe know what pin i put the black lead on the tlo72c to get the right readigs and also the lm6171 's also any help would greatly be appericated i tryed looking up datasheets but my comp just locks up when i try to look up the pin order
all of the 337 and 317's get real hot theres 3 of each in the amp and all of them get real hot within 3 mins with no signal hooked up just power ground and remote ad when i try to test one of the surface mount tlo72's the torrriod hiss's at me wondering where i go from here i touched black lead on pin 4 of the tlo72 the surface mount ones to get readings hopefully did that right because pin 1 doesnt give me annnd reading wondering where i might try to find the problem next what to test
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1093867#post1093867
Go back to this post and test the op-amps listed.
Try to keep your leads away from the toroids (power supply and output) when testing. If the leads are draped over either, there may be enough induced voltage that it could cause problems.
If that doesn't help, use the chassis ground as a reference and calculate the difference between the two inputs to the op-amp. Touch the black lead to ground before touching the red lead to the op-amp input.
If it takes 3 minutes for the regs to get hot and they are all about the same temperature, I doubt that there's a problem. The two sets near the 3415s and 6215s will probably run a bit hotter.
If you can get your leads to the input pins of the regs (or to something connected to the input pins - like the byv-27 diodes), you can check to see that the input voltage is not above ~25 volts. I'm sure it's not too high because the filter caps would probably show signs of overheating. If the voltage is too high, that could cause the regs to run hotter than normal but that's not a common problem.
Go back to this post and test the op-amps listed.
Try to keep your leads away from the toroids (power supply and output) when testing. If the leads are draped over either, there may be enough induced voltage that it could cause problems.
If that doesn't help, use the chassis ground as a reference and calculate the difference between the two inputs to the op-amp. Touch the black lead to ground before touching the red lead to the op-amp input.
If it takes 3 minutes for the regs to get hot and they are all about the same temperature, I doubt that there's a problem. The two sets near the 3415s and 6215s will probably run a bit hotter.
If you can get your leads to the input pins of the regs (or to something connected to the input pins - like the byv-27 diodes), you can check to see that the input voltage is not above ~25 volts. I'm sure it's not too high because the filter caps would probably show signs of overheating. If the voltage is too high, that could cause the regs to run hotter than normal but that's not a common problem.
hi im almost done with this amp finally but there is one part missing on board the board location is fb1 rockford said there descripion is a dual ferrite feed prep it looks just like a resistor lead with 2 black plastic pieces around it wondering can i just solder a piece of wire to that or do i need that part?? rockford said it was 2500 plus shipping for that lil part if someone could help me out i would greatly appericate it
If Rockford can't/won't supply the part, the best option may be to salvage one from another BD amp.
The part is used to reduce RFI. It's not too critical but if you use a different part as a replacement, you should replace two others. There are three transistors operating in parallel. All three should have the same resistance in series with them. Using a different part for only one transistor could cause undue stress on one or more of the three parallel transistors.
The part is used to reduce RFI. It's not too critical but if you use a different part as a replacement, you should replace two others. There are three transistors operating in parallel. All three should have the same resistance in series with them. Using a different part for only one transistor could cause undue stress on one or more of the three parallel transistors.
thanks perry for all your help 1 last question before this amp is done i orderd the 15 ohm resistors from digikey and they sent me 15 ohm with a 1% tolerance instead of 5% wondering will theese work?
It's always OK to use a 1% component in place of a 5% component. The original resistors were likely 1% components.
ok i cant figure out whats wrong with this stupid amp i put new 6215's and 3415's in this thing and new 15 ohm resistors power it on and makes my power supply jump way up drawing way to much current so i pulled all the fets off and pulled the resistors back off and try to power it up same thing needle jumps so i checked the fets on the other side all seem to be fine checked the a 06 and 56 checked the 317 and 337's checked the diode all seem fine wondering what do i check next
The problem is likely in the power supply. 'Generally' if there is a problem in the audio section that's causing excessive current draw, the amp will shut down the audio drive and the power supply will continue to operate.
If you power it up through a 2 ohm current limiting resistor, does the gate waveform look good? The right/falling edge of the gate waveform should be a straight vertical line and should go all of the way to ground. Check it on the gate leg of the FET, not on the gate resistor.
If you power it up through a 2 ohm current limiting resistor, does the gate waveform look good? The right/falling edge of the gate waveform should be a straight vertical line and should go all of the way to ground. Check it on the gate leg of the FET, not on the gate resistor.
hi, just wondering, are you still getting dc on the output terminals for both channels? + or - ?
that 2150sx perry helped me fix had an open resistor and bad tantulum tied into the ground plain on one of the opamps, a couple of the predrivers were also bad.
just wanted to suggest looking in a couple places you wouldnt expect....as i didnt expect the predrive/drive section would cause dc output.
that 2150sx perry helped me fix had an open resistor and bad tantulum tied into the ground plain on one of the opamps, a couple of the predrivers were also bad.
just wanted to suggest looking in a couple places you wouldnt expect....as i didnt expect the predrive/drive section would cause dc output.
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